Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Hi all, first off I'm doing this install on a 99 Accord EX with the F23a1 motor. So Ive bought a new clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate. I was originally looking for someone to install it but no one will do it for cheap because they claim that this specific year is very complicated and hard to work with when it comes to changing it's clutch. I've been told that I would need to pull my suspension by someone, others have told me that I will have to undo my alignment, etc etc. All Ive gotten is bad news.

So I've decided that I will do it my self but I'm starting to get discouraged. Can anyone confirm that I will need to pull my suspension, or that I need to undo my alignment or anything like this to get to my clutch. What makes my model more complicated? Does anyone know the steps on installing a new clutch on this specific model? Any advice would be great.

I was thinking this would be as easy as pulling the passenger tire, maybe pulling off the control bars, pulling the axles, undoing the tranny mount, and then finally pulling off the transmission, changing your clutch and putting it all back together.

I am a DIY type of guy, I know I can do this. But I cannot afford any surprises on this one as this is my daily driver :/. I work on call and I've got to make on site quickly whenever I get a call . I think I have all the tools unless I need to remove the suspension, then I am unsure. I figured I need at least a basic socket set, breaker bar, an impact wrench, a torque wrench, and some blue loctite. Am I missing anything?

By the way I've been snooping around to find a proper guide on a clutch installation, and I cant seem to find anything. Except this https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-how-tranny-removal-811691/ (and the pictures seem to be broke so its not so useful). So I am going to take lots of pictures and pull together a very detailed clutch installation guide, any tips from the pros would be great in shaping this guide. Thanks in advanced guys :)

Just a side note if you guys have any pictures u need hosted, I can host them for you at full resolution so people can see every little detail. Just let me know.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

You'll need to undo the radius rods from the control arms, and pull the front part of the front subframe. 2x 17 mm bolts up front, and 3x 14mm bolts on each side near where the control arm mounts. You'll also need to undo the front motor mount, and possibly some clips that hold lines to the subframe. The subframe only weighs about 30 lb, so don't worry about it falling on you.

After pulling the axles, undo the trans mount and lower the engine/trans enough to get the trans to slide off below the frame rail. You'll obviously have to pull off the shift cables, slave cylinder, and reverse light switch/plug.

After that, change the clutch, and put everything back together. Make sure you get it aligned afterwards.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

2 questions, Am I going to need to get a 36mm and remove the axles from the hubs? Or can I move them out of the way?..
Also Ive recently gotten the car aligned and payed quite alot because I needed camber kits, ( it was like 320 bucks total). I am feeling a bit cheap on the whole alignment thing :P . I was thinking I could take a knife and mark around the sides of alignment nuts, to make a note of their exact position. And then when im done just align the nuts to the marks. Would that work or? I'll get it done if I definitely need it, but if i can find a shortcut or 2 to save a little $$ that would be awesome :P.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Yes, you'll need a 36mm to remove the axles. You'll need to undo the lower ball joint and completely pull the axles out. It'll make your job a lot easier with no axles in the way.

As for the alignment, you can be cheap and mark the parts. But after you put it all back together and something is off, the money you saved on the alignment will be spent on new tires after they get chewed up; and you'll end up getting an alignment anyway. Your camber should be very close to where it was set, so only get the toe zero'd. Shouldn't cost you that much.

Do it right the first time. Yes, you can save money now, but you'll end up spending it later.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Axles? so both need to go then?
I've just started, I already got one axle nut off , and the wheels as for that ball joint, i got a ball joint removing fork from the store. I dont know if there is a proper way to use it or anything.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

I stick a big prybar between the knuckle (just to the inside of the ball joint boot) and the lower control arm. Put some pressure on that while hitting the side of the control arm. Comes off every time. If you use the fork, you'll likely tear up the boot.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Before i do it, will i need to remove the control bars to or??

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

I unbolted mine from the control arms, and pulled them out with the subframe. You could also unbolt them from the subframe, but they might be getting in the way, depending on how high you have the car raised.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Just a thought about the alignment.

I don't know if you know the shop that did the alignment very well, but you could always try asking them to look at the alignment again (for a small charge or for free, whatever you can pull off haha) after you are done. Hell, you spent all that money with them for an alignment, and if they did a good job I'm sure you'll be back.

So why not at least see what you can work out. Explain the situation too and maybe that'll help in the pity department haha.

Btw, if you do end up putting together a new guide for this you are the man. I'll definitely be giving it the look over when I go to do my clutch soon (hopefully).

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Let me do a quick (hopefully complete) guide off the top of my head.

Remove front splash shield, disconnect/remove battery, battery tray, intake box/tube
1. remove front wheels, pry out the bend in the axle nuts, pop off center caps, put wheels back on
2. with the car on the ground, have someone hold the brake as you loosen the axle nuts with a breaker bar
3. if you have an impact, zip them off without putting the wheels back on
4. put car on jack stands
5. undo lower ball joint nuts, and pop them loose. Stick a pry bar on the inside of the ball joint in between the knuckle and LCA. As you put force on the pry bar, smack the LCA with a hammer until it pops loose
6. drain trans fluid (can be done at any point before now)
7. unbolt the shock fork from the LCA and remove bolt
8. get under the car, stick a pry bar in between the inner CV joints and trans case / intermediate shaft, and pop them loose. They will not come out yet
9. have someone lift up and out on the hub (separating the lower ball joint), as you tap the axle out of the hub
10. remove axle from hub, then grab inner CV joint and remove from trans/shaft R/L respectively. Don't pull on the axle itself as you will separate the inner CV joint. Push shock fork out of the way and slide the axle out the bottom of the fork. Put ball joint back in LCA
11. unbolt intermediate shaft from block (3 14mm bolts) and remove from trans
12. unbolt starter
13. unbolt lower clutch cover from trans/engine
14. remove 17mm bolt from front motor mount. No, the engine will not fall. Remove the mount bracket from the block
15. unbolt slave cylinder and line from the trans
16. remove the 2 bolts (per side) that hold the radius rod to the control arm
17. remove the 3 bolts (per side) holding the front part of the subframe (at the LCA). It won't fall, the radius rods will hold it up on the LCAs. Put jack stand or jack under the front jack point of the subframe, and remove the two 17mm bolts. They're threaded in about 2 inches. There might be some plastic clips holding some lines to the subframe; pop them loose. Slide subframe forward off the LCAs and out from under the car. It's nice to have another person due to the size of the subframe, but very doable with only one. It only weighs about 30 lb.
18. Start unbolting the trans from the block. You'll have to unbolt the rear mount bracket. Leave 2 bolts on top of the trans, one in the front, and one in the back
19. disconnect shifter cables, reverse light switch, VSS
20. support engine with a jack and unbolt the trans mount. Just removing the long center bolt should suffice.
21. lower the engine until the trans clears the frame rail
22. put another jack under the trans and unbolt the trans from the block
23. slide the trans off the guide pins, making sure it's coming off squarely. You might need to stick a screwdriver in between the trans and engine to separate them. Keep an even gap all the way around, or it won't come off
24. once off the block. lower the trans jack and remove trans from under the car, keeping the engine supported
25. loosen pressure plate bolts evenly. Loosen 1-2 turns, move to the next bolt. This will keep the pressure plate from warping
26. remove the six 12 point 17mm bolts holding the flywheel in. Machine or replace the flywheel
27. replace pilot and throwout bearing. The release fork will pop right off. Grease the pivot point before you put it back on with the new bearing
28. bolt the flywheel back in, making sure to use locktite on the bolts
29. with the clutch alignment tool, align the clutch disk and bolt up the pressure plate. Once again, only do 1-2 turns per bolt until they're all tight
30. remove clutch alignment tool and slide trans back on the block. If it's not square, it won't go on. Be careful not to get the input shaft in the pilot bearing and then let the trans hang
31. put trans bolts back in, jack up the engine/trans and replace the trans mount bolt. Don't forget the rear mount bracket.
32. take a beer or monster break
33. bolt up the intermediate shaft
34. bolt up front subframe and radius rods
35. have someone lift up the hub, slide axle into the shock fork, into the trans / intermediate shaft, into hub. It doesn't take much force to get the inner CV joint to seat
36. put castle nuts back on the ball joints. Don't forget the cotter pins
37. put axle nuts back on, torque to 181 ft lb
38. bolt up slave cylinder, line, front motor mount, lower clutch cover, starter, shift cables, reconnect reverse light switch, bolt up battery box, replace intake box/tube, reconnect battery

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Whoa now :P thanks for the detailed guide. This will help me tomorrow when i start back up. Ive managed to get quite alot done in 5 or 6 hours (might be slow to you but I'm also studying every part I handle so I can learn).
here are some pics of the progress done for the night. I know thier huge, sorry for the size, ill edit the post when i resize them.

no more subframe :)
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2067small.jpg

radius rods are still floating there
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2071small.jpg


axel came out
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2069small.jpg

the splash guard is off now
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2074small.jpg

wow look at that tranny mount, its in perfect condition!
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2077small.jpg


You guys can view all the pics so far, by going to http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/clutch

Sorry for their huge size I didn't bother resizing them just yet. But hey now u can see every little speck of dirt :P

I've got a new clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate for this install. And they've all been cryogenically treated to increase density and strength. I'll post pictures of it tomorrow morning.
Its off to sleep now!----------------

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

A few pics of the new clutch that is about to go in

Heres the whole thing assembled

http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/clutch/clutchkit.jpg

Everything apart.

http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/clutch/newstuff.jpg

The actual clutch

http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/clutch/clutch.jpg

The clutch is a Stage 4, 6 puck with a sprung hub (reduce the chance of breaking things)

The flywheel is a 12lb billet steel flywheel. Its machined from a solid block, so I don't have to worry about the ring gear separating from the flywheel with extreme forces.

And the pressure plate I believe is a 2200 lb plate.

Cryogenics was done to it by S & R performance. http://www.sandrperformance.com/cryo.asp for 30$


There are many new pictures at
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/clutch/
including some that will be used in the guide. You guys are welcome to snoop around it.
Note that most of them have yet to be resized so the resolution is pritty high, Just zoom out and you'll be fine.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Hey everything looks good so far man!

But why the heavy duty clutch? This thing got some goodies you didn't mention?

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

:D Honestly I plan on frankenstiening this thing into a G23 and then im going to boost it :).

So Ive picked up a clutch that will hold it all down.

The final goal is around 450 -600 (depending on what i plan to use for pistons, and how much ive spent on reinforcing the whole thing). I plan on putting every little thing together my self with your guys help :)

The plan is to do a 3 step build. Im going to start with the h23 (or 22 head? i havent fully compared both).

Then Ill boost it on stock internals with a semi cheapy turbo (no more then 7psi im thinking to ensure it stays together while i prep it for real boost).

Then the final goal is to pull the block apart, and put in forged pistons(wiseco?), and eagle rods. I'll have the head ported (maybe some work on the block as well?), with a new valve train + titanium retainers, skunk cams (or if you guys got anything you recommend let me know) and finally put in a garret to replace the cheapy turbo. Then just dial up the pressure ;) .

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Bit of an issue now guys If anyone knows what to do here.

The top bell housing bolt (second to final bolt im pulling) may of gotten partially striped.

I tried to pull it off with a breaker bar, and i didnt realize that the socket spun on the head.
I took a impact gun to it and ran it for less than half a second when i realize the socket spun. there is still some grip left on the bolt but im very afraid I might strip it if i try to pull it again...
What to do?
Im going to spray it down with wd40 and let it soak till i can figure out how i can get it out with what ever grip ive got left.
I think there is alot of weight on that bolt because its only 1 of 2 left and the last one is already partially out anyway.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Never mind guys I managed to baby that sucker outta there.
I'm going to leave that screw out when I'm done with the whole thing and go straight to Honda for a brand new one.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Well... that does explain things haha!

Good luck! Btw, with the power you are talking about you may want to add new sleeves to the budget if you already haven't. Would be good insurance and eliminate possible problems down the road if you do end up going for 600whp.

Will definitely be worth it. Stripped bolts are the WORST!

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

I definitely need to look into reinforcing the block. Any idea how much the stock iron sleeves in it now will handle?

Just wondering how strong they really are.


And at the moment though it just has DC headers + 2in piping thru a test pipe (no cat) into a GReddy EVO2 + intake

Yellow lowering springs (lol no idea what brand) + Tokico HP shocks (hu3730)

And it had some nice 5 star white rims but one cracked so I sold em :/.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Man I was so tired last night i didnt post any updates :P

She finally got lowerd
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2148small.jpg


There she is
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2152small.jpg

I already got the old pressure plate off.
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2154small.jpg

New one is on now
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2168small.jpg

BREAK TIME!
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2170small.jpg

something bothers me here though.. looks like my fly wheel is to big by like 1 mm, im hoping its just my POV I'm going to tgry and line the tranny on it later and see if she will close with that fly wheel.
heres some pics of what im talking about


Looks fine here
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2171small.jpg

But not so promising in this pic
http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/cl..._2174small.jpg

We will just have to see what happends

Ofc there are lots more pictures available for those keeping track of this install @

http://fubarservers.com/hondatech/clutch/

just to add on, the radius rods and shock fork ended up coming out on the tranny side. We have the clearance to drop it with out removing them but couldnt get a good grip on the tranny with it in the way.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

In fairness to them they are pretty strong. They have held in the 500whp range (possibly higher I can't remember for sure). However, you shouldn't expect that to hold together for the long term. If you are truly going for 400whp on up, look into some new sleeves for insurance.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

I definitely plan on pushing 400 or more.
I will keep doing research, I was figuring the stock sleeves would hold less than that but thats not bad (other than the long stroke n large bore, this is the reason I picked the f23).
Depending on what people have success with I will probably run this around 350ish or low 400's if i feel confident enough with what I find.
At least till i get the money together for some sleeves (they are pricey!).
I've already found a shop that can do it, but if anyone knows a shop in the tampa area that is cheap and reliable let me know.

No pictures tonight as i didn't do shi7 but get the tranny back on and then strip the thread in the block for one of the transmission screws :/ .
But the heavy lifting is over, HOORAY!!! :P
Honestly the tranny isn't that heavy but its bulky and a pain to get that sucker lined back up again by your self.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

I'm trying to figure out what sensor this is.
There is a sensor that goes into the block that is just over the top center of where the transmission meets with the engine. What is it?
It's like 2 mm above the transmission going into the block just below the head.
Apparently it was snapped off by the previous owner and then glued back together, if its cheap ill buy one if not i think ill manually wire it up to save time and money.
Its still good just connector on the sensor came off.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

Yeah go and take a look in the Forced Induction forum and check out the single cam setups. There's some information in there somewhere about the highest power levels people have gotten on stock sleeves as well.

Re: Clutch Install on a 99 Accord
 

IT LIVES, IT LIVES . BWAHAHAHAHAHAA!
:P not everything has been tightened down, and its till missing the sub frame, battery mounts and a couple other misc things but she started and shifted all 6 gears and engaged flawlessly no shuddering.
Clutch pedal is noticeably stiffer but not horrible, its also maybe an inch lower now or so which i believe is normal with my pressure plate.
its shifts so nicely now, I cant tell if its the clutch or the Lucas transmission fix i put in there.
But it no longer makes a loud clicking noise when I'm shifting it into reverse and it slides right in, first gear seems to go in perfectly.
Tomorrow ill torque it all down and post a vid of it running the streets.

Anyone got a recommended break in time or method??

I'm gonna blow some $$ in gas tomorrow all city miles, to try and break her in, in one day.
How many miles should I go guys? What do you think??

Heres how I plan on breaking it in, any tips would be nice though.

I'm not going over 4k rpm (and not even going past 50% throttle).
I will refrain from hovering on the clutch pedal.
And I believe swift but smooth engagements will be the best way to go.

More pics will be posted soon just modifying and uploading atm.