Hood Reinforcement Removal
#1
Hood Reinforcement Removal
Anybody done this before? What kind of tool did you use? Worth doing it? I am trying to save some weight on the front, and since I got a spare hood lying around I might give it a try. Thanks guys.
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Re: (BANNED_ID)
I'd say a cutoff saw, basically a large dremel friction type wheel. The Prepared/Production class roadracers and autocrossers do this all the time. It will be slow and painful and you'll be lucky to not cut through the hood anywhere on your first attempt. Oh yeah, and the hood will be very floppy so make sure you pin down all four corners properly when it's done.
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#8
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Re: (Mohudsolo)
I used a whizz wheel grinder and took all of the underside structure out of my CRX hood except outside perimeter sections. I don't know how much weight was removed as I did it a very long time ago. I still use the stock hinges then two hood pins on the leading edge. I can still hold the hood up with the stock prop rod on the driver's side but the passenger side of the hood does droop down about four or five inches when the hood prop is used. I was concerned about the hood maybe bowing down in the middle under aero load at speed but it has been fine so far. A carbon fibre hood would be nice and light but this cost me nothing but about 20 minutes with a whizz wheel and took some nose weight off the car.
#10
Re: (Mohudsolo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use hood pins on all four corners. Don't try and rely on either the stock hinges or hood latch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Would the hood pop open on the other side too?
Would the hood pop open on the other side too?
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Re: (BANNED_ID)
If you do like Lee and keep the perimeter part of the reinforcement, then the hinges will be OK. The ones I've seen cut everything out and basically just had a single sheet of stamped metal left. Many cars have a low pressure area at the base of the windshield that could cause the hood to lift up at the back. If all the reinforcement has been removed but the hinges kept, you'll basically have to drape the hood across the windshield when you open it since there will not be enough structure to use a prop rod. Do like Lee and you can still prop it open.
#12
Re: (Mohudsolo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do like Lee and keep the perimeter part of the reinforcement, then the hinges will be OK. The ones I've seen cut everything out and basically just had a single sheet of stamped metal left. Many cars have a low pressure area at the base of the windshield that could cause the hood to lift up at the back. If all the reinforcement has been removed but the hinges kept, you'll basically have to drape the hood across the windshield when you open it since there will not be enough structure to use a prop rod. Do like Lee and you can still prop it open.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats actually what I planned to do, hopefully it will save me a few lbs on the front end. I am still kinda confused on what tool to use to cut it, will a diegrinder do the job? I have a air compressor but I only get to use impact guns, never really tried the diegrinder tho.
I found my spare hood and ripped some of those glue-ish stuff that attached to the braces, they werent that hard to remove.
If I gonna leave the perimeter part and cut everything else, and use the factory hinge and two hood pins on the radiator support, will it be okay? Sorry for so many stupid questions, thanks a lot.
Thats actually what I planned to do, hopefully it will save me a few lbs on the front end. I am still kinda confused on what tool to use to cut it, will a diegrinder do the job? I have a air compressor but I only get to use impact guns, never really tried the diegrinder tho.
I found my spare hood and ripped some of those glue-ish stuff that attached to the braces, they werent that hard to remove.
If I gonna leave the perimeter part and cut everything else, and use the factory hinge and two hood pins on the radiator support, will it be okay? Sorry for so many stupid questions, thanks a lot.
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Re: (BANNED_ID)
It should be fine. A friction type disc in the die grinder will work well and they make lots of cool sparks which is always fun. Watch your eyes and look out for sharp edges when you are done. It's no fun to bleed all over your racecar, plus blood makes steel rust faster.
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Re: (BANNED_ID)
a racer in my area has it done, (like lee). and after feeling his hood, it really felt no lighter then a stock hood. im sure he saved 5 or so lbs but nothing drammatic.
AN FYI about the majority of the CF hoods out now, because of all the street people buying the majority of the hoods, they have went from being very light, to being built for looks only.
the majority of the hoods now just have one layer of carbon fiber then many layers of fiberglass, and then a super strong and heavy frame. which in turn makes them not much lighter then a stock hood.
I bought a CF hood for my EG a long time ago (2001 or so), and it is really light maybe 10lbs or so. compared to the stock hood that is 40lbs or so.
I have heard that there are companies who sell a Fiberglass hoods that are vary light also, and don't cost much (around 150-200 dollars.)
AN FYI about the majority of the CF hoods out now, because of all the street people buying the majority of the hoods, they have went from being very light, to being built for looks only.
the majority of the hoods now just have one layer of carbon fiber then many layers of fiberglass, and then a super strong and heavy frame. which in turn makes them not much lighter then a stock hood.
I bought a CF hood for my EG a long time ago (2001 or so), and it is really light maybe 10lbs or so. compared to the stock hood that is 40lbs or so.
I have heard that there are companies who sell a Fiberglass hoods that are vary light also, and don't cost much (around 150-200 dollars.)
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Re: (BANNED_ID)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BANNED_ID »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats a whizz wheel grinder? like a diegrinder? Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
#16
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Re: (BANNED_ID)
I used an electric die grinder to cut my hood although an air one would be fine. I would guess it probably took between 5-8 lbs off the hood but have never checked. Defiantely lighter hoods can be purchased but this lightening cost $0 so it is better than nothing.
Interesting comment about bleeding on your car. I have a 15+ year old scar across the back of my left hand where the disk from the same electric die grinder skipped lightly across a few knuckles. It cuts flesh even easier than metal, plastic, etc.
Interesting comment about bleeding on your car. I have a 15+ year old scar across the back of my left hand where the disk from the same electric die grinder skipped lightly across a few knuckles. It cuts flesh even easier than metal, plastic, etc.
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Re: (CRX Lee)
I did this to the hood of my GTI, I used a cut-off wheel (like the one pictured) and cut around the edges, then used a propane torch to soften the adhesive. On my GTI, the webbing was just glued to the hood, except on the edges. After heating with the torch, a putty knife did a good job of separating the webbing from the underside of the hood. I figure it may have taken 8 lbs from the hood, not much, but every bit counts, and its free . I use the stock hinges and 2 hood pins on the core support. I've got a scoop in the hood right behind the radiator to let air out of the engine bay. Before I added the scoop, the hood looked like it was going to fly off at speed, but now its pretty stable.
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Re: (BANNED_ID)
i used a smaller cutting wheel.. a bit bigger than a dremel. i justed a putty knift for the little rubber pieces, i shaved a whole 8 pounds off.
#21
Re: Hood Reinforcement Removal (BANNED_ID)
I did this before but it didn't save a ton a weight. A couple pounds ant most. I had a little more removed then the pic above. The part I didn't like was when you are out at the track and your hoods up it's all floppy, sagging, and any bit of wind sends panic that it is going to come unhooked and smash your windshield. I did use the stock hinges and hood pins and while driving it was fine. It ended up being illegal in my case (didn't say you could do it ). If you really want this I would make it where you pin four corners and just remove the hood.
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Re: (spock_rocker)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spock_rocker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used a smaller cutting wheel.. a bit bigger than a dremel. i justed a putty knift for the little rubber pieces, i shaved a whole 8 pounds off.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
did you experience any problems @ high speeds with the reinforcements removed? did that hood catch any air and shake around alot?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
did you experience any problems @ high speeds with the reinforcements removed? did that hood catch any air and shake around alot?
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Re: (Chillinit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chillinit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
did you experience any problems @ high speeds with the reinforcements removed? did that hood catch any air and shake around alot?</TD></TR></TABLE>
he has hood pins
did you experience any problems @ high speeds with the reinforcements removed? did that hood catch any air and shake around alot?</TD></TR></TABLE>
he has hood pins
#25
Re: (spock_rocker)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spock_rocker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">exactly. my latch was broken so i took it out, and i cant afford a CF hood so i cut this one and put in hood pins. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So I assume you just use two hood pins on the radiator support? I wonder where do you mount the other two pins in the back.
So I assume you just use two hood pins on the radiator support? I wonder where do you mount the other two pins in the back.