How to: Clutch replacement
06-26-2004, 10:40 AM
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How to: Clutch replacement
THis is not a complete write up you will need a manual to do this job
I changed my clutch recently and had decided to do a write up for those who don't have a helms or a fsm. After completing the job, i wouldn't recommend that anyone (without experience) tackle this job without the manual. The diagrams in the manual were a huge help, especially when trying to locate some of the bolts. I also had a friend there to help( iluvdrt), which if you are doing this with the engine in the car i would say it is required. This write up is more so you know what is involved and what you are getting yourself into. So here goes......
I would recommend you purchase something similar too a craftsmen 256 pc. mechanics tool set to complete this job but I'll do my best too write out all the tools i used.
I'll write in the size of the bolts and any other tools i can remember on each step.
1. Disconnect the battery cables and battery tie down, then remove the battery and tray. i used a 10 mm open/closed wrench for this step
2. Now you need to remove the battery base and base stay. There are 6 12 mm bolts and 2 10 mm bolts. I also used a 12 in extension when removing the base bolts.
3. Now remove the strut bar ( if you have one) and intake, if you have an after market CAI you will need to loosen the splash guard to remove the filter. I used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the clamps used with my aem CAI.
4. If you have an after market intake you may be able to skip this step. Remove the intake control vacuum tank and bracket. there are a total of 4 10 mm bolts between the bracket and tank itself. I didn't know this could be removed when i installed my CAI so thats why it was still there. If you are removing it for good you will need to plug the corresponding vacuum line on the im.
5. Now you need to remove the wiring harness and connectors from the tranny and starter. For this step i used a 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets and or wrench.
5A. wiring harness clamp
5B. tranny ground an starter motor cable stay
5C. starter cables
5D. Back up light switch connectors
5E. Starter removal
6. Now you need to shift the tranny into reverse and then remove the cable brackets and cables from the tranny. I used a 12mm deep well socket and needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pins.
6A. cable brackets
6B. cable removal
7. Now you need to remove the vss from the tranny , do not remove the hoses. i used a 10 MM socket for this. there is also an elec plug on top of the vss.
8.Now you need to remove the slave cylinder and lines, which requires a 12mm and 10mmm socket. There are 2 bolts that bolt the slave cylinder to the tranny and 2 to hold the lines in place.
9. jack the front of the car and support it with jack stands
10. remove the drain plug and drain the tranny fluid. this step requires a 3/8 in ratchet.
11.now remove the rear engine mount bracket stay from the tranny, this step requires a 14 mm socket
12. now you need to release the suspension. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut ( 19 mm) on both sides . Air tools help.
12A. remove the damper fork bolt ( both sides) this step requires a 17 mm wrench and/or 17mmm socket or another 17mmm wrench
12B. Remove the passenger side radius rod from the lca ( 17mm) and the cross member ( 17mm deep well socket)
13. now you need to remove both axles from the tranny and remove the intermediate shaft. IIRC the intermediate shaft bolts were 17 mm. Pry the cv axle inner casings from the tranny and intermediate shaft.
14. now remove the center beam, these bolts were 14mm
15. remove the front engine stiffener and clutch cover. the front engine stiffener uses 14 mm bolts and the clucth cover uses 10mm
16. remove the rear beam stiffener IIRC they used 17mm bolts. You may also need to remove the intake manifold bracket stay to access one of the rear beam bolts but i got around it.
17. remove the rear engine mount bracket bolts
18. place a floor jack under the tranny and support its weight. take care not to damage the housing, i used a block of wood.
19. now you need to remove the tranny mount and bracket. the through bolt is a 17mm and all others were 14 mm ( IIRC). it is neccesary to separate the mount from the bracket.
20. remove the 2 upper tranny mounting bolts.
21. remove the 3 lower mounting bolts.
22. now pull the tranny away from the engine until it clears the main shaft. Once you've cleared the main shaft remove it from the car. This was a pain in the *** and requires some finagling (sp?)
23. now i cleaned the tranny housing and the inside of clutch housing. i used simple green and a pressure washer. be sure to remove all the dirt/grime and clutch fibers from the inside of the clucth housing. take care not to let water in the tranny. i plug the diff holes/etc. with rags. you can now also remove the old release bearing.
24. now you can remove the pressure plate and clutch. i believe the pressure plate bolts were 12mm.
25.now you need to remove the flywheel for resurfacing, remove the bolts in several steps in a crisscross pattern. i also recommend having a rear main seal on hand to replace if yours is leaking.
26. take your flywheel to a machine shop for resurfacing.
NOTE: Reassembly is the most critical part and the main reason i suggest having the manual on hand. As i won't be able to detail the process as well as the manual could. A helms or a FSM can be purchased for around 60.00 dollars. You can also try ebay for the FSM on cd-rom, prices are roughly 5.00 dollars.
27. now you are ready for reassembly, use the steps outlined in your manual for the flywheel, release bearing and clutch/pressure plate reassembly. you will need a few special tools to complete this step.
28. once everything is reassembled you can reverse the steps and put your car back together.
Once again I DO NOT RECOMMEND you tackle this job without a helms or FSM. Which is why i didn't even try to type out the installation process of the flywheel, clutch, etc. We did this in Iluvdrt's driveway ( see pic below) and it wasn't much fun. i would say it was well worth the 400.00 dollars a local shop wanted to charge me. But the knowledge i gained of my car was priceless. It would be considerably easier to tackle this job in a shop with lift. Thanks to Iluvdrt ( ozzy) , i definitely couldn't have done this job without his help.
Disclaimer: the author claims no responsibility for any damage incurred by the use of this write-up. Go buy a damn manual.
Modified by Behan at 11:24 AM 6/28/2004
Modified by Behan at 11:33 AM 6/28/2004
I changed my clutch recently and had decided to do a write up for those who don't have a helms or a fsm. After completing the job, i wouldn't recommend that anyone (without experience) tackle this job without the manual. The diagrams in the manual were a huge help, especially when trying to locate some of the bolts. I also had a friend there to help( iluvdrt), which if you are doing this with the engine in the car i would say it is required. This write up is more so you know what is involved and what you are getting yourself into. So here goes......
I would recommend you purchase something similar too a craftsmen 256 pc. mechanics tool set to complete this job but I'll do my best too write out all the tools i used.
I'll write in the size of the bolts and any other tools i can remember on each step.
1. Disconnect the battery cables and battery tie down, then remove the battery and tray. i used a 10 mm open/closed wrench for this step
2. Now you need to remove the battery base and base stay. There are 6 12 mm bolts and 2 10 mm bolts. I also used a 12 in extension when removing the base bolts.
3. Now remove the strut bar ( if you have one) and intake, if you have an after market CAI you will need to loosen the splash guard to remove the filter. I used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the clamps used with my aem CAI.
4. If you have an after market intake you may be able to skip this step. Remove the intake control vacuum tank and bracket. there are a total of 4 10 mm bolts between the bracket and tank itself. I didn't know this could be removed when i installed my CAI so thats why it was still there. If you are removing it for good you will need to plug the corresponding vacuum line on the im.
5. Now you need to remove the wiring harness and connectors from the tranny and starter. For this step i used a 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets and or wrench.
5A. wiring harness clamp
5B. tranny ground an starter motor cable stay
5C. starter cables
5D. Back up light switch connectors
5E. Starter removal
6. Now you need to shift the tranny into reverse and then remove the cable brackets and cables from the tranny. I used a 12mm deep well socket and needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pins.
6A. cable brackets
6B. cable removal
7. Now you need to remove the vss from the tranny , do not remove the hoses. i used a 10 MM socket for this. there is also an elec plug on top of the vss.
8.Now you need to remove the slave cylinder and lines, which requires a 12mm and 10mmm socket. There are 2 bolts that bolt the slave cylinder to the tranny and 2 to hold the lines in place.
9. jack the front of the car and support it with jack stands
10. remove the drain plug and drain the tranny fluid. this step requires a 3/8 in ratchet.
11.now remove the rear engine mount bracket stay from the tranny, this step requires a 14 mm socket
12. now you need to release the suspension. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut ( 19 mm) on both sides . Air tools help.
12A. remove the damper fork bolt ( both sides) this step requires a 17 mm wrench and/or 17mmm socket or another 17mmm wrench
12B. Remove the passenger side radius rod from the lca ( 17mm) and the cross member ( 17mm deep well socket)
13. now you need to remove both axles from the tranny and remove the intermediate shaft. IIRC the intermediate shaft bolts were 17 mm. Pry the cv axle inner casings from the tranny and intermediate shaft.
14. now remove the center beam, these bolts were 14mm
15. remove the front engine stiffener and clutch cover. the front engine stiffener uses 14 mm bolts and the clucth cover uses 10mm
16. remove the rear beam stiffener IIRC they used 17mm bolts. You may also need to remove the intake manifold bracket stay to access one of the rear beam bolts but i got around it.
17. remove the rear engine mount bracket bolts
18. place a floor jack under the tranny and support its weight. take care not to damage the housing, i used a block of wood.
19. now you need to remove the tranny mount and bracket. the through bolt is a 17mm and all others were 14 mm ( IIRC). it is neccesary to separate the mount from the bracket.
20. remove the 2 upper tranny mounting bolts.
21. remove the 3 lower mounting bolts.
22. now pull the tranny away from the engine until it clears the main shaft. Once you've cleared the main shaft remove it from the car. This was a pain in the *** and requires some finagling (sp?)
23. now i cleaned the tranny housing and the inside of clutch housing. i used simple green and a pressure washer. be sure to remove all the dirt/grime and clutch fibers from the inside of the clucth housing. take care not to let water in the tranny. i plug the diff holes/etc. with rags. you can now also remove the old release bearing.
24. now you can remove the pressure plate and clutch. i believe the pressure plate bolts were 12mm.
25.now you need to remove the flywheel for resurfacing, remove the bolts in several steps in a crisscross pattern. i also recommend having a rear main seal on hand to replace if yours is leaking.
26. take your flywheel to a machine shop for resurfacing.
NOTE: Reassembly is the most critical part and the main reason i suggest having the manual on hand. As i won't be able to detail the process as well as the manual could. A helms or a FSM can be purchased for around 60.00 dollars. You can also try ebay for the FSM on cd-rom, prices are roughly 5.00 dollars.
27. now you are ready for reassembly, use the steps outlined in your manual for the flywheel, release bearing and clutch/pressure plate reassembly. you will need a few special tools to complete this step.
28. once everything is reassembled you can reverse the steps and put your car back together.
Once again I DO NOT RECOMMEND you tackle this job without a helms or FSM. Which is why i didn't even try to type out the installation process of the flywheel, clutch, etc. We did this in Iluvdrt's driveway ( see pic below) and it wasn't much fun. i would say it was well worth the 400.00 dollars a local shop wanted to charge me. But the knowledge i gained of my car was priceless. It would be considerably easier to tackle this job in a shop with lift. Thanks to Iluvdrt ( ozzy) , i definitely couldn't have done this job without his help.
Disclaimer: the author claims no responsibility for any damage incurred by the use of this write-up. Go buy a damn manual.
Modified by Behan at 11:24 AM 6/28/2004
Modified by Behan at 11:33 AM 6/28/2004
06-26-2004, 03:03 PM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (Speedra500)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speedra500 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up, and also you should think about cleaning under the hood every once in a while 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
really?
I live on a dirt road so anytime it rains the engine compartment gets covered in that crap. i don't have the stock splashguard , the first time i needed to flush the coolant i found it torn and tied on with a string.
Besides, its not a show car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>really?
I live on a dirt road so anytime it rains the engine compartment gets covered in that crap. i don't have the stock splashguard , the first time i needed to flush the coolant i found it torn and tied on with a string.
Besides, its not a show car.
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06-26-2004, 03:18 PM
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Re: (PetroGuyX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PetroGuyX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">real nice write up... what would you do if it randomly started raining? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats funny you mentioned that, we stopped after getting the tranny bolted back on because it was getting dark. About 20 mins after we got everything cleaned up it started to pour.
just check the weather before you change it in the driveway.
thats funny you mentioned that, we stopped after getting the tranny bolted back on because it was getting dark. About 20 mins after we got everything cleaned up it started to pour.
just check the weather before you change it in the driveway.
06-26-2004, 05:17 PM
#14
Re: How to: Clutch replacement (SKDRCR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome write up Steve, you gotta little somethin on ya
grease ownz j00 </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not Steve in that pic.
grease ownz j00
</TD></TR></TABLE>That's not Steve in that pic.
06-26-2004, 05:25 PM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (Behan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Behan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Once again I DO NOT RECOMMEND you tackle this job without a helms or FSM. Which is why i didn't even try to type out the installation process of the flywheel, clutch, etc. We did this in Iluvdrt's driveway ( see pic below) and it wasn't much fun. i would say it was well worth the 400.00 dollars a local shop wanted to charge me. But the knowledge i gained of my car was priceless. It would be considerably easier to tackle this job in a shop with lift. Thanks to Iluvdrt ( ozzy) , i definitely couldn't have done this job without his help.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
awesome write-up steve!
one thing i would like to mention because i have done this before. and this was my downfall. LABEL ALL YOUR ******* BOLTS WHEN YOU TAKE THEM OUT!!!!!!
i did mine (00 SH) 98% by myself. took me 2.5 days with a lift. it was the largest task i had ever occured with a car.
my bestfriend helped me twist the tranny out, and then put it back in. probably could have gotten it done a lot faster with him there. HAVE A FRIEND HELP!
Once again I DO NOT RECOMMEND you tackle this job without a helms or FSM. Which is why i didn't even try to type out the installation process of the flywheel, clutch, etc. We did this in Iluvdrt's driveway ( see pic below) and it wasn't much fun. i would say it was well worth the 400.00 dollars a local shop wanted to charge me. But the knowledge i gained of my car was priceless. It would be considerably easier to tackle this job in a shop with lift. Thanks to Iluvdrt ( ozzy) , i definitely couldn't have done this job without his help.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
awesome write-up steve!
one thing i would like to mention because i have done this before. and this was my downfall. LABEL ALL YOUR ******* BOLTS WHEN YOU TAKE THEM OUT!!!!!!
i did mine (00 SH) 98% by myself. took me 2.5 days with a lift. it was the largest task i had ever occured with a car.
my bestfriend helped me twist the tranny out, and then put it back in. probably could have gotten it done a lot faster with him there. HAVE A FRIEND HELP!
06-27-2004, 05:15 AM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (Shakes)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's not Steve in that pic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats ozzy, (iluvdrt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shakes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
one thing i would like to mention because i have done this before. and this was my downfall. LABEL ALL YOUR ******* BOLTS WHEN YOU TAKE THEM OUT!!!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great point Doug, thats an especially good idea if you not going to be completeing it in one day. We spent alot of time trying different bolts to find the right ones.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Qfactor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good pics. and write up. and while you're in there replace the rear main seal and axle oil seals </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Behan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
25.now you need to remove the flywheel for resurfacing, remove the bolts in several steps in a crisscross pattern. i also recommend having a rear main seal on hand to replace if yours is leaking.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not Steve in that pic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats ozzy, (iluvdrt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shakes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
one thing i would like to mention because i have done this before. and this was my downfall. LABEL ALL YOUR ******* BOLTS WHEN YOU TAKE THEM OUT!!!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great point Doug, thats an especially good idea if you not going to be completeing it in one day. We spent alot of time trying different bolts to find the right ones.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Qfactor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good pics. and write up. and while you're in there replace the rear main seal and axle oil seals </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Behan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
25.now you need to remove the flywheel for resurfacing, remove the bolts in several steps in a crisscross pattern. i also recommend having a rear main seal on hand to replace if yours is leaking.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
06-29-2004, 05:37 AM
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Re: (PetroGuyX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PetroGuyX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">real nice write up... what would you do if it randomly started raining? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
simple.
put everything into your buddies station wagon, close the hood, and drink rum and coke all night.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great stuff
it looks like some dirt on your face makes you happy </TD></TR></TABLE>
hence the screen name.
BTW, nice job on the write-up steve, i think you know it still needs one more pic.
simple.
put everything into your buddies station wagon, close the hood, and drink rum and coke all night.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great stuff
it looks like some dirt on your face makes you happy </TD></TR></TABLE>
hence the screen name.
BTW, nice job on the write-up steve, i think you know it still needs one more pic.
06-29-2004, 12:07 PM
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Re: (iluvdrt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iluvdrt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, nice job on the write-up steve, i think you know it still needs one more pic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
a before pic?
BTW, nice job on the write-up steve, i think you know it still needs one more pic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>a before pic?
06-29-2004, 12:54 PM
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Re: (Daboi630)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daboi630 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a before pic? </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, nope, not a before pic. i'll post it later.
a before pic?
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol, nope, not a before pic. i'll post it later.
06-29-2004, 02:58 PM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (stubh22a4)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stubh22a4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another good write up ill make sure to save this one </TD></TR></TABLE>
saved both of em
your the man behan
ill make sure to save this one </TD></TR></TABLE>saved both of em
your the man behan
06-30-2004, 10:21 AM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (Ludinitup)
Thanks for the good writeup and pics! It looks like you may have a slow oil leak under there somewhere, going by the oil/dirt accumulation. I have pulled several prelude trannies, and I do things a little differently:
- leave the power cable attached to the starter, and just set the starter where the battery was
- only separate right (passenger) knuckle
- leave that axle in the knuckle, but pull the inner joint from the tranny
- take out the three bolts on the intermediate shaft, but leave the joint attached (there is enough room to take it out of the tranny when the tranny is loosened from the block)
These steps basically save a little time. I agree, the "finagling" part can be a pain; I've found that if you keep the differential side pushed up until the last minute it will go much smoother. That end is heavy, and the tranny wants to rotate on the mainshaft once you get it back from the block a bit. This tends to drop the differential, and the finagling begins. Try to move it straight away from the block, and drop the front part first. Usually goes fairly smooth that way.
Also, when filling the tranny with oil again, a gear oil bottle with the pointy cone shaped cap works really well. Actually, all you really need is the cone shaped cap, because it will usually screw onto any regular plastic oil bottle. Anyway, the tranny takes 2qt, so just pour the oil into the gear oil bottle and fill the tranny through the vent hole on the top. Put your finger on the tip of the bottle, invert it and put it into the vent. Squeeze, then release and the bottle will suck air back out of the tranny and make room for more oil. So, just squeeze, relax a few times, then repeat for the 2nd quart. Much easier than trying to fill the tranny from the bottom, and no mess. hth...
- leave the power cable attached to the starter, and just set the starter where the battery was
- only separate right (passenger) knuckle
- leave that axle in the knuckle, but pull the inner joint from the tranny
- take out the three bolts on the intermediate shaft, but leave the joint attached (there is enough room to take it out of the tranny when the tranny is loosened from the block)
These steps basically save a little time. I agree, the "finagling" part can be a pain; I've found that if you keep the differential side pushed up until the last minute it will go much smoother. That end is heavy, and the tranny wants to rotate on the mainshaft once you get it back from the block a bit. This tends to drop the differential, and the finagling begins. Try to move it straight away from the block, and drop the front part first. Usually goes fairly smooth that way.
Also, when filling the tranny with oil again, a gear oil bottle with the pointy cone shaped cap works really well. Actually, all you really need is the cone shaped cap, because it will usually screw onto any regular plastic oil bottle. Anyway, the tranny takes 2qt, so just pour the oil into the gear oil bottle and fill the tranny through the vent hole on the top. Put your finger on the tip of the bottle, invert it and put it into the vent. Squeeze, then release and the bottle will suck air back out of the tranny and make room for more oil. So, just squeeze, relax a few times, then repeat for the 2nd quart. Much easier than trying to fill the tranny from the bottom, and no mess. hth...
06-30-2004, 04:03 PM
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Re: How to: Clutch replacement (flyrod)
Another useful tip so you don't waste money.. If your old clutch disc wasn't demolished before you changed your clutch then there's no need to get the flywheel resurfaced. It's pretty simple, just feel the friction surface and if it's not nice and smooth get it resurfaced.
Also, the pressure plate bolts are 12 point 10mm bolts. Make sure you have a helms manual for torqueing the important bolts down like the flywheel and pp bolts.
-Mike
Also, the pressure plate bolts are 12 point 10mm bolts. Make sure you have a helms manual for torqueing the important bolts down like the flywheel and pp bolts.
-Mike
