replacing oil drain plug crush washer
 

I usually don't change the oil darin plug washer w/my oil change. Most of the time it's fine but once in awhile I'll have to reloosen and retighten to make the washer sit right, otherwise it might have a droplet around the washer.

On this particular oil change I decided to go to my local Honda dealer and purchase a new washer. To my surprise the washer was different from the previous one on the hatch. The original washer sits tightly on the oil drain bolt and as a inner uneven ring in the middle that lines up the oil pan. This particular washer (p/n 5 W-washer replacing 94109-14000), did not have the inner circle and fit loose on the oil drain plug(did not have to screw on like the older washer) ,it's flat so it will sit flush w/the oil pan. Is this a new part, like how they decide that all Honda's will use the smaller oil filter instead of the previous one? I also purchased the Honda oil filter and noticed that the inner nipple was metal instead of paper like the previous filter(Fram).

This washer cost $.19 from mail order, but local dealership charges $1.40 https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emhammer.gif


Modified by todaCspec at 4:09 PM 12/17/2003

Re: replacing oil drain plug crush washer (todaCspec)
 

I bought 10 for $0.11 each from my local Honda parts dept. Shop around if you can.

I think the flange-like appearance on the old one could be due to it molding into that shape when it was tightened down. The washer is a fairly soft metal, that expands and contracts as the pan heats and cools, maintaining a seal.

I think if you torque that one down the same amount of your old one (it was probably a little over tightened), then come back to check it after the same amount of time, it might also have that flangelike shape.

While my old ones arent flanged, they are always flatter than the new one.

Honda gets its filters from different manufacturers (Fram being one of them). There are two sizes that will work on the EP3, one short and the other longer. I prefer to use the longer one (the Fram model for the base RSX) because its easier to get the filter wrench around it. When you use the bigger filter, you have to add a little more oil.

Re: replacing oil drain plug crush washer (hatch2k)
 

Per Honda, always replace the drain plug "crush washer," If you can't AFFORD to, replace at every other interval.

Drain plug K20A3 34ft/lbs------------steel oil pan. https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsad.gif
Drain plug K20A2 29ft/lbs------------aluminum oil pan. https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emsmile.gif

Re: replacing oil drain plug crush washer (todaCspec)
 

it's a crush washer. it's made "squish" to seal the bolt to the pan. it can be used more than once, but shouldn't. it costs next to nothing. use a new one.
peter

Re: (racerdc5)
 

make 1 trip to the dealer, by enough for 3 years of oil changes, be done with it

Re: (swazi)
 

my https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/acura1.gif dealer charges $.80 each, that bastard

Re: (racerdc5)
 

You don't need to replace the bolt. But the spoon magnetic bolts work great. I have it on my car.

Re: replacing oil drain plug crush washer
 

Which side of the washer should go toward the PAN? I have see conflicting instruction. The washer has a FLAT (with sharper edges) and a more rounded side.
Thanks