Oil in spark plug holes
 

Hi Honda dudes,

I went to change the plugs today on my folks' '92 Accord LX, and I popped the plug wire boot out, and the hole is about half full with oil. I tried #1 cylinder and #4, and they're both filled. I haven't checked #s 3 and 2.

I have been told that this indicates that the o-rings or the threads on the screw-in plug 'tube' though the cam cover are bad. My Dad tells me that a mechanic told him about this problem about 50k miles ago - the last time the plugs were changed.

I'm planning to get a cam cover gasket and o-ring set tomorrow. I'll put some Permatex thread sealer on the cam cover tubes before I put them in.

I assume that it would be best to sop up the oil in the tubes before (finally!) removing the plugs. All that oil (old, too - maybe 4 years old!) just pouring into the cylinder makes me queasy.

Any tips or tricks you guys might recommend? How much torque do I put on the cam cover bolts after I put it back on?

The plug wires are old, and have been soaking in oil for 4 years. Should I replace them?

Thanks,

Ari (who is a Volvo-dude)

Re: Oil in spark plug holes (SpazMan)
 

torque the valve cover nuts to 10ftlbs.

If the plug wire boots are swollen badly I'd replace them.
No need to smear silicone sealer around the spark plug tubes if you are replacing the gaskets, just a little dab in the corners of the cam humps.

https://img185.imageshack.us/img185/...ketsealho5.jpg

Re: Oil in spark plug holes (hondadude)
 

I have replaced my Valve cover gasket 2 times, and Honda has repalced it 2 times in hope of fixing this very problem. I put a little silicone around my spark plug seals when installing the new gasket,and it is all fixed now.

silicone? can you get em at home depot?

Re: (dleccord)
 

Silicone or any RTV liquid gasket maker will work. Just clean the area and put a dab in the pointer out corners when installing gasket...

sohc

Re: Oil in spark plug holes (SpazMan)
 

This may or may not solve your problem. There is a second set of O-rings under the cam towers. If you look at the spark plug tubes it will be obvious. There is a seal between the top of the tubes and the valve cover, and a seal where the cam towers mate up to the head. This is where the second set is and can only be replaced by pulling the towers. You are doing right by trying the easy stuff first, just do not be surprised if you have to go a little deeper to actually fix this.

Re: (dleccord)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dleccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">silicone? can you get em at home depot?</TD></TR></TABLE>

silicone? no, you need something thats resistant to both heat and oil.

Either go to Honda and get Hondabond or go to a parts store and get some gray Permatex as I believe that is an equivalent to the Hondabond. Either is going to cost about the same if I recall.

Re: Oil in spark plug holes (hondadude)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">torque the valve cover nuts to 10ftlbs.

If the plug wire boots are swollen badly I'd replace them.
No need to smear silicone sealer around the spark plug tubes if you are replacing the gaskets, just a little dab in the corners of the cam humps.

https://img185.imageshack.us/img185/...ketsealho5.jpg</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1

also, the o rings that go under the cam cover at the spark plug hole sometimes takes a couple of trys to get them to seal right. back on the old old car it took a 2nd try even though we meticulously installed them the first time. install, run for a while, then check again.

and again, ditch the old wires.

Re: Oil in spark plug holes (conker)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by conker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This may or may not solve your problem. There is a second set of O-rings under the cam towers. If you look at the spark plug tubes it will be obvious. There is a seal between the top of the tubes and the valve cover, and a seal where the cam towers mate up to the head. This is where the second set is and can only be replaced by pulling the towers. You are doing right by trying the easy stuff first, just do not be surprised if you have to go a little deeper to actually fix this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is your problem,guranteed. They are called lower tube seals.

how much is honda bond?


also, do you need to pull off the head in order to get to the second set of o-rings?

Re: (dleccord)
 

what you need to replace is the "cam tower o-rings". they are sandwiched in-between the spark plug holes and the rocker arm assembly. remove the valve cover and then you need to remove the entire rocker arm assembly as a whole across the head. its a fairly simple job to do if you have the mechanical know-how. you DO NOT need to remove the head to replace these. should take about an hour to do the job start to finish

what other tools do i need besides sockets and ratchets? do you need anything special like a spring compressor or slide-hammer?

Re: (dleccord)
 

don't recall, about the same amount as any gasket maker from parts stores. Just call the local dealership and ask https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

Special tools? Not that I can think of. Just go into the FAQ and find the link to the write-up on this. Once you find the link and open it up, go to the second page of the thread for pictures of the process.

In all honesty, with all the questions you've been asking lately I think it would be in your best interest to invest in a Helm manual or at the very least a Haynes or Chiltons manual. I will always advise the Helm manual because it is far better than the haynes or chiltons, it will pay for itself over and over.

Re: (TouringAccord)
 

I have a related question, I just changed my plugs over the weekend and there were a couple drops of oil on one or two of them - there was no oil on them the last time I changed them though that was three years ago.*

Should I go for a seal replacement at this time, or just wait until it gets worse?

'99 Accord LX, I4, 93,000 miles.

And a second question - how much torque was I supposed to use on the spark plugs? About 15 to 17 foot-pounds felt right so that's what I went with, but I am curious to see what I was supposed to use.

* For the '98 and '99 I4's, spark plugs are supposed to be changed every 30,000 miles, it wasn't until '00 that the 105,000 mile spark plug change came into being.

And SpazMan, which Volvo(s) do you own? Until last fall I had a '93 945T, hated to sell it but I had too many vehicles.

Re: (Heat)
 

It's probably best to do it before it gets bad. If enough oil get in there it can make the engine run like crap.

IIRC, the manual calls for 13 lbs/ft. Did you use any anti-seize on the threads?

Re: (TouringAccord)
 

ussualy if theres oil in the spark plug holes its the lil o ring gaskets on the valve cover.. im new to h and f but i no thats how it is on b series.. id imagine its the same for h or f..

I replaced my upper tube seals and the valve cover about 4 months ago. Now I have tiny leak from the valve cover gasket at the back, left side of the cover when looking from the front of the car. Some one suggested that I take it apart again and reseat the seal. I also took the spark plugs out and they were dry, so I guess I don't need to replace the lower tube seals.
However, I put a dab of red sealant in the 4 corners of the cam hump and I now have leaks at 2 locations. They are small leaks. Both leaks are on the left front and back of the valve cover when looking from the front of the car. I did wet the seal with new oil before putting it back on. I wonder if this is from that oil that I put on?
Maybe it leaks b/c I bought the cheap gasket from Ebay? Should I buy a Honda dealer kit to do the job again?
Also some Honda accords do not have the lower seals, is that true? I have the 1990 LX 4 doors, AT.
I have put sealant on the outside where the leaks are for the time being while awaiting for advice on what to do next.
What should I do guys?

Thanks.

Buy an OEM gasket to ensure good fitment - I wager that was your problem all along.