PCV Valve Replacement
 

I have been consuming oil in my 99 Accord 2.3L I4 sedan since I got it this spring.

Recently it was suggested that I replace my PCV valve(s).

Any info on how to do this/where to get the parts?

Thanks for any help!

Re: PCV Valve Replacement (xluben)
 

http://www.filtsai.com/accord/...r.jpg

go there, one above the vtec sign (farthest right arrow)

you can buy it from any Honda Dealer or Parts store.

so there is only one?

and i just pop it off and pop on the new one?

Re: (xluben)
 

yes! indeed; take 5 second. done deal.

awesome!

but do you think it'll help with my oil consumption? right now it's about a quart every tank of gas https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsad.gif

this is what i was told on another forum:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for the oil leak, if it's not externally leaking then that's what we call oil consumption. There aren't too many places oil can go except through the engine or on the ground (obviously), and there are some FAR CHEAPER alternatives than trying to get silly and swap a head gasket. Anytime I get an oil loss/consumption concern, I will install a bottle of dye (a few ounces) in the oil (simply poor it in rather), and run the vehicle for a few min. In the 60's black lights became very popular, and just like back then, black lights can still turn dye neat colors. If you get in a dark enough area and take a black light to your car's engine, and assuming you have an external leak, you'll locate it pretty quickly with a florecent looking purple or green liquid (dyed engine oil, any viscosity).

Positive Crankcase Ventalation valves (PCV Valves) are probably never ever changed out enough on vehicles; I recomend them every 15k miles. This is a VERY common method of entry for oil into the engine!! If you've ever pulled an air cleaner/filter from the throttle body and seen all the black junk on the throttle plate, then you can now be assured that you're looking at oil. Oil does not combust in the engine, and causes problems. When those PCV Valves stick open, the rushing air past their outlet (designed only to exhale bad fumes from the crank case into the engine, not oil), then the extra rushing air past this valve will suck oil or anything else through it and into the engine itself. If it sticks closed, the inlet for the frest air (pre throttle body) into the valve cover/crank case provides the suction to pull the oil out and inject it into the engine. My recomendation is to replace the sub $5 PCV Valve and to take a can of B12 chemtool and hose down the throttle body and to open it and hose it down inside as well. Most likely the oil is there regardless of this being the concern or not with the oil consumption. $20 or less and about 10 to 15 min. in labor can save a lot of heart aches and pains at a repair facility.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what are your thoughts on this?

do i need to do more than just change the valve?

how is changing the valve going to help me?

Re: (xluben)
 

no it will not help you with oil consumption; If you are loosing oil badly, thats men you have an oil leak some where, or you have bad rings on your pistons.

collect every peny for rebuild or sell your car - get a new one

well it's not leaking noticeably externally :confused:

i figured i could give it a try since it's only $5

and it was recommended by an ASE cert. tech.

just to make sure, this is it (in my engine):
http://i107.photobucket.com/al...36800

yeah that is it in your picture. goto autozone or a local auto place. i paid $3 - $4 for mine at autozone. honda wanted close to $15 for the same thing ...

Re: (Slomies)
 

well, i've replaced the pcv valve, air filter, and installed a catch can.

i didn't really go into full detail of my problems, but this is the quick version:

air filter hadn't been changed since i bought it and i don't know how long before that.
i'd see a lot of black smoke if i got my rpm's high.
replaced the air filter and the black smoke is gone!

oil consumption problem and ecu light would go on if i opened up the throttle at low rpm's (ie. trying to accelerate in 5th gear).
ecu code was reading as a cylinder misfire.
put in new new pcv valve and now i'm unable to make the ecu light go on (even if i try)!

i'm still not sure what to do about the oil consumption problem.
it has been recommended that i do a marvel msytery oil piston soak. any thoughts?
are there any tutorials for removing spark plugs? i really have no idea

i also installed a catch can for the hell of it. it's the same as outlined in the sticky:

this is how it originally looked with two straight fittings:

https://img168.imageshack.us/img168/...n002dt4.th.jpg https://img168.imageshack.us/img168/...n003gx7.th.jpg

here's after i realized that wouldn't fit, and put a 90 degree elbow on the intake:

https://img143.imageshack.us/img143/...n007xs0.th.jpg https://img143.imageshack.us/img143/...n006rn5.th.jpg

here it is spliced into the hosing with pcv valve inline (sorry for the blurry pic):

https://img143.imageshack.us/img143/...n009mo7.th.jpg

and here it is installed:

https://img165.imageshack.us/img165/...n010fd4.th.jpg https://img143.imageshack.us/img143/...n011ww0.th.jpg

car starts and runs normally. took a 5 min drive and didn't see any oil or blackening of the filter. hopefully it doesn't fill up too often https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emsmile.gif

any other maintenance suggestions are welcome!

thanks for all the help! https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emsmileo.gif

Re: (Slomies)
 

I just replaced my pcv vavle it was, cdn tire 6$, dealer 27$ I got mine from the dealer https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emsmilep.gif . anyway if you cant see it leaking get a compression/leakdown test

Re: (Stealthman80)
 

i think i may have to do that. do you recommend going to a dealer for that?

btw, my pcv valve was $1.29 at o'reillys and i saw one at walmart for $2 something https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emsmile.gif

just buy a tool to do a compression test from autozone. that's what I did. it's like $20 for one ... that way you'll always have one in case you need it down the road. all you do is remove a spark plug, screw the compression tester in, turn the key and have the engine turn over a few times, check compression, clear tester, repeat ...

I went the already premade route with my catch can ... i've heard good things about the one you made though. here's what mines looks like mounted (the red thing toward the top left side of the engine bay) ... sorry about the thread hyjack here hehe

Attachment 497853

well, i went for a slightly longer drive with the catch can installed (probably about 20 min or so) and now the filter is very dark and there is enough oil in it to cover the bottom!

i think i should have gone for the bigger filter (but i don't know where it'd fit).

if my catch can does start filling up very quickly do you think i have some sort of other problem causing it?

also, does anyone have a good tutorial (w/pics) or how to change spark plugs? i really don't know where to start.

Re: (xluben)
 

Go to like Autozone and buy this socket wrench looking thing that changes spark plugs that sit low like yours. I have one, it was like 5 bucks. Anyway, pull out your plug (do one at a time because you don't want to mix up the plug wires), use the tool to remove the old plug, put some anti-seize on the new plug and use the tool to insert and tighten. Voila!