Littleton

I'm trying to determine what spring rates to go with for road racing this year with my Civic Hatch. I use to run an integra and ran 900 lbs front and 1100 in the rear. I didn't know if anyone with experience with the Civic Hatch in high level road racing competition would comment. I was thinking of going 700 or 800 in the front and 1000 in the rear.

-Thanks

solo-x

700/1000 sounds good. i run 600lb front springs on my 93 coupe in a street tire autocross class so you may be able to go even higher if you have a good damper, but it shouldn't be necessary.

nate

95GSRRacer

I would like chime in on this one if wspr22 doesn't mind...

I had a 95 GSR with 450f/615r, 22mm ITR rear anti-sway bar, and Azenis tires that I ran for a year in STS. Now this car is totaled and I bought a 92 Civic Si HB.

Please let me know if this is too much of a spread for daily driving, Solo 2, and track days: 280f/450r with a 15mm rear anti-sway.

The GSR was fairly neutral with the ability to oversteer when needed. I am looking for a similar setup for the Civic. Any feedback?

wspr22: Are you running any anti-sway bars? And please let me know if you want me to remove the above from YOUR thread. Thanks


[Modified by 95GSRRacer, 6:35 PM 2/24/2003]

krbobcat

That sounds good to me for the front but a bit high for the rear.
700/800 sounds better or maybe 700/900.

Littleton

Solo 2 and Road racing have to be looked at differently. Mainly, solo 2 is more of a salom skiing event. You get a walk thru, sometimes a practice run. You are more likely to be driving over the limit in solo 2 than road racing. So with this and thru expereince in the past with solo2 I try to make my car unstable. In the past I used a suspension techniques rear sway bar only. I used a type r rear sway bar once and tore the sub frame (on an airport runway solo 2 race). I always tried to make the rear as stiff as possible and maximize grip on the front. I found that for solo2 and not for the street or the road to remove the front sway bar. I also made sure my rake was at atleast 1.25 inches. This helped a lot. Other people who I knew that ran the GSR''s also removed the stock front tie bar but kept the front sway bar (the one that bolted into the sub frame and not to the front suspenson). This helps makes the car unstable but able to pivot on a dime. Also, have to learn not to turn and brake hard but to brake in a straight line and let off the throttle and let the front in bite and make the turn. So to recap, I found great success in using a rear lower Comptech tie bar, rear sway bar atleast 24mm, remove the front sway bar and tie bar. Set the rear shocks to very stiff and the front to a medium to low stiff and work on that rake angle. Don't over due the raek angle because then you will be pushing over 1400 lbs of vertical load on the outside wheels in a turn and its a point were your car can not make the maxium turn due to fictional loss or goig beyond the amount of g'2 your car can handle. Also, if you can, use steel brake lines and a very high performance brake fuild during the summer. This explains why some people times fall off after their first run. I hope this helps.

Littleton

Thanks krbobcat.

I'm going to go with the 700/900 setup.

Good Luck to all this season. And please have some fun doing it!!!!