ButterBall

I'm looking for a few suggestions regarding how to deal with the beginning of typical Honda style rust (around the rear fender well).

The car is a 1999 Civic DX.

<U>Passenger side from inside of hatch view:</U>




<U>Passenger side bumper clip tab (inside of fenderwell looking out view):</U>


<U>Driver side bumper clip tab (inside of fenderwell looking out view):</U>


<U>Hatch Floor Area:</U>


<U>The Cancer Patient:</U>


I removed the carpet and rear bumper cover earlier this winter and applied por 15 after wire wheeling. I'm wondering if the por15 would be okay in the rear fender well areas? I'm thinking of applying it to the perimeter of the rear wheel well from inside of the hatch, to the hatch floor, and directly to the tabs where the bumper cover screws to - trying to seal off the layers of metal that trap water. Is this okay, or is there a better way to deal with the rust situation. All comments welcome.

d357r0y

Move out of the great white north.

Skunk.Werks

iTrader: (2)

literally pour, the por 15 in those areas then seal the joint with some body sealer and you will have long lasting quaters.

Like Butter

Damn those salt trucks

ButterBall

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk.Werks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">literally pour, the por 15 in those areas then seal the joint with some body sealer and you will have long lasting quaters.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's actually a good idea. Would the por15 end up dripping out of the seams that run along the perimeter of the rear wheel well?

That idea leads me to another question - is it alright to pressure wash the inside of the rear quarters? I just finished removing all of the rear plastics, and completed round one of vigorous cleaning. I'm planning on round two of cleaning tomorrow night, and was wondering if it would be alright to use a pressure washer.

How it currently sits:

Mangotreemechanic

Pour enough to cover the metal surfaces, but remember that the excess will leak out the bottom without reacting/coating the surface. If it doesn't work its way out the bottom, that means that water gets trapped there too.

You want to clean up the area, so pressure wash is okay but the bouncing spray will go everywhere. Okay if you removed everything as shown in your pic. The water in the pressure wash won't add any rust preventive, so you will have to dry it in a short time, with compressed air or such. If you already cleaned it good, skip the pressure wash and go to the POR or other rust converter, then an epoxy primer (not filler primer), or maybe a rust blocking paint. Filler primer absorbs water and allows the moisture to rust the metal.

That should seal the inside metal of the panels. It helps a lot.

dpkelly

That's the first I've heard of POR15. I think I'll keep my eyes open for it. http://www.por15.com.

d357r0y

It's good stuff but it doesn't like UV and if you don't apply it right it doesn't take well. Eastwood makes a product that is very similar and doesn't degenerate from UV exposure.

2wheelhunter

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpkelly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's the first I've heard of POR15. I think I'll keep my eyes open for it. http://www.por15.com. </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

hmmm i gotta get my hands on some of this... more info on it?

Exploder39

Washing your car once or twice a week during winter, while pricey, will help keep the damn salt from rusting your car. :D

Padawan

Here's a very nice review of rust treatment products, as well as some information about proper surface prep and application: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...31753

ButterBall

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Exploder39 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Washing your car once or twice a week during winter, while pricey, will help keep the damn salt from rusting your car. :D</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought that as well. I had an EF si with rusted rear quarters when this one was new (it's a hand-me-down for me). So, I made sure it was properly/frequently washed since new - so as to avoid the rust problem. But it still showed up.

I think the new policy for dealing with civics in this climate, from this point forward, is to strip the interior and inspect for rust, and deal with it, annually. They rust from the inside out.

I ordered some more Por15 since I'm now planning on soaking the rear inner quarters. It should arrive tomorrow. I'll post up pics of progress and the final product once completed.

dpkelly

I had my '92 civic under-coated and rust proofed with the Vital system when brand new. I then turned to Krown Rust which helped elsewhere but isn't helping the rear quarters from rusting out. They totally forgot to rust proof the rain gutter system under the windshield wiper cowl. I fixed that myself with pieces of metal and bondo. I ended up removing the entire dashboard to fix it. Now at 430,000km, it doesn't look bad on the outside but darn, the rust is accelerating and I might dump it soon.

BTW, where can I buy that POR15 in Toronto?

ButterBall

I ordered from here:

http://www.canada-por15.com/co...5.htm.

It's about $9.00 CDN shipping.

I hadn't even considered the rain gutter area underneath the cowl. I suppose that's next on my list. Thanks for the heads-up.

dpkelly

Here's how I fixed that problem. Good luck.

http://www.honda-acura.net/for...=rust

ButterBall

I finished coating the interior with the por15.

I ended up doing the painting with a foam/sponge brush. It worked well. I just squeezed it between the exterior sheet metal panel and the fender well sheet metal panel, and let the paint drip down into the seam.

You can see where it ends up dripping through the chassis, in front of the rear wheel, out onto the floor. There was also a nice puddle of paint a few inches behind the rear wheel, but I had a paper towel on the plastic to catch it.



This was the rust spot that was starting to form in the seam behind the passenger rear wheel - the same rust spot pictured in an earlier post:



looking into the open hatch (bad picture):



Looking out of the hatch:



A couple more pictures of the finished inner fender wells:





I'm planning to go over it again tomorrow with a mirror looking for missed spots. Any more suggestions for rust prevention are welcome.

Skunk.Werks

iTrader: (2)

now slop body sealer in those crevasses so no moisture collects

uniseriate

I removed the passenger tail light on my 99 hatch recently and found a rust spot similar to the first picture in this thread.



If you have a hatchback in a state that uses road salt, take a moment to check behind your tail lights for rust.

ButterBall

Two years later, there is a very small (1/4 cm) rust bubble showing on the outside of each quarter panel. Looks as though I was a little too late with the preventative approach. We'll see if the por15 at least prevents the rust from spreading as quickly. Will take a picture when I have a chance.

uniseriate

I know this is six months after the last post but any updates on the rust progression?

I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator in the interior much like you did with POR-15 and haven't noticed anything yet but then again I haven't driven it much. Still hoping that I caught it in time.

ButterBall

Here are some pictures as it stands December 1, 2010:

DC2.2_GSR

It looks as if you've done an alright job of slowing it down a bit, but you had no hope of getting rid of it completely. The only way to truly fix rust is to remove every last trace of it and start fresh with proper repair techniques. Fixing rust requires body work.

jasoncrashtech

it looks good but dc is right. they didn't use metal bond or foams in those area's like they do now. a way to prevent this is applying body wax before there is a rust problem.