miamirice

If this topic has been covered, I sure can't find it through searching. I am currently using reman. ITR calipers (11.1" rotor). Tires are Hoosier sm7 or toyo RR. Pads are cobalt xr2. ( have also used carbotech xp12).

My complaint is the brakes are hard to develope feel for modulating. The pedal is soft for what I am use to yet will lock pretty easily. ( it's not a brake bleed issue. Have addressed that and had others drive the car. It's just how these feel I am told)

I am going to convert to wildwood DPHA which of course is a forged 4-piston set up. Rotors are the 10.3". I ordered Polymatrix-B pads after talking to the folks at Wilwood.

The car is used for both sprint and endurance racing. The tracks have some pretty severe braking spots (110 down to 45ish threshold). Hot climate. I have not yet installed any ducting but plan to. I have not had the ITR brakes fail me, they have started to fade a few times but destroying tires are more the concern. I see weight, feel, and pad cost as the benefit (pads are 50% cost with wildwood)

Anybody with experience using both these set ups have any comments or suggestions?

Kingbuiltscca

I'm going with type r brakes on my new scca ek STL car this year. Even though it's to conform to the rules I see a advantage over a bigger 11.1 rotor and a better hawk pad plus a better stop tech rotor that I can run over the wildwood bp30 compound. Plus if you're having some fad I would switch to the motul 660 brake fluid. It makes a difference. Also I have NEVER had any luck with cobalt brakes. I've always run hawk hp plus or blue. My car is 2700 Ibs and I run Hoosier a7

miamirice

I am not doing any SCCA at this time, I assume the pad choices you mention are due to STL rule limitations?

Kingbuiltscca

No actually the pads are free, I just have had great results with those. 18 laps at mid Ohio with no fade at all!

solorex

^Hawk Blues really? You need to step up to their DTC60's... way better and the dust doesn't destroy everything like the blues did.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Plus one for the DTC-60's

For those that are about to shell out the money for the big name brakes seriously look into the legend caliper/mini swap.
You can have big brakes for a fraction of the cost of the name brands everyone seems to think will cure their brake woes.

miamirice

My thoughts too on the hawk pads.

Dirty- my current set up is mini rotor, I have the 1" MC and ITR calipers. They stop the car fine, in fact they will lock easily, my gripe is they have terrible feel. Nothing like an s2000 or e36 m3. The willwood DPHA are only $400 for the front pair and pads are half the cost.

Has anybody driven these? I am happy to post a review but was hoping to get some feedback from some users. I won't get them on the car for a race until April. I have to think the legend calipers feel a lot like the ITR no?

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

its my understanding that the ITR, Legend and Odyssey mini van all use the same pad.
I had no idea those willwoods were soooooo IMO affordable. my eyes are open
Maybe on my next project car I'll give those a shot.

liam821

I run wildwood DPHA 4pot "dynalite" calipers with 11" Ultralite HPS 30 rotors. I run the Wilwood BP-30 pads. I'm running a stock 15/16th master cyl, SS lines all around. Stock rear disc brakes. Brakes are excellent, decent pedal feel, extremely powerful, and easy to modulate. I've never had any fade.

boost ben

Have you tried a car without boosted brakes? I don't have my race licence yet but have worked on a team that runs a FD RX7 for about 5 years now. It has AP racing brakes all around with a AP racing pedal box. I used to hate driving the car around the paddock and to and from tech with manual brakes....that being said, once up to speed (non race weekend, empty paddock speeds so like 100km/h) the brakes are very very responsive yet give awesome feed back.

I know the setups are far different but I'll be switching my track civic to manual brakes after this season to try and get the same feeling as the RX7. I'm running the EX front 10.2 brakes with regular integra rears. I have also had problems with lock-up with poor feed back from the "factory" setup. I also want to add an adjustable prop valve to better balance the brakes for a super light rear end.

miamirice

I have driven a car with no brake boost on the track. It was a nice RS clone that I couldn't write a check for so I wasn't pushing hard. I wonder how easy/difficult it is at the threshold braking pace, I agree it has nice feel. I am not smart enough to know how to convert the car to this set up but certainly would give it a go if this set up doesn't solve my issue.

boost ben

it's definitely a bit of work. Basically you'll be making all new brake lines

The stock master and prop valve has 2 circuits while aftermarket masters (typically) only have one. You'd need a mounting plate and master (cheap as all the hard parker tucked engine bay guys buy them) and then a adjustable prop valve. You go from the master to a Tee (now a front and rear circuit), run the rear line past the driver in some manor where the prop valve will be installed (only controls the ratio of rear bias) and operated by the driver.

Give the calipers a try first...however I think the power brakes are making it feel vague.

liam821

I've never driven a car without boosted brakes.

I drove my race car this morning on a quick 15 minute drive through the back country and then went immediately into my BMW e93 M3. The brakes in the civic are mushier, but more powerful. The brake feel in the M3 is better, the pedal pressure is better, and its more progressive. The civic has better stopping power though, once you get some heat in them they work extremely well. No doubt the hoosier slicks don't hurt either not to mention the civic is half the weight, the e93 is a bit of a porker.

Still, the Wilwood's are a huge improvement and i've been really happy with them. Parts are cheap, they're easy (and cheap) to rebuild, and they don't fade.

king06

iTrader: (1)

They run the same caliper, ITR, accord v6 and Odyssey, but the pads are different from ITR vs the rest. Different part number anyways, maybe different material?

miamirice

Good to hear. I spent the day testing my car yesterday and don't have enough pad for the race weekend coming up so.....I will be installing my DPHA wilwoods and will review my impressions.

what gsr

iTrader: (3)

done mid ohio 3 times so far with my DPHA and DTC-60 with Wilwood fluid.

brakes have great modulation and plenty of grip with absolutely no brake fade. my previous setup were just GSR calipers with DTC-60.

GSRs did fade a bit on me during the summer but were fine in spring and fall when they could cool off a little bit better. The biggest difference to me was the overall feel of the steering with the DPHA you can absolutely feel the weight difference.

LightningTeg

Are you running the stock rubber hose? I love the way my Integra feels with HP+ and stainless lines. My old civic that I took to gingerman a few times had the same setup (DTC-60s) but stock lines and was noticeably 'squishier' but I didnt have a problem modulating.

Davidss

Where did you find hawk pads for the DPHA caliper? Searching the hawk site pulls up nothing for the 7812 pad shape.

miamirice

Remanufactured ITR vs Willwood DPHA. 2 of the wildwood weight less than 1 of the ITR.



11.1" rotor for ITR (top) vs. 10.3" rotor for willwood



Me making my critical error- you must bleed the brakes on the inside screw AND the outside screw. My first multi-piston calipers and totally missed this. Spent my first day at race with 2 total brake failures in practice, did qualifying and 2 races with brakes that required a couple pumps to get pedal height, pretty lame experience. Learn from my mistake. We bled them so may times but day 2 they were perfect.



Poly matrix-B pad ($100) vs Cobalt XR 2 ($230)



Always inspect your stuff- both fronts looked like this.....pad crumble



My impressions are I love these brakes. I ran 4 sprints and won the weekend. They have more feel and I can modulate them better. The couple times I locked up, I could back off and still be slowing the car where previously it was more of a lock and release, lock and release modulation. I will say we ran 20min sprints and not the typical 30min so I will have to see what happens next time. On day 2 when we had all the air out of the system they never got soft or deep. I am using Motul 660 fluid. I want to run ducts but nothing currently.

LightningTeg

Wait the Wilwoods are only 10.3"?

SkylineKin

The Wilwood DPHA calipers are designed to replace the oem calipers while utilizing stock mounting location, rotors (if you have 10.3" like civic ex/si) and brake lines.

I have been interested in these calipers but was worried they would overheat the stock sized rotor. Look forward to hearing more feedback from the OP.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'm in for more information as well. I currently have 2 piston NSX brake calipers and wanted something that would have nicer modulation and save cost in pads. Since the ITR and NSX use the same pads, I think this will be an overall improvement. I Just purchased the DPHAs

MyspaceTOM

I was on the fence about these or the mini ITR setup. Went ITR with Hawk HP+ soo we will see how things go this year. Looking forward to hearing more feedback.

20CiviC02Si

iTrader: (3)

I'm currently switching over to dual piston NSX calipers from the ITR and utilizing the mini rotors, and hawk dtc70 front pads. Going to test this setup out, I liked it with the ITR calipers so hopefully the NSX will be better.

If not I'll be going wilwood. Do they make the kit for ITR rotor sizes?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

140-6163 I think fits the Type R. I'd have to reconfirm, as the Type R rotor is larger than all the others.