EL-Driver

I have a acquired a project car here that has a DIY paint job to it, the overall color looks to be a flat baby blue and has orange peel everywhere...

luckly the inside door jams and under the hood are still the original silver of the car

the object is to get it the local paint shop but try to save some cost, so what I have done so far is:

Remove headlights, taillights, hood and trunk lid, interior door panels, front and rear bumpers

now the other idea i had was going to strip the car of this DIY paint job...

but need guidence on how to do this?

Is the best way to use chemicals? if so, what chemical do you suggest?

or

using tools? if tools, then would i be using a certain type of wire wheel?


I open to suggestions on how to remove the paint or any more steps to saving money..

of course the paint/body shop i will bring it too, will be doing the whole painting process (meaning prep, primer & paint)

thank you for your help

RoadRage212

I'm not a pro in this subject matter but since no one has replied to your post I'll give you what tips I can.

Removing the old paint job can be a real pain in the @$$ but this will save you the greatest amount of time and cost through a body shop if done properly. What you need to know before you start sanding is how deep you plan on sanding the 'DIY' paint that's on it now. If you go all the way down to the metal, you'll have to cover it with a primer/sealer or you'll get surface rust practially overnight.

If you want to take it down but not too far, I'd start with 220. I think 180 would be a bit too aggressive if you aren't using a primer. I'd also use a d.a. sander to get an even sanding surface. You should be seeing old primer and original paint pop up pretty quickly without using too much pressure. Work your way up to 320, then 400. I wouldn't go past 400 if there is bodywork to be done. Just remember that when you are sanding, you'll see bare metal FAST on edges and seams so be careful around those.

Honestly, this is a lot of work for you to take on if the car is being dropped off at a bodyshop anyway. If they are doing bodywork and primering and such, then find out if they even want you doing this. You could be giving them a trashed canvas to work with if you know what I mean. They may want it as it is so they can do what they do best, and I know that it may cost you more, but it could allow them to do a better job. I hope this helps and good luck with your project. I want to see some pics as you make progress.

DDEVIANT1

I would block it down with 180 or 220 as well, I wouldn't go any higher than 320 though as most bodyshops will prime it and then re block it out with 400 and then 600 maybe even 800 if they really care about the quality...so there is no point doing work that they are going to redo.

EL-Driver

Thank you everyone for there suggestions...

Looks like after some reading....I wont be talkin on the huge task of prep

but the disassembly, was bit helpful with lowering the cost of getting the exterior painted...

Yet I after some closer inspection....

I had noticed that the inner door jams, had caught some over spray that has obviously dried up and wont come off...some places are heavier the others....

so now a new question...

how can I paint these littler over spray in which are located in the inner door jams?

would you use the process (info gathered from other threads and this thread)

Sand with 320 Grit Sand Paper
Primer
Re sand again till smooth w/ 600 Grit...
Spray can w/ Silver color

Should I go with a single stage paint or buy clear separate?

is this correct?

thank you for your help

DDEVIANT1

I wouldn't spray bomb it at all... but if you do make sure to clear it, and with a metallic base it will take 3 or so coats of clear to be smooth and thick enough to polish..... bjt keep in mind spray bombs will not last.