Spark plug is stuck and broken, how do i get it out? Running on 3 cyl!
 

So today I bought some spark plugs to swap the old ones out with, i start from 1,2,3, and 4

The first 3 come out and in perfect, the 4th was very hard to turn, so i use a big socket and unscrew it , thinking that i got it the top piece of the spark plug comes up. the bottom piece turns but doesn't come up. it just spins if i try to loosen or tighten it .... is it stripped?

The engine was cold when i switched em out. and yes the tools are perfect fit.

will i have to take the head out?

Pictures

https://i115.photobucket.com/albums/...l/IMG_0454.jpg

https://i115.photobucket.com/albums/...l/IMG_0456.jpg


https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif ?

If it just spins when you try to loosen or tighten it then yeah, its stripped, your probably gonna have to remove the head, once you get the remains of the plug out your going to have to put an insert in that hole. I'm gonna take a guess at what happened here, you tried to get the plug out and started coming out hard and kept going. If your removing plugs and they start going hard, stop, turn the plug back in slightly, then out, work the plug until it wants to come easily, lather, rinse, repeat. What happens is carbon builds up on the end of the plug and when you try to remove the plug it gets between the spark plug hole and the plug.

Re: (94EG8)
 

yeah, can i remove the head my self? is it very difficult . because i have no money to spend for a mechanic.

How do i remove the head? ( what bolts ) How much will it cost me (gaskets, liquids, etc. )


Thanks

If your mechanically inclined its not too bad. You need to remove the exhaust manifold and unbolt the intake from the back of the block, drain the coolant, unplug some sensors etc. Make sure you clean the head and block mating surfaces thoroughly, don't use any sort of sanding disc or grinding disc. blow out the head bolt holes in the block with an air compressor before you install the head, if there is any oil/coolant/debris in the holes you will get an inaccurate torque and the gasket man not seal. From the pics it appears your running either a D15B7 or a D15B8, if your running either one of these engines torque the headbolts to 49lb-ft, the manual probably has something a little lower, but honda updated the torque specs which is the only reason i even mention it. Get a helms or chilton manual before you start you need to time the engine and you'll want the info in the book. On the subject of timing the engine, if you don't know when the timing belt was last replaced now would probably be the best time for a new one, the same goes for the water pump. The last time i bought a headgasket it was for a D15B7, $100 at honda. i believe after market is around half that. other misc items will probably eat up another $50. Hope that helps.

Re: (zoomiguel)
 

head gasket is like 30 from honda

Re: (sit22 II)
 

Alright, ill buy that repair book. but tommorow i will try to take the spark plug out with some long needle nose pliers, ill let you guys know what happened