brake fluid
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Re: brake fluid (slow91crx)
What are you going to be doing with the car? The $6/qt Valvoline Synthetic should be good enough for street driving or autox. For some track days (depending on track layout, mostly) or road racing, you'd need something designed for higher temps.
#4
Re: brake fluid (slow91crx)
I have used the Valvoline Synthetic at all my track events and have been very pleased, it has never let me down even on some tracks that are very hard on brakes. Its is a DOT4 fluid whith a pretty high boiling point. DOT 5 fluid cannot be mixed with DOT 3 fluid, if you are stuck on getting a dot 5 fluid get dot5.1 it plays better with other dot fluids.
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Re: brake fluid (Solracer)
You can see boiling points for all the most popular brake fluids in this topic.
I've been very happy with Motul RBF 600.
I've been very happy with Motul RBF 600.
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something different
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i had a mixture of valvoline synthetic and OLD fluid (like 100,000+miles, 8 years old or more) in my car...and it BOILED to hell at my last track day. the fluid in the lines, except one line, was all OLD.
i'd either go with the valvoline or ATE super blue. thats what i'm running now, and it seems good. i'm going to bleed my brakes before this next track day(may 24) and see how the super blue has done over the last 1000 or so miles....but the stuff seems great.
i'd either go with the valvoline or ATE super blue. thats what i'm running now, and it seems good. i'm going to bleed my brakes before this next track day(may 24) and see how the super blue has done over the last 1000 or so miles....but the stuff seems great.
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#9
Re: brake fluid (nsxtasy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I've been very happy with Motul RBF 600.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not as big of an issue with autocrossing... but I've been very happy with the Motul for track days.
For autocross you probably won't see a great difference since you're not going to really be heating up the system... one run, done, park; repeat.
However if you're ever considering track days, then I'd suggest Motul.
Have fun.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not as big of an issue with autocrossing... but I've been very happy with the Motul for track days.
For autocross you probably won't see a great difference since you're not going to really be heating up the system... one run, done, park; repeat.
However if you're ever considering track days, then I'd suggest Motul.
Have fun.
#10
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Re: (redzcstandardhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had a mixture of valvoline synthetic and OLD fluid (like 100,000+miles, 8 years old or more) in my car...and it BOILED to hell at my last track day. the fluid in the lines, except one line, was all OLD.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why the boiling temperatures, shown in that other topic, are important. The higher the boiling temperature of your fluid, the more resistant it is to boiling.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture over time, and this lowers its boiling point. The "dry" boiling temperature is the boiling temperature when the fluid is fresh from the bottle/can. The "wet" boiling temperature is the boiling temperature after the fluid has been sitting in the car for a period of time.
If you flush (replace) your fluid regularly, then you can probably just refer to the dry boiling point when selecting a fluid. If you leave your fluid in for longer periods of time (like the two years that the maintenance schedule recommends), then the wet boiling point may be equally important to you.
Using higher-temperature fluid is a good strategy, because, well, it means that your fluid will be less likely to boil (like I just mentioned).
Using fresh fluid is also a good strategy because it means that the boiling point of the fluid should be fairly close to its dry boiling point, rather than its wet boiling point. My "rule of thumb" is that when I go to the track, I like to have had my brake fluid flushed within the previous 6-8 months. Here in the north, where our track season is April through October, I just flush it every spring, at the start of the season. If I lived further south and tracked year round, I would probably flush twice a year.
For maximum protection against boiling, do both: make sure your fluid is reasonably fresh, and use high-boiling-temperature fluid.
That's why the boiling temperatures, shown in that other topic, are important. The higher the boiling temperature of your fluid, the more resistant it is to boiling.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture over time, and this lowers its boiling point. The "dry" boiling temperature is the boiling temperature when the fluid is fresh from the bottle/can. The "wet" boiling temperature is the boiling temperature after the fluid has been sitting in the car for a period of time.
If you flush (replace) your fluid regularly, then you can probably just refer to the dry boiling point when selecting a fluid. If you leave your fluid in for longer periods of time (like the two years that the maintenance schedule recommends), then the wet boiling point may be equally important to you.
Using higher-temperature fluid is a good strategy, because, well, it means that your fluid will be less likely to boil (like I just mentioned).
Using fresh fluid is also a good strategy because it means that the boiling point of the fluid should be fairly close to its dry boiling point, rather than its wet boiling point. My "rule of thumb" is that when I go to the track, I like to have had my brake fluid flushed within the previous 6-8 months. Here in the north, where our track season is April through October, I just flush it every spring, at the start of the season. If I lived further south and tracked year round, I would probably flush twice a year.
For maximum protection against boiling, do both: make sure your fluid is reasonably fresh, and use high-boiling-temperature fluid.
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