johnjw

Seems like every other race our rear camber comes loose and turns out positive. Seems no matter how tight we get the jam nuts on the sleeve it still works its way loose. I've contacted Skunk about it and was told to use blue locktite. I don't think this will help because as the rear suspension moves through its travel the upper arm twist causing the looseness.

I've discovered that removing one of the jam nuts will allow the upper arm to twist and return without loosening the nut.

Does anyone else have this problem? Solution? I've tried 2 different brands with same issue. I can't run a spherical on one end due to rules but might be to only option.

Davidss

I have used both skunk2 and ingalls in the past and never had an issue with them loosening/slipping. You have 2 lock nuts per adjuster right? And one is reverse threaded?

You could just go back to a stock arm with upgraded bushings. That is what I went to for a minor weight savings. You can buy a pack of body shims from harbor freight for precise camber adjustment.

johnjw

We were using the 2 jam nuts but decided that with it locked one would eventually work its way loose. So we removed one so that it could pivot in its travel without loosening. Sounds crazy but it worked, only issue is that the threads are a little loose in the sleeve without the jam nut.

I think once we find an optimal setting we will go back to shimming the upper control arm but we do like the adjustability from day to day specially in the PacNW with rain.

rice_classic

Car has a rear trailing arm right? Where the UCA bolts into the RTA, the "nut" is welded onto the RTA.

Cut the nut off, slot the holes and voila.. instant, easy camber adjustment and best yet, non-moveable in operation! My CRX has been this way for years (because adjustable UCA's are illegal) and I've never had the camber move on me.

johnjw

thumbup good idea. like it better than shimming.

Xian

That's a smart solution, I like it.

PS
Not to be pedantic but slotting the RTA is also illegal for ITA (you're in ITA trim, right?). IIRC, the only allowable camber adjustment is offset bushings in the stock upper control arm... and they're a pain in the *** since they have a habit of rotating mid-race.

rice_classic

Slotting the RTA is indeed legal in ITA. I have offset bushing up front. I've never had them change during a race... or even a season. I had the same camber on race #14 as I did in race #1.

Meanwhile I've see people with adj ball joints and UCAs constantly fiddling with adjustment mechanisms that don't stay put.

rice_classic

4. Independent rear suspension mounting holes may be slotted and reinforced for purposes of camber and/or toe adjustment.

Xian

Wowza... how in the hell did I miss that or did it get added?

Good to know the slotting works as that's soooooo cheap and easy vs. all the other "solutions" I've seen.

Edit:
Ahhhh... reading the whole section, I see why I'd always overlooked it.

I'd always read this as being relative to where the arms mount to the chassis and for cars with struts. i.e. you can slot the holes for the strut mounts. I don't know that anyone on the East Coast has tried that interpretation of extending the slotting to the arm itself vs. the [I]mounting[/] hole where it attaches to the chassis. In this context I think you're operating in a gray area though I can see it as being within the spirit of the rules.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the thread jack, but which offset bushings are you running in the front? I'm not seeing much around, but I'm sure I'm just not looking in the right places

rice_classic

I get what you're saying, but I think it's a safe interpretation of rule, especially since the word "chassis" isn't in the rule. It doesn't seem gray to me at all.

Edited.

rice_classic

Most CRX's can get all the negative camber they need just from lowering the car, but for whatever reason, others cannot. I'm using an eccentric bushing made for the OEM anchor bolts. However, I don't think anything like that even exists anymore.

Specialty Products Part# 84700 You'll probably have to call them to see if they can make a set or have a set collecting dust somewhere in a warehouse.
http://www.spcalignment.com/index.ph...tion&pid=84700

Try Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40


In the case the ones above cannot be had... You can go "gray" area on this one, albeit a very dirty gray.

Buy SPC part number 84945 and install them backwards. They are suppose to deliver positive camber but if you flip them you can get negative camber (might have to modify UCA a tad). While replacing the "Anchor bolt" isn't legal in ITA, this does provide you an "eccentric bushing". Unfortunately, the bushings in these don't fit the OEM anchor bolts as that would be super! So these are "offset bushings" but they come housed in an aftermarket anchor bolt. So "At your own risk" and all.

Xian

I hear ya... don't necessarily agree but can see your viewpoint. It always seemed to me that the strut cars got an "easy" solution on camber adjustment whereas the DW cars kinda got screwed with having to use offset bushings. Your interpretation of the rules definitely creates cost parity between suspension types and is way the hell better/easier than offset bushings, IMO. As far as them slipping, I never needed them (had EF's with plenty of camber) but knew several folks who had their offset bushings slip out of adjustment semi-regularly (a couple times per season).

:toast: