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D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
12 Attachment(s)
Hope this helps someone out. I'm rebuilding this engine for my co-worker, and decided to do a general step by step. So here it goes......
Here is the block tore down and I decided to hone it a little to break the shine in the cylinder walls. Attachment 446563 Before Attachment 446564 I'm just using a basic honing tool I picked up at harbor freight. I'm using mineral oil while doing the honing. Remember your not trying to bore out the block, just break the glaze and put a nice cross hatch. Attachment 446565 After Attachment 446566 When you finish with all the cylinders, clean the block inside and out really good with warm soapy water, rinse and blow or air dry. But make sure you wipe down the cylinder walls with oil or WD40 to keep them from rusting. Now once dry you can set in your new main bearings as shown. NOTE: On this particular block I chose to run with a standard set of KING engine bearings as the crank and rods have never been damaged. You have the option to rung OEM bearings in your engine, there are codes on the inside edge of the block in the flywheel area and codes on the crank and rods. Here is a honda chart for this. http://www.6thgearadvertising.com/mi...ring_chart.jpg http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...c/IMG_6809.jpg Now we can set the crank in place so we can check the main bearing clearances. make sure the bearings are dry and DO NOT rotate the crank while you do this. Attachment 446567 Cut and set all 5 plasti-gauge strips on each main journal. Attachment 446568 Install the upper main bearings and install the housing. Attachment 446569 Install the main bolts, and dip the threads in clean oil. Attachment 446570 Tightening sequence Attachment 446571 step#1 32ftlbs Step#2 53ftlbs Attachment 446572 Remove cradle and check the clearances. All 5 of mine came in perfect at .0014" Attachment 446573 Now we will check each rod bearing clearance. cut and lay down your plasti-gauge on the rod journal Attachment 446574 |
Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
31 Attachment(s)
Install the new rod bearings.
Attachment 446532 when you slide the piston on to the bore make sure the arrow is facing the timing belt side of the motor. no ring will be installed on the piston at this time. be careful when your installing not to scratch anything. Attachment 446533 Tighten the rod bolts to 23ftlbs. Attachment 446534 Remove the cap and check the clearance. All 4 of my rods cam out right at .0015" Attachment 446535 Once all 4 are done remove the crank and rotate the engine over so we can check ring end gap now. Attachment 446536 Attachment 446537 Install your top ring and make sure any markings on the ring are facing up. Attachment 446538 Use the piston to push the ring down square in the block as I did here. Attachment 446539 Use a feeler gauge to check the ring end gap. I was shooting for .012" Attachment 446540 Attachment 446541 Now check the 2nd ring, here is a closeup of the marking on the ring that needs to be facing up. Attachment 446542 Check the gap with the feeler gauge as well. I was going for .018" Attachment 446543 Attachment 446544 Now check the oil control rings. mine came in at .025" Attachment 446545 Attachment 446546 Attachment 446547 Now that we checked all the rings, lets install them on each piston as shown here. Attachment 446548 Make sure and coat each piston with fresh oil and do the same for each cylinder bore. I used a basic ring compressor here. Attachment 446549 Attachment 446550 Attachment 446551 Now rotate the block over and lets lube up all the bearing surfaces so we can set in the crankshaft. Attachment 446552 Attachment 446553 Install your thrust bearings with the notches facing out. Attachment 446554 Install the crankshaft Attachment 446555 Slide each rod in place and tighten to 23ftlbs Attachment 446556 Once all rods are tightened down, install the crank cradle Attachment 446557 Tighten to spec, step#1 18ftlbs step#2 38ftlbs Attachment 446558 Apply a little sealant to your new oil pump as shown. Install the oil pump and the oil pump pickup. make sure you use a fresh gasket on the pickup. Just hand tighten snug but do not over do it. Attachment 446559 Attachment 446560 Attachment 446561 Attachment 446562 |
Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Damn shit load of pics popped.
Thanks for sharing. I'm bookmarking this in case I get mine rebuilt. Thanks again |
Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Great job.
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
14 Attachment(s)
apply a little sealant to the rear main seal housing as shown here. And install the cover. Snug up all 4 10mm bolts
Attachment 446518 Attachment 446519 Now flip the engine over and install your clean oil pan with a fresh gasket. I just hand tighten the bolts here. maybe 9ftlbs Attachment 446520 Install oil filter. Attachment 446521 Install your water pump tube, make sure you use new rubber seals. you dont want these to leak after its installed. Attachment 446522 Install the thermostat housing with thermostat installed. Attachment 446523 Install your PVC box as shown. apply a little sealant to the rubber gasket and slide into block. Attachment 446524 Install your fresh new water pump, making sure your gasket is in place. Attachment 446525 Install your dowl pins in the top of the block. Attachment 446526 Now set your head gasket in place. I used a light high temp copper spray on mine to help seal any imperfections in the head block surface. Attachment 446527 Time to install the freshly rebuilt head, This head has been surfaced for flatness, 3 angle valve job and new valve stem seals installed. My block was true and flat. Make sure your block and head are flat!! if not have it decked and or resurfaced. Attachment 446528 Attachment 446529 Install your headbolts and make sure you coat the threads and washers in fresh oil. Attachment 446530 tighten the headbolts step#1 32ftlbs step#2 53ftlbs Attachment 446531 |
Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Niceee
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
:thumbup: good write up
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Ok I did this a few times on a A6 first and then on a Z6... There is one critical part you forgot.. You can toss away that plasti gauge bs shit away... Its a waste of time.. On the side of your z6/a6 or any honda block where the flywheel is there is capital letters and on the crank you use of this engine block there are # or its the other way around but what you do is go to honda dealer and get the bearing code list paper they have it and it tells you how to order new bearings for your honda engine if you use the right color bearing and I highly stress that all you guys rebuilding engines should use oem honda bearings the aftermarket shit is not as accurate and is inferrior to oem honda bearings.. John Deere tractors use the same bearings as honda and they are also coated the same way.. I have used a ACL crank and bearing kit on a A6 and it failed horribly.. USE OEM HONDA BEARINGS ONLY.... It will cost you around 200$ for all bearings but its well worth it.. SO use them codes and get your z6 or other honda engine built the right way.. Its all ready measure so all you need is the right color.. Bearing are cheaper for the D16Y engines because they are much newer the Z6/A6 bearings cost the same.. Unless you work at honda and you can do what you want..
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Also want to add since its all torn apart you should of got the head decked and the block expecially if you are going to turbo the car or N/A.
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
NICE WRITEUP, seems like one or two of your pics don't match the description, of course I might be crazy. Pic #8 and #38 don't seem to match the description. #8 shows replacing the water pump and #38 shows replacing the oil breather box.
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Somebody put this in the FAQs!!!
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Originally Posted by grumblemarc
(Post 47260481)
Somebody put this in the FAQs!!!
Very helpful California Dad :thumbup: :drink: |
Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Originally Posted by nihad
(Post 47260209)
Ok I did this a few times on a A6 first and then on a Z6... There is one critical part you forgot.. You can toss away that plasti gauge bs shit away... Its a waste of time.. On the side of your z6/a6 or any honda block where the flywheel is there is capital letters and on the crank you use of this engine block there are # or its the other way around but what you do is go to honda dealer and get the bearing code list paper they have it and it tells you how to order new bearings for your honda engine if you use the right color bearing and I highly stress that all you guys rebuilding engines should use oem honda bearings the aftermarket shit is not as accurate and is inferrior to oem honda bearings.. John Deere tractors use the same bearings as honda and they are also coated the same way.. I have used a ACL crank and bearing kit on a A6 and it failed horribly.. USE OEM HONDA BEARINGS ONLY.... It will cost you around 200$ for all bearings but its well worth it.. SO use them codes and get your z6 or other honda engine built the right way.. Its all ready measure so all you need is the right color.. Bearing are cheaper for the D16Y engines because they are much newer the Z6/A6 bearings cost the same.. Unless you work at honda and you can do what you want..
#1 Price #2 Just about all the bearings were on a long back order. The standard king bearing are pretty close to honda green bearings. All my clearances ended up right in the middle of factory spec's. I feel more than confident that this engine will last a long time.
Originally Posted by HondaPartsHero
(Post 47260460)
NICE WRITEUP, seems like one or two of your pics don't match the description, of course I might be crazy. Pic #8 and #38 don't seem to match the description. #8 shows replacing the water pump and #38 shows replacing the oil breather box.
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
More to come here shortly
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Excellent resource. Will be using this for my engine build if I ever get around to it. The only issue I have is I'm not clear on where exactly the thrust washers go. But I'm sure when I'm ready I can Google it.
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by grumblemarc
(Post 47260976)
Excellent resource. Will be using this for my engine build if I ever get around to it. The only issue I have is I'm not clear on where exactly the thrust washers go. But I'm sure when I'm ready I can Google it.
Attachment 446513 |
Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
That's where I thought. Thanks. Everything else is laid out pretty clear so far. Top notch!
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Originally Posted by CaliforniaDad
(Post 47260712)
I understand, but my customer did not want go use OEM honda bearings for 2 reasons.
#1 Price #2 Just about all the bearings were on a long back order. The standard king bearing are pretty close to honda green bearings. All my clearances ended up right in the middle of factory spec's. I feel more than confident that this engine will last a long time. I'm not sure what your talking about I looked at the pictures and they match the text. Let me know again what you see. |
Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
nice write up! i learned a lot
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Originally Posted by nihad
(Post 47261279)
Hope it last a long time either way.. But after 5k take the oil pan off and check it out.... After I rebuilt my Z6 I took it apart later the next year and went threw the hole engine to make sure it all looked good and it did..
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
83 Attachment(s)
Okay the next thing we need to do is install the camshaft. But before you do that remove the camshaft gear and install a new camshaft seal.
Attachment 446398 Now lets coat all the surfaces with assembly lube. Attachment 446399 Put a thin layer of sealant here for the cam seal. Attachment 446400 Lay in the camshaft and lube all lobes as shown. Attachment 446401 Attachment 446402 Don't for get the oil control O-ring here. Attachment 446403 Install the upper half of the valvetrain Attachment 446404 Attachment 446405 Here is the tightening sequence Attachment 446406 The 8mm bolts 18ftlbs and the 6mm bolts snug hand tight, or 8ftlbs Attachment 446407 Attachment 446408 I like to use a little Gask-a-sinch on new seals, helps them stick in place. Now install the vtec solenoid. Attachment 446409 Attachment 446410 Install the remaining sensors into the head. Attachment 446411 Attachment 446412 Water neck and gasket installed next. I used gascasinch here as well. Attachment 446413 Attachment 446414 Install your intake manifold gasket, I used gascasinch here on both sides. Attachment 446415 Attachment 446416 Attachment 446417 here is the product im using. Attachment 446418 Install your intake manifold. Attachment 446419 Attachment 446420 Hook up your PVC and water lines. Attachment 446421 Attachment 446422 Attachment 446423 I forgot to install the timing cover before I dropped in the camshaft, So I just removed the cam-gear and re-installed the cover as shown. Attachment 446424 Install your timing belt tensioner pulley. Attachment 446425 Install your inner timing belt washer and timing gear. Attachment 446426 Attachment 446427 Now line up the cam gear on TDC as shown, as well as line up the crank gear at TDC. Attachment 446428 Attachment 446429 Install your timing belt like this, #1 crank #2 tensioner #3 water pump #4 cam gear. then rotate the cam 3 theeth to set tension on the belt, now tighten up the tensioner pulley bolt. Attachment 446430 Attachment 446431 Now we can adjust the valves. rotate the engine over to TDC #1. The adjustment will go like this. #1 then #3 them #4 then #2 Attachment 446432 Attachment 446433 Attachment 446434 I'm using this valve adjustment tool that works great on honda heads. Attachment 446435 Starting with number 1 cyl, im setting the lash at .008" and the exhaust at a .010" Attachment 446436 Attachment 446437 Attachment 446438 Attachment 446439 Once you have both intake and exhaust adjusted on cyl #1 rotate the crank as shown so you can do cyl #3 Attachment 446440 Attachment 446441 Same for Cyl #4 Attachment 446442 Then Cyl #2 Attachment 446443 Attachment 446444 Now install your valve cover gaskets and grommets. I also used a little gaskasinch on the gasket and the head. Attachment 446445 Attachment 446446 Don't forget a lil dab of sealant on the corners of the gasket at each curved point Attachment 446447 Now install the upper timing cover just under the valve cover as shown. Attachment 446448 Tighten the bolts on the timing cover and the valve cover. I just did then hand tight "snug" Attachment 446449 Attachment 446450 Install the crank pulley key and timing belt gear washer. Then install the lower part of the motor mount. 2 14mm bolts to 38ftlbs Attachment 446451 Attachment 446452 Install the lower timing cover and all the bolts hand tight. Attachment 446453 Install the crank pulley and crank pulley bolt. 134ft lbs Attachment 446454 Attachment 446455 You can install the alternator and all the alternator brackets. Attachment 446456 Attachment 446457 Attachment 446458 Attachment 446459 Install your exhaust manifold gasket. I prayed mine in a ultra high temp copper spray. Attachment 446460 Install your exhaust manifold and cover as shown. (hand tight) Attachment 446461 Attachment 446462 Attachment 446463 Install the power steering mounting bracket. Attachment 446464 Lets get it off the engine stand so we can get the flywheel and clutch installed before we attached the trans. Attachment 446465 Install the flywheel and apply a little blue lock tight on the bolt threads, tighten to 87ft lbs Attachment 446466 Install the clutch using a honda alignement tool. tighten the bolt to 22ft lbs Attachment 446467 Attachment 446468 Attachment 446469 Install your transmission and tighten all the bolts to factory spec. Attachment 446470 Now is a good time to install the engine wiring harness. Attachment 446471 Lets get the bad boy stuffed back in the car. Attachment 446472 All the next pictures are just hooking up all the remaining item to the engine. Attachment 446473 Attachment 446474 Attachment 446475 Attachment 446476 Attachment 446477 Attachment 446478 Attachment 446479 Attachment 446480 The rest is just hoses and vacuum lines ect ect. Well here it is!!! Sounds and runs so smooth. Not a leak in sight and smooth as a baby butt. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cr347...ature=youtu.be |
Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
great write up
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
gonna be cracken VTEC like a CHAMP. (well ...Sohc vtec ;))
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Very nice write up. Came out great.
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Re: D16Z6 Engine Rebuild (pictures)
Thanks! the Vtec on this engine doesn't seem to "hit" very hard. you can hardly feel it.
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