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I'm currently building a 1990 Civic Si for WCMA, PTE class hopefully. Car is currently at Hardluck Fabrications getting a roll cage. I'll be competing in Gimli, MB, as well as Edmonton, AB this year if all goes well.
It has a DOHC D16 out of an 88? Integra, GC coilovers, an aftermarket header, and I intend to run 205 NT01s.
Currently I have 13 points, so I'll need to pick up another 7-26 to fit into the class properly. Once the car is back from the cage I'll know how many points I'll get for weight reduction.
The first question I have is in regards to exhaust, what style of muffler has the appropriate back pressure for roadrace, I don't want straight pipe obviously but I don't know enough about how back pressure affects these cars to make up my mind.
Thanks for any and all assistance.
Indeed, just looking for opinions, I'm doing my required reading as well. The car has a 4-2-1 type header already, I don't recall the brand as it was installed on the car when I purchased it, but I know it is of good design.
I'm unsure currently, I've emailed the classing director for WCMA for information. It wouldn't surprise me if they allowed this swap without reclassing, as both the 88 integra and 90 Si are the same weight and base class. But I'll post when I find out for sure.
That engine would be a b-series, which would make sense if it came from an Integra. Just keep that in mind if you are thinking of replacing the header. Might want to take a better look at the stamp on the block and verify the specific version.
It is a D16A1.
From Wiki-
D16A1
Found in:
1986–89 Acura Integra (USA)
Bore and Stroke: see D16 Series Engines
Displacement: see D16 Series Engines
Valvetrain: DOHC 16-valve (four valves per cylinder)
Fuel Control : PGMFI
CG Gearbox – Cable Transmission
Apologies, car came back from the cage a while back, I'll put up some pictures and a more in depth update when I'm home to work on it this weekend. This weekend the 2nd coat of paint will be going on the cage and hopefully I'll work on refitting the dash. Window net has been ordered as has the seat, but both are on backorder currently. Only thing I need that I have left to purchase safety-wise is fire suppression, although I may end up just having a fire extinguisher for the first season here(tax season has not been pleasant).
Also apologies to earl, I was misinformed on the motor, it is a ZC, not an A1. Still not a B-series but quite a bit more powerful than the OE motor. As such I will be booking some dyno time to reclass as appropriate, hopefully next month.
Better update will follow in a few days.
Well I completely forgot about this.. Anyhow got the car together for last October, threw a rod through the block after 10 laps, so the ZC is in scrap now. Over the winter I rebuilt a D16A6 and got it in. I've raced three events with only minor problems. Last weekend was the latest, it went well for most of the first day but during the last race I had the meatball waved at me, pulled into the pits to hear an interesting sound. Turns out the ring gear separated from the OEM flywheel.. Anybody ever hear of that before? ��
Anyhow here are a couple of pictures of the finished car.
This off season I'm learning to chip tune the car and it'll be getting a couple things to dial in the suspension, including an aftermarket rear swaybar and fresh bushings. Should be fun
Out of curiosity I browsed through the WCMA website for a bit. Who ever is in charge of road racing in Alberta and Manitoba, they get it, if you know what I mean. We, here in Ontario, are not as fortunate. Its a mess. It is nice to see that road racing is doing okay somewhere in this country.
Also, good start with the car. I look forward to seeing more updates.
So I'm going to bring this thread back from the dead over the next couple of months since I'm making some pretty significant updates to the car.
Over the last couple of years I have attended around 12 race weekends with it, all at Gimli Motorsports Park. Across the seasons there have been several significant changes to the rule book for the classing, in 2018 the spec club class was eliminated and replaced with WCMA PTF, permitting slightly more freedom with some modifications.
I always had someone to race through 2017 and 2018 so I wasn't too concerned when the rule book was again changed going into 2019, this time fully adopting the ST rules from NASA. The majority of cars at Gimli remained in the lowest class offered, ST6, myself included. This new class meant that now the primary balancing would be in the form of Dyno proven power to weight ratios.
Unfortunately I grossly overestimated the output of my D16A6, and considering that the nearest approved dyno was over 600 km from my home (and on the way to the track) I only learned the true output of 89 whp on race weekend. That put my power to weight at around 24:1, instead of the specified 18:1, I was 30 whp down on what I could have made!
That weekend was honestly a huge disappointment, even though I was putting down PBs all weekend (on some truly terrible MAXXIS race tires at that) I was still 3-4 seconds away from anyone else out there. Having turned home feeling defeated I decided to get the car to the absolute limit of the class and hopefully I can be competitive again.
Unfortunately thanks to real life that means that I will be taking this season off to afford all of the improvements.
The list includes a Colt Tri-flow 2 Cam, a Swirlpot to eliminate fuel slosh, OBD1 conversion followed by a proper dyno tune (the tuner uses Crome and is unfamiliar with OBD0). I also will be updating the vehicles safety gear including a fire suppression system, new harness and seat.
I spent the 2019 season beating my personal best by 2-3 seconds... but the entire field was doing it. i feel your pain.
part of racing is the mental game and the plan. I encourage you to develop a plan ASAP and set your goals. I'm not saying you are a bad driver, but if the car is built to the maximum of the rules, focus your goals on your driving. Do you have data on board? Are you using it? Are you the only honda out there? How do you compare with others? Im my situation, i have a lot of personal work (driver modifications) to do, but also a lot of minor tweaking to the car.
I'm not saying you are a bad driver, but if the car is built to the maximum of the rules, focus your goals on your driving..
That's actually the primary issue, my car is absolutely nowhere near the maximum of the rules. I need to pick up around 35-40 hp to be even with the other cars out there. When the restrictions were tighter I consistently had cars to race, but since then I haven't made any real changes to the car.
As to the data, I don't have much past the TrackAddict App.
Here's a bit of a photo dump from the first race weekend of the year, as well as with the new Konig Dial In wheels.
The first race weekend of the year was a mixed bag which found us travelling over 900 km from Regina to Edmonton for a full weekend of racing at Castrol Raceway. On Saturday we ran the car in the race school with our second driver and the car ran perfectly through the day.
Sunday was the day of the 3 hour endurance race, and while we did start in last we were able to make two positions in the first 3 laps. Unfortunately the car began to overheat and we had to return to the pits on the fourth lap. We attempted to remedy the issue, but when we returned to the track after 45 minutes we were dozens of laps down, and the car could only make 4 more laps before we had to return to the pits. We tried to get out one last time after allowing the car to cool down and bleeding the cooling system but once again only managed 4 laps. Looking into it found it to be a failed head gasket which has caused these problems and ultimately led to us retiring from the race.
After dealing with the failed head gasket and installing ARP head studs, we took the car out to Gimli, MB for the second race weekend of the year. Fortunately (and very surprisingly) the car ran perfectly all weekend, allowing is to focus on things we haven't in a long while like tires and chassis setup, and just overall seat time. We had a few tire sets to try out, our 195 wide Hankook RS4s we use for endurance racing, a new set of 205 wide Toyo RA1s, and a new set of 205 wide Toyo R888r's. In the Saturday practice sessions we heat cycled the two Toyo sets, then ran the Hankooks for the rest of the day. I have to say I really like the RS4s in general, they should be a bit slower than the 100tw tires we could have run, but they have predictable grip and if you overheat them they come right back after taking it easy for a lap. We were targeting hot pressures around 35 psi, but found them to be very happy in the 33-38 psi range. Tire temps show that even on the RS4s the car really needs more camber, especially so on the rear, so we'll be making some setup changes soon.
On Sunday we gave the R888r's a try, targeting 32-38psi hot as per Toyo's site, however, while the grip and slip angle felt great in the car they were seriously lacking in actual capability, at least across the pressures we tried (36, 34, and 32 psi). I found that I was 2 full seconds a lap slower on the R888r's than even the smaller 200tw RS4s, and the data shows a huge 0.2-0.3G deficiency in overall cornering forces. If you have run or do run the R888r's please give me your feedback, as well as what kind of temps and pressures you target, and setup preferences because I really can't see this being the tire's fault. We never ended up running the RA1s as we were focused on trying to get the R888r's working right.
Overall the car felt good, with great rotation when trailbraking and good balance through and out of the corners, but a few changes can be made. I'll be increasing the camber to at least -3 front and rear, and probably setting the toe slightly differently as well. Overall it was a good weekend and I will have a few pictures to add in the near future.
For the past year I've been using LightBug Pro GPS trackers to keep my cars, equipment and trailers safe from being lost to theft, especially when they're in storage like now. I'm a big fan of the small size, and exceptional battery life measured in years not months. Considering the time I've put into this car I can't imagine it getting stolen and not being able to get it back, so the peace of mind I get from having the LightBug installed is well worth it.
01-20-2016, 09:06 AM
2016 PTE Build for WCMA-1990 Civic Si
Re: 2016 PTE Build for WCMA-1990 Civic Si
