Track/race oil
#1
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Track/race oil
I'll be driving my car at the track at outside temperature between 15 to 40 Celcius (the car is not used during winter). My engine is an almost stock B18C1 (NA).
Here what I read on bobistheoilguy.com:
"The best way to figure out what viscosity of oil you need is to drive the car in the conditions you will use. Then use the oil viscosity that gives you 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM under those circumstances."
I actually have no way of measuring the oil pressure on the track. What do you guys recommend for oil to be used at the track for summer temperature (considering the above fact)?
Here what I read on bobistheoilguy.com:
"The best way to figure out what viscosity of oil you need is to drive the car in the conditions you will use. Then use the oil viscosity that gives you 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM under those circumstances."
I actually have no way of measuring the oil pressure on the track. What do you guys recommend for oil to be used at the track for summer temperature (considering the above fact)?
#2
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Re: Track/race oil
i run rotella 15w40 and wix filters
wix filters have metal inside and good filter media as opposed to carboard and paper like the cheap frm filters
as for rotella, it is designed for semi trucks that see 40-50psi of boost regularly, abused, and put through its paces...it also has high zinc and other additive content. most off the shelf oils have pulled alot of the additives that make oil really work well, race oils mostly just add those back in....rotella=cheap race oil...lol
wix filters have metal inside and good filter media as opposed to carboard and paper like the cheap frm filters
as for rotella, it is designed for semi trucks that see 40-50psi of boost regularly, abused, and put through its paces...it also has high zinc and other additive content. most off the shelf oils have pulled alot of the additives that make oil really work well, race oils mostly just add those back in....rotella=cheap race oil...lol
#3
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Re: Track/race oil
We run 40W redline race oil. says its a 10-40W oil. Perry performance in laval sells it for a good price. We bought from them and shipped to Nova Scotia because it was cheaper at the time. We can get it now so we do, but its about $12 a Liter. Its doesn't have all the detergents normal oil has so it wouldn't be great for a street drivin vehicle. I dont think. But we road race a del sol with a 96 ITR motor and it seems to like the oil. Doesn't burn it, no extra noise. and oil temps with a 6X6 oil cooler is around 230 F at the end of a 15 Lap sprint race, 28C temps that day. We tried royal purple stuff and the motor made some new noises. lol. No sure why, but it did. Same weight just a street/race oil.
I also run Luqui moly 5w-40 in my D15B7 autocross/lapping/daily driver. Dosnt burn any with 285,000 on it and sounds great. We used it for a few years in the del sol when it had a B17A1 motor and it worked great in it as well. But not as good as the redline race oil we use now.
I also run Luqui moly 5w-40 in my D15B7 autocross/lapping/daily driver. Dosnt burn any with 285,000 on it and sounds great. We used it for a few years in the del sol when it had a B17A1 motor and it worked great in it as well. But not as good as the redline race oil we use now.
#4
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Re: Track/race oil
i run rotella 15w40 and wix filters
wix filters have metal inside and good filter media as opposed to carboard and paper like the cheap frm filters
as for rotella, it is designed for semi trucks that see 40-50psi of boost regularly, abused, and put through its paces...it also has high zinc and other additive content. most off the shelf oils have pulled alot of the additives that make oil really work well, race oils mostly just add those back in....rotella=cheap race oil...lol
wix filters have metal inside and good filter media as opposed to carboard and paper like the cheap frm filters
as for rotella, it is designed for semi trucks that see 40-50psi of boost regularly, abused, and put through its paces...it also has high zinc and other additive content. most off the shelf oils have pulled alot of the additives that make oil really work well, race oils mostly just add those back in....rotella=cheap race oil...lol
I've tried them all, and believe me ALL of them.... from the cheapest to the most expensive.
You just cant beat this stuff.
#5
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Re: Track/race oil
i run rotella 15w40 and wix filters
wix filters have metal inside and good filter media as opposed to carboard and paper like the cheap frm filters
as for rotella, it is designed for semi trucks that see 40-50psi of boost regularly, abused, and put through its paces...it also has high zinc and other additive content. most off the shelf oils have pulled alot of the additives that make oil really work well, race oils mostly just add those back in....rotella=cheap race oil...lol
wix filters have metal inside and good filter media as opposed to carboard and paper like the cheap frm filters
as for rotella, it is designed for semi trucks that see 40-50psi of boost regularly, abused, and put through its paces...it also has high zinc and other additive content. most off the shelf oils have pulled alot of the additives that make oil really work well, race oils mostly just add those back in....rotella=cheap race oil...lol
#6
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Re: Track/race oil
Also I use Honda oil filters. Never had a problem with them. Had a few random A/M filters bleed off and start-up in -20 sucks. So i just always used factory Honda filters.
Just wonding why do you guys use the Wix filter.
Just wonding why do you guys use the Wix filter.
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#8
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Re: Track/race oil
From what I understand, the Wix XP filters have metal in it as opposed to paper. But I'm surprised, because the XP and standard Wix filters are the same price.
#9
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Re: Track/race oil
Personally I have had some racers I know report, and show me Honda or Fram filters that have imploded.
The interior of the filter has smashed up inside.(implode)
I have also seen some Wix filters the mount surface walls deform.
Google image this, and see what the hub bub is all about.
I've never seen a Wix implode like the paper lined filters do.
None the less id opt for a metal lined filter over a paper one.
The Rotella 40 weight oil I use is full synth oil, and I get it at of all places Walmart.
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Re: Track/race oil
Personally I have had some racers I know report, and show me Honda or Fram filters that have imploded.
The interior of the filter has smashed up inside.(implode)
I have also seen some Wix filters the mount surface walls deform.
Google image this, and see what the hub bub is all about.
I've never seen a Wix implode like the paper lined filters do.
None the less id opt for a metal lined filter over a paper one.
The Rotella 40 weight oil I use is full synth oil, and I get it at of all places Walmart.
The interior of the filter has smashed up inside.(implode)
I have also seen some Wix filters the mount surface walls deform.
Google image this, and see what the hub bub is all about.
I've never seen a Wix implode like the paper lined filters do.
None the less id opt for a metal lined filter over a paper one.
The Rotella 40 weight oil I use is full synth oil, and I get it at of all places Walmart.
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Re: Track/race oil
We run 40W redline race oil. says its a 10-40W oil. Perry performance in laval sells it for a good price. We bought from them and shipped to Nova Scotia because it was cheaper at the time. We can get it now so we do, but its about $12 a Liter. Its doesn't have all the detergents normal oil has so it wouldn't be great for a street drivin vehicle. I dont think. But we road race a del sol with a 96 ITR motor and it seems to like the oil. Doesn't burn it, no extra noise. and oil temps with a 6X6 oil cooler is around 230 F at the end of a 15 Lap sprint race, 28C temps that day. We tried royal purple stuff and the motor made some new noises. lol. No sure why, but it did. Same weight just a street/race oil.
I also run Luqui moly 5w-40 in my D15B7 autocross/lapping/daily driver. Dosnt burn any with 285,000 on it and sounds great. We used it for a few years in the del sol when it had a B17A1 motor and it worked great in it as well. But not as good as the redline race oil we use now.
I also run Luqui moly 5w-40 in my D15B7 autocross/lapping/daily driver. Dosnt burn any with 285,000 on it and sounds great. We used it for a few years in the del sol when it had a B17A1 motor and it worked great in it as well. But not as good as the redline race oil we use now.
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Re: Track/race oil
From what I read, people seems to say that the 15w40 from Redline is probably to thick for our high rev engines and that it would be better to stick with 10w40 or under. Just trying to get as much info as I can on the subject.
#17
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Re: Track/race oil
I kinda was thinking that when we first tried it but after running it for 2 years in a B17A1 and 2 weekends this year in the ITR motor, I am okay with it. The oil is up to temp before we even start the warm-up lap. But if your not comfortable running the 40W try the 30W race oil.
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Re: Track/race oil
Thanks for all the infos. I'll probably go with the Rotella T6 (5w40) or the Redline 30WT. The redline is not available everywhere compared to the Rotella, which I already know where to buy it (and also cheaper).
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Re: Track/race oil
I run the thinnest oil I can get away with and still make pressure. Which happens to be a 10w-30. 220-260F in the pan, 7krpms, 70psi.
Right now my oil of choice is Amsoil Signature series 10w-30. I :heart: amsoil.
I only change my oil after 3 weekends or 24 sessions. I change my filter after each weekend. Clean oil is happy oil. Don't waste your money on oil changes, synthetic race oil really doesn't "wear out". Keep it clean and run it longer. Says Joe Gibbs.
p.s. because I change filter every weekend, I run Fram extra guard because they're cheap. I like Purolator as well. I like the Honda PCX-004 filters but I find myself in Wal-Mart more than I find myself in a dealership, which is both good and unfortunate depending on perspective.
Right now my oil of choice is Amsoil Signature series 10w-30. I :heart: amsoil.
I only change my oil after 3 weekends or 24 sessions. I change my filter after each weekend. Clean oil is happy oil. Don't waste your money on oil changes, synthetic race oil really doesn't "wear out". Keep it clean and run it longer. Says Joe Gibbs.
p.s. because I change filter every weekend, I run Fram extra guard because they're cheap. I like Purolator as well. I like the Honda PCX-004 filters but I find myself in Wal-Mart more than I find myself in a dealership, which is both good and unfortunate depending on perspective.
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Re: Track/race oil
In the last 10 years I went through 3 bvtec (stock gsr, built gsr, specR) and now k20a... Don't worry, I'm doing a lot of track mileage in a summer, I'm on track at least once a week!
I was like you, trying different brand and viscosity. To be honest, today, all oil will do the job on daily basis as long as you are putting the right grade into your engine...
As for track use, if you were only using your car on track and it was built as hell or doing enduro, then I would suggest to go with higher oil grade... like the Redline or Gulf competition... But for ocaasionnally hpde or lapping day, just use good brand and the right viscosity... 5w30 or 5w40 is fine.
But honnestly, your best investment right now is an oil gage pressure and an oil gage temp and a camera focusssing on your gauges... If you plan on tracking your car often, these are a must...Otherwise it's just subjective conclusion. An other solution is to datalog those thing... but you'll need an s300/kpro or other stuff like these...
Temp depending on where you put your sensor should be between 250-300F hot.
Pressure on a bvtec wot should be between 70-80psi... It should be stable all time at wot...
I change my oil every 5-8hours of track and have no prob... I use Gulf Competition 5w40
Last thing... you say up there that some people say 15w40 is too thick for our high rev engine... the first number 10w or 15w stand for the viscosity when oil is cold... if the second number is w40 for both, that mean they have the same viscosity when they're hot! So it's all bs...
I was like you, trying different brand and viscosity. To be honest, today, all oil will do the job on daily basis as long as you are putting the right grade into your engine...
As for track use, if you were only using your car on track and it was built as hell or doing enduro, then I would suggest to go with higher oil grade... like the Redline or Gulf competition... But for ocaasionnally hpde or lapping day, just use good brand and the right viscosity... 5w30 or 5w40 is fine.
But honnestly, your best investment right now is an oil gage pressure and an oil gage temp and a camera focusssing on your gauges... If you plan on tracking your car often, these are a must...Otherwise it's just subjective conclusion. An other solution is to datalog those thing... but you'll need an s300/kpro or other stuff like these...
Temp depending on where you put your sensor should be between 250-300F hot.
Pressure on a bvtec wot should be between 70-80psi... It should be stable all time at wot...
I change my oil every 5-8hours of track and have no prob... I use Gulf Competition 5w40
Last thing... you say up there that some people say 15w40 is too thick for our high rev engine... the first number 10w or 15w stand for the viscosity when oil is cold... if the second number is w40 for both, that mean they have the same viscosity when they're hot! So it's all bs...
Last edited by maxogsr; 07-06-2014 at 01:54 PM.
#22
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Re: Track/race oil
I remember reading somewhere that the honda in Japan actualy were asking for 5w40, I'm trying to find that info again. 5w30 is for north america probably, with cold weather. My car is not going to see the winter, so I decided to go with the 40 WT from Redline (which is between 10w40 and 15w40).
#23
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Re: Track/race oil
In the last 10 years I went through 3 bvtec (stock gsr, built gsr, specR) and now k20a... Don't worry, I'm doing a lot of track mileage in a summer, I'm on track at least once a week!
I was like you, trying different brand and viscosity. To be honest, today, all oil will do the job on daily basis as long as you are putting the right grade into your engine...
As for track use, if you were only using your car on track and it was built as hell or doing enduro, then I would suggest to go with higher oil grade... like the Redline or Gulf competition... But for ocaasionnally hpde or lapping day, just use good brand and the right viscosity... 5w30 or 5w40 is fine.
But honnestly, your best investment right now is an oil gage pressure and an oil gage temp and a camera focusssing on your gauges... If you plan on tracking your car often, these are a must...Otherwise it's just subjective conclusion. An other solution is to datalog those thing... but you'll need an s300/kpro or other stuff like these...
Temp depending on where you put your sensor should be between 250-300F hot.
Pressure on a bvtec wot should be between 70-80psi... It should be stable all time at wot...
I change my oil every 5-8hours of track and have no prob... I use Gulf Competition 5w40
Last thing... you say up there that some people say 15w40 is too thick for our high rev engine... the first number 10w or 15w stand for the viscosity when oil is cold... if the second number is w40 for both, that mean they have the same viscosity when they're hot! So it's all bs...
I was like you, trying different brand and viscosity. To be honest, today, all oil will do the job on daily basis as long as you are putting the right grade into your engine...
As for track use, if you were only using your car on track and it was built as hell or doing enduro, then I would suggest to go with higher oil grade... like the Redline or Gulf competition... But for ocaasionnally hpde or lapping day, just use good brand and the right viscosity... 5w30 or 5w40 is fine.
But honnestly, your best investment right now is an oil gage pressure and an oil gage temp and a camera focusssing on your gauges... If you plan on tracking your car often, these are a must...Otherwise it's just subjective conclusion. An other solution is to datalog those thing... but you'll need an s300/kpro or other stuff like these...
Temp depending on where you put your sensor should be between 250-300F hot.
Pressure on a bvtec wot should be between 70-80psi... It should be stable all time at wot...
I change my oil every 5-8hours of track and have no prob... I use Gulf Competition 5w40
Last thing... you say up there that some people say 15w40 is too thick for our high rev engine... the first number 10w or 15w stand for the viscosity when oil is cold... if the second number is w40 for both, that mean they have the same viscosity when they're hot! So it's all bs...
#24
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Re: Track/race oil
Synthetic oil also wears out above a certain temperature, which can be done on the track. And while I'm not knocking your method, swearing by AMSOIL (who funds most oils tests) and running just about the worst oil filters (FRAM), seems like an extreme waste of money.
I run HAMP oil filters and honestly whatever good synthetic is on sale between 5w30 and 10w-40. Which is either Valvoline VR1, Royal Purple HPS, or Rotella T6. Refuse to spend more than $7 a quart so when theres a sale I stock up on one.
#25
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Re: Track/race oil
While it is true that clean oil is happy oil, there have been tests showing oil filter changes introduce more harmful particles in the first few passes. New oil filters have particulates from manufacturing that enter the system. Hence the change the filter every other oil change.
Synthetic oil also wears out above a certain temperature, which can be done on the track. And while I'm not knocking your method, swearing by AMSOIL (who funds most oils tests) and running just about the worst oil filters (FRAM), seems like an extreme waste of money.
I run HAMP oil filters and honestly whatever good synthetic is on sale between 5w30 and 10w-40. Which is either Valvoline VR1, Royal Purple HPS, or Rotella T6. Refuse to spend more than $7 a quart so when theres a sale I stock up on one.
Synthetic oil also wears out above a certain temperature, which can be done on the track. And while I'm not knocking your method, swearing by AMSOIL (who funds most oils tests) and running just about the worst oil filters (FRAM), seems like an extreme waste of money.
I run HAMP oil filters and honestly whatever good synthetic is on sale between 5w30 and 10w-40. Which is either Valvoline VR1, Royal Purple HPS, or Rotella T6. Refuse to spend more than $7 a quart so when theres a sale I stock up on one.