Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion - [DIY] How to remove a B-series cylinder head

This is a short guide i'm going to do because i have all the pictures already.

This DIY will be handy if you are changing headgaskets, camshafts, valves etc..

Alright, you need a basic set of tools. This is my tool set, which obviously has more than you would need for a simple job like removing your cylinder head from the block.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2215.jpg

Once you have your tools, you can jack the car up or not. It's your choice. If you're tall, you may want the engine bay higher to work. If you're short, you may want the car on the ground. Personal preference.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2217.jpg

The first IMPORTANT step is to disconnect the battery terminals. If you don't do this, you can easily bump the wrong electrical connectors with a wrench or other tool and cause shorts, burn out fuses, create other problems.

The next step is to drain the coolant. Some people drain into a clean pan with the intention of re-using coolant. I say spend 14 bucks and get some new coolant upon reassembly, because it's cheap insurance for the longevity of your motor. Always dispose of coolant properly, and never leave it sitting un-attended where an animal could drink it. (Stupid animals... but on another note COOLANT IS SWEET AND TASTY. I removed a radiator cap under pressure while hot once, and the coolant exploded into my face. Sizable amounts made their way into my mouth and YES COOLANT DOES TASTE GOOD!)

Next step is to remove the distributor. I recommend you make a scratch to mark the where the distributor timing is set.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...DSCN2051m2.jpg

There are three 12mm bolts. The top is easily accessible by a 12mm wrench.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2051m.jpg

The second bolt is in the front, also 12mm. A socket w/extension will be the easiest for this.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2052m.jpg

Here's the third bolt. 12mm socket w/extension. Before you take this last bolt out, disconnect the two electrical connectors for the distributor. Snap connectors. Simple.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2053m.jpg

Snap connectors. Simple.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2056.jpg

This is what your head looks like without a distributor.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2054.jpg

Put your distributor someplace safe and out of the way. You do not have to remove the spark plug wires, this makes installation easier later.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2055.jpg

Next up we remove the top radiator hose and cooling neck. Removing the coolant neck is optional, but I think it makes things easier later. Here's the top bolt.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2057m.jpg

...And here's the bottom bolt. Leave the bleeder screw in and tight.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2058m.jpg

I recommend you leave the distributor/coolant neck bolts in the head. This makes them easier to find for reassembly and harder to lose.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2059.jpg

Put the coolant neck in the parts pile. Just like the distributor, we can leave the top radiator hose connected.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2060.jpg

Next up is the powersteering bracket on the front of the head. These are the two 14mm bolts for the bracket.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2061m.jpg

Before you remove the bracket, loosen the tension on the belt so we don't damage anything with the belt torque.. Here are the two pinch bolts..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2072.jpg

Here's the top pinch bolt.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2064.jpg

Best way to loosen it is a 12mm wrench, easily accessible from the front.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2065.jpg

Next up is the bottom 12mm pinch bolt. It's hard to reach and should be pretty tight.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2066.jpg

You may need a bar for added leverage with a 12mm socket.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2068.jpg

Now loosen the wingnut easily accessible on the top of the PS pump (not pictured) and then take the bracket off. Two 14mm bolts, easy with a breaker bar..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2062.jpg

Or a ratchet..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2063.jpg

The bolts are slightly different length..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2069.jpg

As you can see, the longer bolt goes on the left (passenger side of head). Shorter bolt on the right (driver side)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2070.jpg

Leave all the bolts in the right holes and put the PS bracket off with the other parts.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2071.jpg

Back to the other passenger side of the head... Unplug the coolant dashboard gauge sensor (single pin, lower left) the ECU coolant temp sensor (gray plug in hand) and the VTEC solenoid oil pressure sensor switch (green plug, top right) AAAND the VTEC spool valve plug (further up/forward out of the picture.)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2073.jpg

Now we have the wires out of the way, we can undo the heater-core hose with some needlenose pliers..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2074.jpg

Now we can see the passenger side of the head is clean and fully disconnected.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2075.jpg

Now lets get the valve cover out of the way. First up is the ground. 10mm
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2076.jpg

THIS BOLT STRIPS EASILY..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2077.jpg

Then it's the power steering line bracket on the rear driver-side of the head.. 10mm
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2079.jpg

This bolt also strips easily. We can leave the ground strap/PS line right where they are, as long as you can flex them out of the way of the head for removal/installation.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2080.jpg

Now we remove the eight valve cover nuts and grommets. They are all 10mm and the removal order is this...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2081m.jpg

All bolts removed, you should pry out all grommets and the metal dished retainers that hold them down.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2083.jpg

Put all these bolts/grommets/retainers in a bag so we don't lose them.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2082.jpg

After lifting the valve cover off, make sure you have one of these donut gaskets in each spark plug hole. And make sure the perimeter gasket came with the cover and did not stick to the head.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2084.jpg

Here's our head without the valve cover. Now we will remove the timing belt from the cam gears. This is the order I do everything in, you can mix things up if you'd like. I don't mess with TDC before removing my head, because I always set TDC during reassembly.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2085.jpg

Reach down underneath the driver side motor mount and you will find a 14mm tensioner bolt. If your timing cover is off, it's the only 14mm bolt on that side of the motor. If your timing cover is on, it may be hiding underneath a plastic plug. DIRECTLY BELOW MOTOR MOUNT. You can't see it in this picture...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2090.jpg

Here we go... 14mm socket w/extension is the best way I know to loosen it. WE ARE NOT REMOVING THIS BOLT. We are only unthreading the bolt a few turns to loosen the timing belt..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2091.jpg

This will take the tension off the belt, and you can slide it off the cams little by little.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2094.jpg

Once we have the belt off - we remove the header (exhaust manifold.) You may have a cover over your header it insulate heat. This cover does very little from a practical standpoint and I removed mine years ago. If you have a cover, there are three 12mm bolts holding it to the header. This is the order we undo the 9 exhaust manifold bolts.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2096m.jpg

A 12mm socket will get to most of the bolts - They are actually nuts because the header hangs on the studs but fck the rhetoric..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2095.jpg

A 12mm socket on a 3/8" breaker bar will work for the ones you can't fit a ratchet into...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2098.jpg

Remove the oil-dipstick at this point and put it in the parts pile..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2099.jpg

We have to get creative with the bolt close to the dipstick, but I'm sure you can figure it out...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2101.jpg

Here's the exhaust manifold with all the nuts removed from the studs. We can leave the header hanging on the studs for now.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2102.jpg

Leave the header just like this for now..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2130.jpg

Put your nuts in a bag and keep them safe. Same with your tool. Put it in a bag and keep it safe. STDs are no fun. SIDE NOTE: THERE ARE MORE NUTS THAN PICTURED HERE, I WAS MISSING ONE
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2103.jpg

As an aside, there may be a bracket on the front of your block holding the header/block together. I don't have this, but if you do you will have to remove it. 14mm easily accessible from the front of the car. You can remove the bracket from the block or the header, it doesn't matter. You can even remove it from both, and put it in your parts pile to impress your girlfriend if you want.. There is also a bracket on the back of the block that everyone will have. It has two 12mm bolts holding the header to the block. You may be able to flex the header off the head studs later without removing this bracket. If you can't - remove the two 12mm nuts/bracket and the 12/14mm clamps holding the exhaust pipe to the header. Crawl under your car - you'll see what I mean.

Now is the tricky part. It's time to move to the back of the head. Remove the thermostat housing and the thermostat - this isn't necessary, but makes things easier. I recommend it.. Remove the ground and the temperature sensor as indicated. The ground is a 10mm and the plug is another snap connector.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2111m.jpg

The ground is 10mm..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2116.jpg

Snap connector...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2118.jpg

Now we remove the lower radiator hose with needlenose pliers...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2117.jpg

If the hose wont come off (or any hose won't come off) try grabbing the hose with slipjoint pliers and moderate pressure and rotating the hose until you feel it come 'un-stuck' and then it will slide right off..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2113.jpg

Now we remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing. 10mm on the top...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2116.jpg

And a 10mm on the bottom.. Socket and extension for this one..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2119m.jpg

Take off the thermostat housing/gasket/thermostat (I didn't have one installed) and put them in the parts pile.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2122.jpg

Now we remove the coolant bypass hose from the intake manifold with needlenose pliers.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2124.jpg

And then the intake manifold vacuum line pre-heater with the same needlenose. You can see here that these long bent needlenose come in handy.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2126m.jpg

Next up is the intake manifold bolts (just like the exhaust manifold - these are studs with nuts on them if you want to get technical.) You can get to the top bolts easily with a wrench. (12mm)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2105m.jpg

Here are the bottom bolts..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2109m.jpg

This is on the bottom row, furthest to the driver side..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2106.jpg

And this is the corresponding bolt (not pictured in bottom row either) all the way on the passenger side.. This is probably the hardest bolt to reach on the whole project. Crack it with a 12mm wrench..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2127.jpg

And then spin it off with your fingers..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2128.jpg

Assuming you got all the 12mm intake manifold bolts off, the manifold should be loose enough to flex out of the way... There is a bracket which holds the block to the intake manifold, and the bolts for this bracket can be found on the bottom of the intake manifold. You may need to unbolt the intake manifold from this bracket with the three 12mm bolts underneath the intake manifold. I do not have this bracket on my car, so it's not pictured.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2131.jpg

Add your intake manifold nuts to the parts pile, individually bagged so you don't lose any. SIDE NOTE: THERE MAY BE MORE BOLTS THAN PICTURED I WAS MISSING ATLEAST ONE.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2129.jpg

Now take a break, smoke some crack, drink a few energy drinks, crank up Tupac and get your head right for the final few steps.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2132.jpg

Time to remove the cam rails so we can get the cams out of the way and get at the headbolts. They are all 10/12mm bolts and here is the order to loosen them.. I recommend you loosen the four red X's first
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2133m.jpg

Here are the four red X bolts, easily accessible with a 10mm wrench..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2137.jpg

The rest are easily wrenchable..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2134.jpg

Or you can use a socket, but you will need a deep socket when you get to the tall bolts that the valve cover is held down by (pictured between index and ring finger)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2135.jpg

Leave all the bolts in the holes - but fully unscrewed so you can lift them up and out if you had to..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2138.jpg

Get the idea?
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2143.jpg

If the cam rail you are working on doesn't come free by lifting up with all the bolts free - tap it lightly with a rubber mallet. DO NOT USE A REGULAR HAMMER. Aluminum is very soft and you can easily damage it. It should only take a very light tap if all the bolts are removed.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2139.jpg

Remove the cam rail you did first...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2140.jpg

Add it to the parts pile being careful not to mix up any of the cam rail bolts...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2141.jpg

Same procedure for the other cam rail (doesn't matter which one you do first..) The small end bolts by the cam gears...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2142.jpg

Then get all the other bolts loose...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2144.jpg

Add it to the parts pile without mixing up the intake and exhaust cam rails..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2145.jpg

Here's what we see.. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: THERE IS A SMALL METAL SLEEVE FOR THE OIL PASSAGE ON THE MIDDLE CAM HOLDER. IT MAY STAY IN THE HEAD, OR IT MAY COME OUT WITH THE CAM HOLDER. DO NOT LOSE THIS OR YOU WILL HAVE MAJOR PROBLEMS. THIS TINY METAL SLEEVE IS LESS THAN A CENTIMETER LONG AND WILL EASILY BE LOST IF YOU DONT KEEP TRACK OF IT. The sleeve location is circled in this picture. You cannot see the sleeve itself, but it goes into the marked hole and corresponding hole on the cam holder..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2162m.jpg

Now for the cam holders. A light tap with a RUBBER mallet should free these up. DON'T MIX THEM UP.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2146.jpg

FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THINGS HONDA DO NOT PRY THESE OFF. THIS IS WRONG WRONG WRONG AND YOU WILL BE PUNISHED.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2160.jpg

There are markings which tell you which cam holder goes where, you may want to take note. They denote which holder goes where in relation to the cylinders.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2152.jpg

Another marking...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2151.jpg

You get the idea. It's still not a good idea to mix anything up. Especially when you're working on high performance motors..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2149.jpg

Now we remove the end cam holders on the passenger side of the motor. Also 10mm bolts...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2156.jpg

Intake side is marked with an "I" and corresponding cylinder marks..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2147.jpg

Same with the exhaust side... "E" and once again - a LIGHT TAP with a RUBBER MALLET should pop these free if they won't come off easily...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2148.jpg

Simple simple simple..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2147.jpg

This is what we see after removing the cam rail holders on the passenger side of the motor...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2166.jpg

And this is the driver's side without the cam rail holders...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2165.jpg

Set everything in order in your parts pile to keep things organized...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2164.jpg

Now we can get at the head bolts. We are getting close... This is what we see with all the cam rails/holders off..
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2163.jpg

Remove the camshafts by lifting them carefully straight up from the motor. ALWAYS STORE CAMSHAFTS STANDING ON END TO MINIMIZE WARPING AND STRESS ON THE METAL.. Notice the groove is for the distributor (intake camshaft.)
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2167.jpg

Now we take out the headbolts. Here is the order for loosening. I recommend a half-turn per bolt, then move on to the next one. Do not take the bolt from fully tight to loose in one motion. Loosen the bolts in series, the same way you tighten them. This prevents head warping...
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y.../DSCN2170m.jpg

I recommend a long breaker bar to remove the bolts - THEY ARE VERY TIGHT. I have aftermarket head studs so I don't know the head-bolt size or torque. I do no FOR A FACT that the head bolts should not be loosened UNLESS YOU HAVE THE RIGHT SOCKET. If you feel any play whatsoever in the socket when you try to turn it, don't use it. I have heard nightmares of people stripping headbolts and having to drill them out.
http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/y...C/DSCN2174.jpg

I think the OEM head bolts are 6 point - if so, USE A SIX POINT SOCKET. Use a flashlight to look into the hole and double check this. My aftermarket head studs were 9/16" 12pt nuts, so I had to use a different socket setup as you will. DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECK THIS BEFORE TRYING TO LOOSEN YOUR HEAD BOLTS.

Now our head should be loose. There should be nothing connecting the head to the block. It should be sitting on the dowel pins. It may take more than one person to flex the header/intake manifold out of the way for lifting the head out but if you made it this far I'm sure you can handle it.

Now crack a beer and get ready to lift you head out.

SIDE NOTE - I have an external oil line to my head for a B20v, 99% of ppl will not have this but if you do YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT THIS OIL LINE.