oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
i've searched and depending on the build ppl run diff weights...can someone tell me the appropriate
oil weight for my build...which is a DIY kit runnin 6-8psi |
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
if its a stock engine you run stock motor oil weight aka 5w30. this has been covered.
stock bearings clearences = 5w30-10w30 if its built loose then you can run 20w50 IMO Brad Penn racing oil and it can be purchased from T1racingdevelopment |
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
Originally Posted by Turbo-LS
(Post 41360447)
if its a stock engine you run stock motor oil weight aka 5w30. this has been covered.
stock bearings clearences = 5w30-10w30 if its built loose then you can run 20w50 IMO Brad Penn racing oil and it can be purchased from T1racingdevelopment |
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
i use brad penns 1040. stock motor too. :P
|
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
i run Quaker State full syn 10w30
i've tried different brands but from the oils i've used, this holds up the best would like to try AmsOil though |
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
yeah q state and castrol synthetics work good too. Im not a fan at all of mobil 1 or royal purple. redline is nice stuff too
|
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
Valvoline conventional 10w40 here, 650whp SFWD civic hatch.
|
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
Originally Posted by Spoolin18
(Post 41372812)
Valvoline conventional 10w40 here, 650whp SFWD civic hatch.
runnin that. |
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
conventional oil works just fine. it doesn start to break down around 240 degrees but shouldnt be an issue. Ive been running castrol gtx 1030 in my car for 20k miles and its fine, when i pulled my oil pan the inside of the motor was clean and looked like new. bearings stayed mint so its obviously getting the job done properly. I tend to change my oil every 1500-2000 because im running a litle loose PTW and ring gaps and fuel makes its way into the oil quite a bit but a loose motor is better than a tight motor for boost. i can handle oil changes more often then killing motors
As long as your running a known name brand motor oil convention or not then you should be fine. just dont use the store brands . i dont trust'em Im currently freshening up my engine and after the rebuild i plan on going with the brad penn though. heard nothign but good things about it. its just like rotellaT with the zinc addatives and what not but can be had in 5w30 and 10w30 which is proper weight oil for our cars instead of rotella which is 15w40. which isnt to heavy but it is in cold climates |
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
I have been told that depending on the tempurature outside you should change the oil to a
heavier oil in the heat and lighter oil in the cold. Is this true? |
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
Originally Posted by LS AzZkIkr
(Post 41373972)
I have been told that depending on the tempurature outside you should change the oil to a
heavier oil in the heat and lighter oil in the cold. Is this true? but everyone has their own opinions |
Re: oil weight for turbo setup..."searched"
Originally Posted by Turbo-LS
(Post 41372671)
yeah q state and castrol synthetics work good too. Im not a fan at all of mobil 1 or royal purple. redline is nice stuff too
Originally Posted by Spoolin18
(Post 41372812)
Valvoline conventional 10w40 here, 650whp SFWD civic hatch.
Originally Posted by Turbo-LS
(Post 41373970)
conventional oil works just fine. it doesn start to break down around 240 degrees but shouldnt be an issue. Ive been running castrol gtx 1030 in my car for 20k miles and its fine, when i pulled my oil pan the inside of the motor was clean and looked like new. bearings stayed mint so its obviously getting the job done properly. I tend to change my oil every 1500-2000 because im running a litle loose PTW and ring gaps and fuel makes its way into the oil quite a bit but a loose motor is better than a tight motor for boost. i can handle oil changes more often then killing motors
As long as your running a known name brand motor oil convention or not then you should be fine. just dont use the store brands . i dont trust'em Im currently freshening up my engine and after the rebuild i plan on going with the brad penn though. heard nothign but good things about it. its just like rotellaT with the zinc addatives and what not but can be had in 5w30 and 10w30 which is proper weight oil for our cars instead of rotella which is 15w40. which isnt to heavy but it is in cold climates
Originally Posted by LS AzZkIkr
(Post 41373972)
I have been told that depending on the tempurature outside you should change the oil to a
heavier oil in the heat and lighter oil in the cold. Is this true? imo i wouldn't run anything heavier than 10w40. 15w40 might work but i have experienced problems with running too heavy of oil before causing my car to heat up |
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