Easiest way to adjust camber and toe
 

Ok I have access to an alignment ,achince at school. I have an EM2. what is the easiest way to adjust the camber? Right now I am just loosening the two adjustment bolts on the strut and pulling out on the wheel from the bottom while someone tightens down the bolts again. it works and adjusts my camber but there has to be an easier way and and better way to have more precise control over how much adjustment happens. any help? thanks pics would be a huge help. Also whats the easierst way to adjust the toe? https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (Hyaboosta)
 

What's an EM2, and does it actually have struts? I don't know of many cars that can adjust camber from the factory.

Some stock class guys that I race with loosen all the bolts, wiggle the tire to add as much camber as possible, and tighten back up since they can't use a camber kit. No real reason to bother on a Daily driver though.

To adjust toe, you thread the tie rod in and out in the front; and move the RTA after loosening the nut on the compensator arm in the rear.

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (AutoXer)
 

EM2 is a 2001-2005 civic coupe. I have it lowered on Tein springs and Tokico's It has actual struts and I have a camber kit for front and rear.

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (Hyaboosta)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyaboosta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EM2 is a 2001-2005 civic coupe. I have it lowered on Tein springs and Tokico's It has actual struts and I have a camber kit for front and rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So since it is a strut, I'm assuming the camber kit is actually a camber plate that mounts at the top of the shock tower? If so, the only way to adjust it is to loosen up the bolts and slide the top of the strut around.

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (AutoXer)
 

nope no camber plate. the camber ajustment is just a bolt that goes on the strut

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (Hyaboosta)
 

Well, if it's a camber bolt, there shouldn't be any pushing or pulling of anything. Just rotate the bolt to adjust the camber (towards bottom of page):

http://www.cruzinonchrome.com/....html

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (AutoXer)
 

is there a need to loosen the bolt below the camber bolt?

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (AutoXer)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
To adjust toe, you thread the tie rod in and out in the front; and move the RTA after loosening the nut on the compensator arm in the rear.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh BTW what does RTA stand for?

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (Hyaboosta)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyaboosta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a need to loosen the bolt below the camber bolt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably, so that everything can move around.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyaboosta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh BTW what does RTA stand for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rear trailing arm.

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (AutoXer)
 

got it. Im going to give it another shot tonight. thanks for the help

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (Hyaboosta)
 

what are you trying to do?

If you are trying to set your camber back to zero, you shouldn't have to. Strut cars camber curve (well there isn't one) are not effect by lowering.

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (slammed_93_hatch)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are you trying to do?

If you are trying to set your camber back to zero, you shouldn't have to. Strut cars camber curve (well there isn't one) are not effect by lowering.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm certainly no expert, but my gut tells me that isn't true.

A strut car still has a LCA. If it was horizontal stock, then lowering will make the LCA shorter in the horizontal direction, which would give positive camber. If it was angled down from chassis to wheel, then lowering will increase the horizontal length, giving some negative camber.

Am I way off base here, or am I actually making sense?

But I was also under the impression that lowering a strut based Honda was bad from a roll center and bumpsteer perspective, so what do I really know...

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (TunerN00b)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Am I way off base here, or am I actually making sense?

But I was also under the impression that lowering a strut based Honda was bad from a roll center and bumpsteer perspective, so what do I really know...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think what he was saying was that the camber curve (dynamic camber, or camber change while cornering) wouldn't change, as there is a single pivot point; even though the static camber will be more negative when lowered.

The thing is, I think that if you have more neg static camber, you may get more of a camber increase during compression than at stock height. Don't quote me on that though; I'm going to set up a simulation to test that out. Since I've gotten serious about racing and keeping track of these things, I've been doing it with dual wishbone setups which is a whole different ballgame.

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (AutoXer)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
will increase the horizontal length, giving some negative camber.

Am I way off base here, or am I actually making sense?

But I was also under the impression that lowering a strut based Honda was bad from a roll center and bumpsteer perspective, so what do I really know...</TD></TR></TABLE>

like autoX i have ZERO time actually playing with a strut car, (well i did crew one race for a BMW and that is were my little knowledge comes from).

Lowering, is doing the same thing as compressing your suspension while in a turn. Now as far as i know, (from things i read, and witnessed), Strut cars like BMW's and EP3's and the RSX get NO camber from lowering or from compression of the suspension (like al the honda from 90-00 do with the double wishbone).

The wheel doesn't move in a arc, it moves (stright up and down). which results in zero camber gain.


Ever looked at a World challenge BMW? or a Grand AM rolex GT BMW, or the Real time racing RSX's??

most of these cars have so much camber at static ride height (becuase they don't gain any in a corner) that the outside inch or so of the tire is not on the ground.


So im still sticking to my guns here and saying that lowering a strut car gets you no camber.


now on to your bumb steer comment. this is true on the EP3 and the RSX, 05 and old. But it is due to the fact of were they connect the steering arms, not that all strut cars have bad bumb steer. the 06 or 05, can rember when they made the change, steering locatioin is different and supposedly much better.

Hopefully some one that knows something about strut cars will come in here

Re: Easiest way to adjust camber and toe (slammed_93_hatch)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The wheel doesn't move in a arc, it moves (stright up and down). which results in zero camber gain.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah, I completely missinterpreted your first post. This isn't true actually:

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

The problem with the McP struts is that the camber curve is not very well controlled, and can even go positive at certain points. I'm assuming that's why the challenge cars run so much camber.