Finger remote control TIG question.
 

I'm tired of finding crazy ways to push the pedal with stuff like my elbow or hip... I find I'm less and less interested in doing TIG things I can't do sitting at a table. This is limiting my options.

I want to try a finger tip control. Don't have a local dealer, don't know anybody else with one (small town).

I understand it's likely a personal preference but is there a majority opinion on either
North-South, or side to side?

Thanks,
-Vector.

i have the N to S.the finger tip control is excelent for out of position welding. the only thing is that i find is that my hand shakes when turning the torch on or off since you have to move the wheel alot. fine tuning of the current doenst disturb my welding much since i dont have to reposition my finger on the wheel.(just have to move up or down)

Re: Finger remote control TIG question. (vectorsolid)
 

actually at work we use just a reg push button type deal. we used the switchs for a little bit, but it got bad reviews so we went back to push button ones. only downside to these is whatever voltage you have it one it goes straight there so you have to play with the button.

Re: Finger remote control TIG question.
 

at work, we use on/off switches on our TIGs since we do a lot of welding in different uncomfortable positions. sometime we have to be on our knees,our back, and even in a scaffold sometime, so you can't always use your foot switch..in fact.. you can.. but very difficult

I use that for 4 years now, I like that, but you have to adjust your heat a lot when changing the thickness of your material.. something you don't really have to do with a foot switch, if properly adjusted.

I have to say that I still prefer the footswitch for a better control, but sometimes, you just don't have the choice!


EDIT: the switch i'm talking about, is made by Weldcraft


Modified by UncleMath at 4:29 PM 7/31/2008

Re: Finger remote control TIG question. (vectorsolid)
 

I have a north-south control on my Dynasty. What welder are you using?

Re: Finger remote control TIG question. (Jasper_db1)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a north-south control on my Dynasty. What welder are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dynasty 350

Scratch start/lift arc with our maxstars and dynastys for mobile work/position welds. Amperage control if for girls. https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emwink.gif

Re: (dave@passenger)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Scratch start/lift arc with our maxstars and dynastys for mobile work/position welds. Amperage control if for girls. https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emwink.gif</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^^^^^ scratch start rules https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

sup dave!

Re: (shortyz21)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

^^^^^^ scratch start rules https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

sup dave!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are kidding I hope or you really bumped your head

I haven't messed with a dynasty so I am not sure about them but I have a squarewave tig 275 lincoln and it has by far the best feature for out of position tig I have ever used. They call it a 4 step. Push button control step 1 push button and acr starts but just enough so you can position yourself. step 2 release button and act ramps up to your preset amperage. step 3 push button and arc will ramp back down to almost nothing ( CRATER CONTROL ) step 4 release the button and the arc shuts off. great feature when your not using the foot control. Much better then any of my millers for that purpose.

Once you get used to it you can easily preset the current needed to weld a cage for the members that are all the same thickness.

Re: (KFMRC)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KFMRC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You are kidding I hope or you really bumped your head

I haven't messed with a dynasty so I am not sure about them but I have a squarewave tig 275 lincoln and it has by far the best feature for out of position tig I have ever used. They call it a 4 step. Push button control step 1 push button and acr starts but just enough so you can position yourself. step 2 release button and act ramps up to your preset amperage. step 3 push button and arc will ramp back down to almost nothing ( CRATER CONTROL ) step 4 release the button and the arc shuts off. great feature when your not using the foot control. Much better then any of my millers for that purpose.

Once you get used to it you can easily preset the current needed to weld a cage for the members that are all the same thickness.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Scratch start really isn't that bad, you just gotta learn how to use it, I like the lift arc on the dynastys better for sure. The ramp down control on the lincolns is nice, I wish the dynastys did something similar, but the arc on the lincoln machines sucks so bad its not worth using them IMO. Once you get the hang of trailing of without amperage control its not so bad, you can even do it without getting arc scarring all over the material.

Re: (dave@passenger)
 

I've used just about all the hand amp controls and a North South adjustment is by far the best as it is easy to stabalize. East West movement is less stable as the torch tends to torque or rotate.

4 step on my precision tig 275 is also a very nice feature, especialy with the hand controls

Re: (dave@passenger)
 

I have done scratch start doing repairs at the race track and also doing some helicopter frame stuff running a lincoln gas powered machine. You can do it but if you working with really think materials ( most of the choppers tubes where from 028 035 049 )
your better off not getting the tungsten contaminated at all. I scratch start on cars I do simple repairs to that have the MSD and or efi boxes in them to eliminate the possibilty of the boxs getting wacked. Ground right next to where your welding and turn the hi freq off and your good to go. Have never had an issue.