nexgen91

Ok so I bought a B18C(R) on the first of October and had it swapped into my car within the warranty period which was 30 days, on the 30th of October I contacted the vendor about the issues I began to experiance with the engine. I will post the email traffic below but to sum it up the vendor sent me some parts to try to fix the problem, one of which temporarly worked (slightly) but here it is two months later and the engine is still not runnung. Im not sure what my next step should be as I have been very patient with the vendor and flat out asked for a refund and was denied. I spent a lot of monney purchasing the swap and changing out the items that they had to be swapped for it to be covered under warranty and you will see their reply below. Should I take this to my credit card company or cut my loses, or is there another option Im unaware of??


Here is the email traffic:
nexgen91
Oct 30
to Sales
Hey I got the swap in and changed everything that teh warranty statement said to change and the engine wont start, it turns over but Im not getting any spark from the distributor, I did make sure to replace the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc, but Im not getting any spark at all. Could the distributor be bad? Thanks
nexgen91

nexgen91
Nov 6
to Sales
Hey I sent you an email a few days ago, the engine will not start, looks like it might be a bad distributor, any chance I can get a partial refund to cover the cost of a new one, or could you possibly send me one? Thanks
nexgen91

Sales
Nov 6
to me
Hello Matt,
I apologize for the delay, We been having issues with our email server.
Let me see what I can do and I will get back to you asap. It could be a coil or ICM issue.


nexgen91
Nov 7
to Sales
Ok sounds good, thanks
nexgen91

nexgen91
Nov 10
to Sales
Any update on the situation? Should I just order one and get a partial refund? I need to get my car back on the road Thank you
nexgen91


Sales
Nov 12
to me
Hello Matt,
Sorry for the delay. The replacement ignition coil part has been shipped. Should arrive to you by this Friday.
We are very certain its the coil. From past experience, When engines are prepared for shipping their pressure washed some caps may have hair line cracks which could allow water in. Also here is the tracking details usps 9405 5036 9930 0416 1013 38
Replacing it is very easy takes about 10 minutes, If need need help replacing just let me know I will do my best to guide you through the process.


nexgen91
Nov 13
to Sales
ok thanks, ill let you know how it goes

nexgen91
Nov 18
to Sales
Got the coil but still having some issues, it started briefly, but wouldn't stay running and was idling really bad. Now it wont start again.


Sales
Nov 18
to me
Hello Matt,
Was their any cel on? If so where they checked?
Also are you not getting any spark again? Any burnt marks on the new coil after the idle?
Here is a very good link to help troubleshoot the ignition
Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Let me know your findings.


Matt <nexgen91@gmail.com>
Nov 18
to Sales
Yes they're was a cel, it was for the intake air temp sensor. I'll have to check for spark, didn't get a chance to.I'll check the coil for burn marks also.

nexgen91
Nov 21
to Sales
Went through that guide and everything checked out good, I'm getting spark now, but still not starting.


nexgen91
Nov 21
to Sales
Man I have tried everything I can think of, I do have fuel going in (plugs are getting wet) and there is spark at all the plugs, I have even tried swapping the whole distributor/plugs/wires, IACV, different ECU, checked all the plugs to make sure they where hooked up tight and correct, and nothing is working. The main relay is good, and I can hear the fuel pump kicking on, and it still wont start at all and I have been without a car for almost a month and a half now. What are my options at this point? Is a full or partial refund an option at all, or do you have another solution? This has not been like any other swap I have ever had done, never had this much of a problem getting things running smoothly. There where no burn marks on the coil. Thanks


Sales
Nov 21
to me
Hello Matt,
Okay, Where you able to check for good fuel pressure?
Turn the key dont start though and slightly loosen the fuel rail bolt. Fuel should pour out. If that checks out, I would double check the tiny screen filters on top of the injectors. Some debris could have made its way their. Also since it started before hand, and was cranked afterwards with no luck. I would remove the plugs clean them really good, perhaps it could be flooded, then dry for a few minutes. Double check gap as well. Also make sure all your grounds are good and connected. Since you mentioned the timing belt was replaced. Double check and make sure the cam gears and pulley marks line up on tdc.


nexgen91
Nov 23 (12 days ago)
to Sales
Fuel pressure checks good, Im getting fuel to the filter (I have replaced the filter as well now) and also getting pressure to the rail. It pours out in both places when disconnected. The screens on the injectors are fine as well, also when I try to start the engine the plugs get wet so I know it is getting fuel. I have pulled the plugs and allowed the cylinders to dry out over night in case of flooding. Tried two sets of plugs, gap was good on both sets (even new plugs did not help) I am getting spark, checked with spark checker. I have re tightened all grounds, and checked all the plugs on the harness and everything is hooked up correctly and tightly. Timing marks line up as the are supposed to at TDC as well. Im not getting any ignition at all, the motor turns over and there is a little something there (noise like it is firing one cylinder) but still not starting. Im at a loss of things to try here.


nexgen91
Nov 23 (12 days ago)
to Sales
Also did a cylinder leakage test, and it was good as well.


Sales
Nov 24 (11 days ago)
to me
Hello Matt,
I see. I'm kind of leaning towards a faulty distributor. Our old race car had some of the same symptoms. Fuel wash was one, after turning over multiple times the fuel would wash down the oil and would compromise the compression. We would drop a tiny amount of oil in each cylinder to seal, Then rotate by hand a few times. And a push start worked as well. Regarding the distributor the test would be good, However we replaced it and it ended up firing right up. At this point we can arrange a new distributor, However If the problem persist we highly recommend for a reputable professional shop to over look and diagnose the vehicle.


nexgen91
Nov 24 (11 days ago)
to Sales
Ok yes please send a distributor, and if that doesnt fix it I will take it somewhere and have them look at it. Thank you


Sales
Nov 25 (10 days ago)
to me
Hello Matt,
Okay will do,
Your welcome.


nexgen91
Nov 25 (10 days ago)
to Sales
Since the Intake Air Temp sensor is throwing a code and appears to be bad is it possible to get one of those as well? Thanks


Sales
Nov 26 (9 days ago)
to me
Hello Matt,
Yes I will arrange that as well.


nexgen91
Nov 26 (9 days ago)
to Sales
Ok thank you


nexgen91
Dec 2 (3 days ago)
to Sales
Ok got the distributor and changed it and the IAT sensor and still nothing, got spark and fuel but still no start. My frustration level is through the roof right now, is there any way we can work out some kind of refund for this thing? Im done with it. Thanks


Sales
Dec 3 (2 days ago)
to me
Hello Matt,
I understand your frustration, Unfortunately we are unable to do so. At this point as mentioned I would highly recommend the vehicle be taken to a professional reputable mechanic shop to over look and diagnose the vehicle.


nexgen91
1:20 PM (13 hours ago)
to Sales
I want to ask can you please give me the reason for not issuing a refund? I bought what I thought was a fully functioning motor that I could put in my car and it would start up and run correctly. This has not been the case, I have had nothing but problems with this engine. I expected to have to replace some minor parts and did end up doing so, but the engine still does not function correctly. Even when it did start breifly it did not sound healthy at all, was stumbling and stuttering. I have tried to be patient and work with you on getting it to work, but my patience has grown thin. Im extremely frustrated about the situation mainly because I spent a lot of money for an engine that doesn't work.

Thanks
nexgen91



Sales
8:50 PM (5 hours ago)
to me
Hello Matt,
We understand many customers have some knowledge with swaps, and some hands on experience. However all engines sold require professional installation. It is our conclusion that the engine was not taken to a professional automotive establishment for installation as required for warranty. Professional installation is require so that engines are properly installed, and to eliminate any misinstallations. Yes we did try and assist as best we could with the replacement parts, and troubleshooting ideas. Diagnosing engines can become very difficult very quick, This is why we advised the vehicle be taken and inspected properly for a diagnostic.

lostforawhile

if someone implied I was a dumbass like that....................

they just assume that only a "shop" can do a swap, there are a lot of people here with a lot more knowledge on these cars then the average shop, worst cop out I've ever heard

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It's perfectly reasonable that they would expect the engine to be professionally installed before warrantying it. Take it to a mechanic, get it checked out, get it fixed.

You said you checked spark. Exactly what color was it on all four plugs?

You said you checked compression. Exactly what were the numbers?

Post a picture of your crank pulley and cams, showing that it is set at TDC.

How they had you diagnose fuel pressure is stupid, and dangerous. Buy/borrow/rent a fuel pressure tester, use it properly, and tell us what the pressure is at the filter.

HondaPartsHero

You replaced the IAT and the code was still on? What color wires are going to the IAT? What is your year, make and model? ECU? If I were the shop I'd do the same thing. The engine isn't the issue. If they sent you a new distributor and it still doesn't start I'd lean towards an ECU or main relay issue. Now if you checked compression and it was low then you might have a case. I'm on the shop's side of this one. Have it checked by a reputable shop, have them document everything. If it is an engine or sensor issue NOT caused by your installation then you have some what of a case.

tony_2018

Your missing car information

nexgen91

It's in a 96 Civic DX, used an ex harness. The ecu was part of the package.

Former User

An engine vendor thread does not belong here as it is not a technical question. I am in the process of getting this thread moved to the Sales Feedback subforum.

In the meantime, create a new thread if you wish to get advice on a technical problem.

When you create a technical thread, be sure to answer ALL questions posed to you by members. For example, HondaPartsHero made an important request in another thread but you never responded.

tony_2018

It would be nice if you posted more information on the engine itself. Do you know how many years they been producing the b18c-R?

nexgen91

Sorry it's a 97 spec engine.