rice4life

iTrader: (3)

interesting. are those gram lights wheels

Gearhead364

I just finished installing my DPHA calipers on my civic and my 15x7 rota grids wont clear the calipers. with a 1/4 spacer you can barley fit a business card between the wheel and caliper. I don't want to run a spacer and extended studs so I am looking for wheel options. Is any one running this set up with 15x8 te37sl +36? or does anyone have a set of these wheels they would be willing to measure for me to see if they would clear? They would have to have .82 of an inch clearance at 3.12 inch from the wheel center line. Any help or input would be great!

miamirice

Just curious why you are opposed to spacers? I now use 5mm and prefer them. If your not limited by rules I also would go bigger on the wheels. I use a 9" on the front and 8" on the rear.

Gearhead364

I'm not completely opposed to spacers I just would rather not use them. I would also not have to run extended studs. 9" wide rim? dang what size tire are you running?

essex

A really good reason not to run them on 15x7 is scrub radius. But with credit card space I would run them as is.

miamirice

Mostly 205, sometime 225.

flamingdragon

how much stretch in your sidewalls do you get with those sizes?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Lots of stretchy.. stretchy

miamirice

It's all relative to the tire brand as you may already know. A 205 Hoosier looks just like a 225 Toyo RR regarding stretch. I am not smart enough to figure out scrub radius effects but the wider track up front sure feels good.

Gearhead364

Just an update for someones future reference. 15x8 +35 Volk TE37sl's clear wilwood calipers without spacers!

anthonyfa18

Dose any one know if u can run a 11.57" rotor with dpha calipers???? Or do u have to stay with a 10.3 rotor

miamirice

I don't know how you could.....but if it's possible I would think the "fast brakes" guy would know.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I confirmed with him. They do not work with an 11.57" rotor, nor will they work with a mini rotor of larger size. Gotta stay 10.3.

Looks like my set will go to my wife's car. I'll be getting a different part number because I'd actually be going DOWN in size if I used the DPHA.

A little something I did on them first.

Lo-Buck EF

you would need to use the dynapro caliper to go 11.1/ 11.8. that;s what i've been using for the last few years. (dynapro/ 11.8 2 piece)

CEMC18

For what it is wort. We have a 93 Civic with 2000 JDM ITR engine and suspension swap. It is a time attack and slalom car currently. When we got the car it had the ITR brake set-up. When putting in wheel bearings we noticed some "failures" in the spindles so we realized we needed new ones. We decided to go with Civic SI spindles and switched the the Wilwood DPHA calipers with stock sized rotors. first thing we noticed was weight. We weighed all of the ITR components and then weighed all of the new parts. in total we took 12lbs out of the front suspension just in brake parts.

As far as performance.... we went this spring to do a HPD school to refresh ourselves as it had been a while since we had driven. Our instructors were two very accomplished drivers both here in Canada and in SCCA racing. They were both EXTREMELY impressed in the braking capabilities of the car. I personally couldn't believe how good they worked. the ITR set-up was great.... these are superb. Excellent pedal feel and modulation is effortless. Oh and the pads are a lot cheaper!!

End result.... do not think about this swap...... DO IT!!

Runnerdown

I have these calipers on my 2000 GSR and they have been pretty damn good on the street. I have the higher grade blank centric rotors and wildwood pads the kit came with. Wildwood said the pads would work ok at a circuit event but I doubt it. They do not behave like a real track pad so I will swap them.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Correct.. Brian stated the same, so I'll be doing the same

h46it

Not totally on topic, but what about the old Porsche brake kit that fit for Honda/Acura that AEM use to sell? They used to fit under 15" wheels?

epicberry

In case anyone was still wondering if Hawk makes a pad for the DPHA caliper - they do! The part number is HB542G.490 where:

HB542 = pad plate type for this caliper
G = DTC60 brake compound (Hawk makes all sorts of compounds for this caliper denoted by letter)
.490 = pad thickness which corresponds with the pads used on this caliper

The information is not readily available online but bits and pieces are floating, I believe a member on this thread mentioned this as well but only as a part he wanted to sell. I talked to my local parts store, as well as Wilwood and Hawk to verify this. I'm going to get a set of these calipers for next season for sure.

maxogsr

This dpha is more a show set up than a track set up. True pads are cheap but they don t last long and the get cook easily. My good buddy tried those but finally switch back to itr set up. I also remember that he had to machine some material of the pads to have them fit when using hawks dtc60. Like if the pads were too thick. This was last year. Maybe this problem has been adress since then.

As for your weird pedal feeling... Most of the time, when pedal is too low on an honda, it directly relate to the rear brake... If your pads are more than halfway worn, you will experience mooshy pedal feeling. Same if your rear rotor are too thin... Just put some new rotor and pads in the back and you should fix that problem...

Me and my friend are both running dc2 chassis and when throught many set up. If you want to run 15" wheels, the itr conversion is the best brake upgrade when done the right way. Parts are easy to find and it can handle a lot of heat on track.

One last thing to consider is pads. This is where you can fine tune you brake feeling...initial bite and torque. My last advice would be to stay away from the dtc70 witch are terrible on rotors. They make them cracking very fast compare to the dtc60 or lower temp operating compound.

SkylineKin

Does anyone have more feedback on this kit? Looking at the Wilwood DPHA kit or the Wilwood Dynalite kit.

maxogsr

Like I say on the same page about 1 post up , if you care to read, if it s for show, go, other wise, spend your money elsewhere, save it for a real kit. This is not a race set up.

SkylineKin

I did see your comments, appreciate the feedback.

known

iTrader: (1)

I owned these calipers, and the only issue I could see would be dust seals melting. I have been discussing using these on our chump car to provide us with cheaper pads, and better feel.

Your comment about a low pedal being related to the rear...I have never experienced that in 20 years of owning and tuning hondas. I have had issues when the right Master cylinder wasn't used, causing the issue you described.

I personally have run DTC 70s, they didn't eat my rotors up? I loved them...

Are you speaking from exp, or just basing this all on your friends?

The itr setup isnt the easiest setup due to the non off the shelf rotors.

You can run an 11.1 Dynapro off a civic hub easily under 15s on an integra, and the cost is pretty reasonable.

I personally have run everything we are discussing on track, and the street, so I have my own experience with each...not just hearsay.

7812 pad has plenty of options to pick from.... http://porterfield-brakes.com/manufa...Type+7812.html


This debate is exactly what we have been discussing for our chump car, because I have a set of itr brakes already for it...we dont like the rotor issue and the pads are fairly expensive for the setup. Using the dpha is a possibility if we dont just go to the 11.1 or 11.8 setup from wilwood.

maxogsr

As far as I know there is no dust seal on wilwood calipers...

Your chump car as probably 100hp and probably weight 1700lbs... My car is 250whp k teg and it weight 2250lbs. It probably reach way much more speed than yours in between 2 corners. I didnt even brake went I compete on my buddys chumpcar or just barely to keep momentum. Totally different type of driving... Enduro racing is about being gentle on componments so can still have a car to reach the checked flag. On my time attack car, when you need to extract every single tenth, your brake tend to suffer way much more! But I m wondering how can you fit a 500-600$ brake kit on a chumpcar without breaking the bank with the actual rules... Unless they change it this year...

If you have a serious track car that car reach serious speed, your gonna experience those kind of probs. There s a bunch of guys who runs Honda with similar brake set up to mine not having those probs but they are slower too. I have won the last 5 years provincial time attack championship here... It probably mean something!

That beign say, I haven t tried it my self. But me and my friends works as a team and with the type of driving we are doing, it wasen t convincing for him. An other friend of mine has run the dynalite kit and was also experiencing leaking seal and a low pedal when thing were getting hot... That summer he dnf 2 times because of break issues.

Good if it works for you, but it didn t for my 2 friends...

As for the low pedal feel on a Honda, next time it happen to you, just try new pads in the back... It solve my prob almost each time! I don t even let them wear more than half now. This way, I always have a rock hard pedal feel... Easy 50$ fix!

Last thing... I experience craking rotor with the dtc70 on track where you need your brake. On a track like Mosport, I never had issue...