89 accord won't start (with key)
 

89 accord, manual t, carb,

will not start with key, all other electrical comes on with key, car is hotwired to starter to start and run.

I'm guessing it needs a new ignition switch, comments?

thanks

Re: 89 accord won't start (with key)
 

Personally, I'd check the clutch switch.....

Now I will back up a bit, with the key you turn to "start" and no power is sent to the small wire on the starter----correct?

Now back to the switch. There is a plastic plug the switch makes contact with, are you sure that plug is still there...find a strange plastic "crayon type thing" in the floor board. The clutch switch it way up high on the pedal...there are two, one for cruise and one is the inhibitor (for the starter)....

Re: 89 accord won't start (with key)
 

This is an old post so I hope the OP has figured out the problem.


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This forum has helped me out quite a bit so I feel compelled to contribute something. Unfortunately I don't have permission to start new topics yet so hopefully this is a good place to share my solution.


Replacing upper clutch pedal stopper

I recently had a no-start situation with my 1991 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder 5-speed manual transmission (MT).

Turning the key would bring all the lights up on the dash but I would only hear two soft relay clicks coming from under the dash and the faint hum of my fuel pump for a second or two.

After noticing the broken remnants of a blue plastic pedal stopper (plug - like a blue crayon tip) on my driver's side floormat I shined a light up into the dark crevice of the clutch pedal assembly (had to depress the clutch a little) and saw the hole where the plug had been - all the way up at the top of the pedal.

Pedal stoppers are soft little rubber-like plastic plugs that provide a contact surface for plunger switches (e.g. brake lights):

Honda PAD, PEDAL STOPPER part number # 46505-SA5-000


There are two pedal stoppers for my 91 Accord: an easy-to-reach lower stopper for the "clutch switch" that works with the cruise control, and an upper stopper for the "clutch interlock switch" that prevents the car from being started in gear by making sure that the clutch is depressed before sending power to the starter solenoid.

Attachment 535244

I tried a few different strategies in order to install the new (white) plastic stopper including using tape and/or wire on the tip of a flathead screwdriver and threading a zip-tie with fishing line through the hole in order to draw the stopper home. Unforunately, none of these attempts were successful as the clearance was too tight for the stopper to get into the area without some force.

I ended up just taking the clutch assembly out of the car and using a combination of the fishing line and the screwdriver to install the plug. It was much easier to work with the clutch pedal out of the car. I would have saved a couple of hours if I had just taken to begin with.

Removing the clutch pedal is fairly easy.

There are only (2) nuts and (1) bolt (all 12mm) holding the pedal assembly to the firewall. Before you get to those bolts you'll have to free up some space by first disconnecting and removing the silver cruise control box ((2)10mm bolts) and then moving some bundled wires (ignition switch wire etc..) out of the way by disconnecting them from the fuse box. I only had to unplug one other large connector from the fuse box. They are snap-connectors so it's not difficult. You'll also need to disconnect the clutch master cylinder rod from the clutch pedal by removing the retaining cotter-pin and post.

Attachment 535245
Attachment 535246
Attachment 535247
Attachment 535248


Here are pics showing the removed clutch pedal assembly with the location of the clutch pedal plugs as well as the bolt holes.

Attachment 535249
Attachment 535250
Attachment 535251
Attachment 535252
Attachment 535253
Attachment 535254


IMPORTANT - be sure and plug in both clutch sensors before finally bolting clutch pedal assembly to firewall - there isn't any clearance to plug-in the "clutch switch" connector after bolt-up



If you can help it, I don't recomend disconnecting the clutch return spring because it was difficult to reinstall.

I ended up having to compress the spring and hold it with zip-ties until I could get it into position, then clip the zipties.

It was a huge PITA.

Here are a few pics.

Attachment 535255
Attachment 535256


As mentioned by others in other posts, it is possible to simply use a paperclip to jumper the connector for the clutch interlock switch instead of replacing the stopper but you'll have to be careful to not start the car in gear.

I prefer to have all of the safety features functional.

Having the pedal outside of the car also makes it easier to replace the plastic stoppers with something more durable like a bolt or a coin held with hot glue like others have suggested in other posts.

Hope this helps someone,
-PAC