6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

I purchased a hatch shell (92-95). there is some rust obviously painted over and I have a few questions about getting them repaired

normally I would like to go OEM when it comes to panels (ie aftermarket fenders I have used do not line up as well) but OEM replacement hatch 1/4 panels are $400 a piece.

-a- assuming rust is not wide spread on the 1/4 is there any advantage to going with a full panel replacement? with the OEM rear 1/4s it looks like the majority of the welding would be in an area thats out of site - correct or no? if correct - this would reduce the chances of visible body work after the car has been painted.

contemplating panels 4 & 8


-b- is the amount of labor to get a full panel is MUCH greater than that to weld a patch panel? if so, can anyone suggest where I get a patch panel. I am not looking for "ebay" as an answer but the name of a specific seller on ebay would work (personal experiences please!!! employees of aftermarket fender companies answers will be taken with a grain of salt

-c- what are your estimates/guesstimates as to the cost to fit & weld & blend (for lack of better term) both rear 1/4's full vs patch

-d- any tricks on where else to look for rust - I know about removing side skirts

-e- tricks to preventing future rust? POR-15, under coating, drilling holes for better water drainage

-f- can we have a sticky thread of recommend body & paint shops by state. I am looking for one in upstate NY

SneezinCD5

Post some pics and we can help ya, with no pics I don't know how bad the damage is.

sc4dr

That's a lot of questions dude! Ideally a full panel replacement would be the ticket, because you would have no welds across the face of the quarter. With the old quarter cut off, you can address the metal underneath with quality corossion protection.

Next best would be to cut out atleast an inch past any rust and use sheetmetal to reshape the panel, weld, and coat with a quality rust inhibitor(on the inside).

If anyone in Baltimore needs bodywork done, stop by Mid Atlantic Collision Center, and get a free estimate

6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SneezinCD5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Post some pics and we can help ya, with no pics I don't know how bad the damage is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

will do - I will be picking up the car in just over a week (already paid for just a 'lil ways away )

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sc4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's a lot of questions dude! Ideally a full panel replacement would be the ticket </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry about all the questions - i know its alot but its helpful to have alot of info all in one place.

My FIRST STEP - I will remove both bumpers, tail lights, side skirts, fenders, moldings, complete interior & take pics of everything. once car is at a body shop I will sand down 1/4's & take more pics - before cutting & deciding which route to go (full vs patch)

thanks for your help if it matters painting OE BSM

sc4dr

Are you a painter, and do you have a shop that you can work in?

6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sc4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you a painter, and do you have a shop that you can work in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol painter yes... auto paint no, no experience with spray guns either. so answer you are looking for is NO. I am not about to give a cheap DYI approach on this car. I am thinking about trying myself with rust repair on my beater ('93 sedan) but I want a high quality job done on the hatch.

there is a shop local the guy CAN do good work. the key word being "CAN" I would be able to help (as much as possible) but i am leaning towards finding a better shop (which is NOT going too easy)

sc4dr

good luck man

IP RACING

well man honestly if you want a (goo)d quality job I would recommend getting a full 1/4 panel instead of a patch. with a patch theres a always more chance of warping and more chance of rust returning on the under side. I personally would pay the extra$ to get a full 1/4

cone junkie

if you are going to try it out on your sedan it might be worth checking this site out:

http://www.rustrepair.com

they have parts for the sedan and hatch also.

i personally have not purchased from them but others on here have recommended them. either way a 1/4 panel arch is ~$35

edit: here is their online catalog: http://www.rustrepair.com/repa...&p=sm

msinsky14

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cone junkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are going to try it out on your sedan it might be worth checking this site out:

http://www.rustrepair.com

they have parts for the sedan and hatch also.

i personally have not purchased from them but others on here have recommended them. either way a 1/4 panel arch is ~$35

edit: here is their online catalog: http://www.rustrepair.com/repa...&p=sm</TD></TR></TABLE>

they are 45 per side. they also sell rocker panels too
i ordered all mine for a shop to weld, 250 shipped for all 4 pieces

vestalfootball72

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2047790

MEAN88Si4WS

Dude Ive seen people rivet ordinary cheap sheetmetal over a big dent then bondo the rivets and blend everything smooth so its undetectable. You need not spend 400 on this. It can be done for almost nothing if you are creative/determined.

Get some fiberglass filler and go to town I say.

6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MEAN88Si4WS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude Ive seen people rivet ordinary cheap sheetmetal over a big dent then bondo the rivets and blend everything smooth so its undetectable. You need not spend 400 on this. It can be done for almost nothing if you are creative/determined.

Get some fiberglass filler and go to town I say.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry but I would like to see than same panel "look great" after 2-3+ years... sure that would be great if i planned on selling the car

riveting panels bondo & fiberglass

sc4dr

I wouldn't be able to sleep at night

gsrob

I'm in the same boat as you, got hit by a semi though on the passenger side quarter panel and door. After thinking about fixing what was there and being worried down that road that it wasn't done correctly I bought a used ITR door and rear quarter panel. I would much rather have a permanent fix if I want to have a nice paint job as well... Find a wrecking yard or a parts importer; I got the door and quarter panel for $200.00.

3a_eg_hatch

some dude was selling these qp on craigslist. they look good just dont know if it comes with that hole and clip for the bumper screw. if anyones done it already please let us know how it came out

reactone

Look hard enough, you can find patch panels ~$40 a piece. take your time, use .023" wire in a mig. Space your spot welds. You're good to go.

vestalfootball72

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3a_eg_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some dude was selling these qp on craigslist. they look good just dont know if it comes with that hole and clip for the bumper screw. if anyones done it already please let us know how it came out</TD></TR></TABLE>

No they do not come with the hole for the clip. I see this as a good thing tho- just drill a hole roughly 8mm, go to hardware store get 2 washers a m6x1.00 nut and m6x1.00x say 25mm bolt. Use that to hold it in. I did that front and back, and let me tell you it fits a hudred times better and allows for easier removal. While your at it just order from mcmastercar a **** load of m6x1.00 bolts for working on your honda

3a_eg_hatch

thats what i was kinda figuring. cool, so was the fitment of the patch panel was pretty good?

vestalfootball72

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3a_eg_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what i was kinda figuring. cool, so was the fitment of the patch panel was pretty good?</TD></TR></TABLE>
fitment was top notch for a replacement panel. the install is truly what matters tho

FunnyVictor86

so im trying to remove the rear driver side 1/4 panel because i have a buyer for it ... only problem is i dont know how to do it ... can anyone enlighten me or have any tips? oh and it is a 1999 accord lx sedan ... thanks

joshsayswhatt

hey i'm in the same boat too. i need a new driver side door and quarter panel, how do you take the quarter panel off, its a 94 hatchback.

hayabusa160

speaking from experience who had the rear panels replaced.
i got the non oem replacment which is not the whole thing but the wheel arch section. from rustrepair. they do not have the bumper holes you will have to drill your own after you intall them.

i had the area cut out and replaced looked great for a year.

and the deaded bubble started to come back from the area replaced.

the trunk was still leaking water after the repair. i replaced the tail light gaskets and still leaked slightly. it turns out the rubber seals on the hatch glass that the struts mount to were leaking water in to the rear hatch and made its way in to the rear 1/4 panels.


so its important you fix the water leak that was causing the rust before weld the panels in so you dont have to do it again.

just my 2 cents

Dann6968

I have never done it but from what I know, it is a big process. It will not just bolt off.

Are you trying to sell the whole piece or does this guy just want you to cut out a specific part? I assume you are parting out a car, correct?

redsolturbo

removing the outer skin is "roughly" a days work per side if you want it off in one piece.

get all interior side moldings off the car so you can see all the spot welds.
follow the panel edges around and lift/pick out ALL the seam sealer, its also seamed under the quarter glass, so remove the glass and all the bonding

get a 8mm spot weld drill bit (budget of 2-4 of them) and drill down through the outer skin on each one (unless your parting then just drill right through)

in my crx there were around 100 spot welds holding the panel on! also you need somthing to cut the lower sill and upper section as they are one peice units.

i spent around 5 days doing this on 2 full rear quarter cuts i took from a SiR, then doing the same on the car to get the nice ones i cut off on.

its a pita and you WILL wish that you paid for brand new oem full quarters.

if your parting a car then cut the floor pan and sell the quarters as full units, dont waste you time drilling out spot welds!