davegt27

Well I've had my ITA CRX for sale for almost 2 years and can’t seem to sell the car.

The whole time I've had this CRX I have been fighting the temptation upgrade the car to Solo II EP or road race GTL (GT light)

I must admit I know very little about Hondas, I did own an 88 AWD wagon that I repaired but that was back in the 1990's

Most of the time you guys take right over my head since I don’t know the interchangeability of parts or all the body codes.
Maybe some of you can help me out on this build

Step 1-- weight reduction the car is a stripped SCCA (Improved Turing A) car
I need to drop 300 LBS off the car

ITA is mostly a stock class and only the passenger seat and some gutting of the interior is allowed.

Any ideas?
And thanks in advance

Davegt27

mattbatson

I have seen more ITA cars up for sale then any other class in the last year...

wonder why people are bailing from that class?

anyways, I would just read the rules for production and start the build?

or, put a b16 or, if your rich, a K, in it and go STL?

STL seems to be building a lot of steam...

Sccacivic1997

iTrader: (2)

STL IS WHERE ITS AT!!

davegt27

Should be fun

My starting point



I will see if I can get some weight off the car
Gutting the doors should be easy

Finding stock looking FPR front body work maybe not so easy

Davegt27

Xian

What year/model CRX? There's a pretty big difference in weight between the early ones and later ones...

davegt27

It’s an 88 CRX SI


I am still looking for a carbon bumper and fenders

oh weights with me in the car



Davegt27

davegt27

Well I just screwed up, I ordered the wrong part I could have sworn it said CRX

J2 FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/J2-FRONT-LOWER-CONTROL-ARM-BAR-SUSPENSION-KIT-92-95-CIVIC-DEL-SOL-EH-EG-INTEGRA-/400580192454?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4470a8c6&vxp=mtr
Got it off Amazon so I sent them a message to see if I can return the items


Davegt27

chrisb

Running poly LCAs in the classes mentioned here is like bringing a stick to a gun fight in my opinion. I am biased but I think most will agree with me. I would stay stock before I would run poly in the front end of an EF Civic/CRX.

davegt27

I already have solid bushings

Why not take the solid bushings out and install them in the 3lb control arms

Or in other words I had no intention of keeping the poly bushings

Davegt27

Xian

Do you mean "solid bushings" as in "spherical" bushings? Regardless, the $$ to weight ratio for aftermarket arms doesn't seem that hot to me.

Relative to Chris' comment... yeah, spherical front end is the way to go for sure. And his stuff is absolutely top-notch (I've got it on my EF).

Back to the original question of weight...

#1- remove all the excess interior garbage
#2- remove HVAC system and heater core (though an argument can be made for keeping the heater core and fan for defrosting the inside of the windshield)
#3- remove washer bottle
#4- you can do an aluminum, half-width radiator right?
#5- replace hatch glass with lexan
#6- you can replace the OE headlights/buckets with something lighter, right?
#7- look at the exhaust system... often times there's unnecessary weight here.
#8- look at the swaybars... go hollow if possible.
#9- shock package... alum body shocks and 2.25" springs

Did the HF have lighter front/rear bumper beams? Or was that the VX in the next gen Civic?

chrisb

Ahh.. if you already have sphericals kindly ignore and move on. :-P Just ASSumed you were running the poly.

Xian

Solid bushings could also be... Delrin [shudder]

davegt27

I have this stuff no delrin (delrin is good I just don't have any on this car)

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...ring_kit/14412

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...od_Pivot/14411


I have FPR hatch and front fenders on the way but I can’t seem to find a stock looking Carbon Fiber nose


Davegt27

davegt27

Well the rear CRX hatch weighs 46lbs

The Carbon Fiber one weighs 12lbs without any Lexan

The glass quarter windows weigh 4lbs each
Hardly seems worth removing since one side took 1 ½ hours to get out. I got the heat gun out and it took care of the trouble spots, with the heat gun the other side took like 15 min.


I can take pictures of items on the scale if anyone is interested



Davegt27

bkuehl

Those progress radius rod sphericals wear out really fast, just a warning.

davegt27

Thanks for the heads up

They are tiny that's for sure


Davegt27

bkuehl

No problem. When the current set wears out, I'll probably talk to Kingpin machine about a set of theirs.

davegt27

Their stuff looks good I will save that web site


Rear lights weigh 2lbs, center light 2.5 lbs

Rear bumper bracket 16.5


davegt27

Xian

I've got the Kingpin stuff on my EF... absolutely top-notch and lasts much longer than Progress.

bkuehl

Any idea how much bigger the ABWT10 bearings are compared to the COM-10T that everyone else uses? I have a space limited application in mind.

davegt27

quarter window glass


I gutted both doors except the crash beams

Glass 7 lbs
Roll up mechanism 4 lbs
Inner door skin 5 lbs left side and 9 lbs right side,

another one of my screw ups was getting a 90 right side replacement door so part of that door is double thickness so that's the reason for the extra right door weight


next I put on my roads race slicks from my Opel GT



They stick out pretty far so I don't know what to do about fender flares




Davegt27

chrisb

Same OD ~1.1875 just wider at .567" for the race width and .75" for the ball width. Progress uses a metric COM series bearing IIRC. About 25-33% of the cost of the ABWT10. You can find all the specs for those bearings on the various manufacturer's websites though.

bkuehl

Yeah, I realized I could just do the research myself right after posting that.
Just looked at the specs. Looks like they'd work just fine. Sorry for hijacking OP, back to your scheduled programming

davegt27

Front bumper cover 11 lbs

Fenders 5 lbs
Hood 37 lbs

Head lights and housing 3.5 lbs per side

Bumper brackets 2lbs for both sides

5 mph bumper bracket 16.5 lbs

David

davegt27

I had to make some L brackets to hold the rear bumper so that is done

I had some left over 1/4 Lexan so I made some quarter windows, they came out only 1lb less than stock so I will have to try again with some 1/8 Lexan



Stock battery 28lbs

tray that holds Batt is 1lb with bolts that is


Front cross member that holds the stay rods and Trans mount 17 lbs.

stock radiator with fan is 13 lbs

Miscellaneous stuff like marker lights, covers, and headlight wiring no nuts and bolts 9 lbs (I keep adding to this number with other small bits)



Davegt27