rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

Ok this is the deal, I've decided to paint my engine bay after shaving it. I bought my paint electron blue pearl in rattle can, I prepped the crap out of the bay and I used rattle can rust oleum epoxy primer, primer job was perfect. Not know or doing any research I learned the hard way after I sprayed the final base coat, and clear coat the paint starterd bubbling and rejecting the primer, here are some pics.



I've now purchased the correct matching filler/primer and paint and clear to be used in gun .
main question is do I have to sand down to metal, or can I just smooth the wrinkled area and scuff the clear, to re prime and paint?

Hidenplanvew

Its hard to tell by the picture, almost looks like you had some kind of contamination on the primer. Did you use wax and grease remover before painting? Or you waited to long between coats for your temp, if its contamination you need to remove to bare metal and prep first, seal, then re primer, sand the primer and seal (if you can) the base and clear. I know, lots of info, but that is how I would fix it. I would tho find some hidden lines that you can mask to, to make it harder to see the repair area.

There are many ways to do this, my way is just one

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

I did not use any chemicals on the work. I think its either compatibility between the primer and paint, rust oleum can primer with duplicolor 2 stage base, and clear, and maybe temperature since it was cold and I was using a heater in a open garage.

I will try to smooth the paint to at least the primer, fill with thick primer and try again with all the same brand in a spray gun. but I am no expert so I will try your way, if its not pain in the butt.

Hidenplanvew

it could be a issue wit chemical adhesion, you can try for mechanical adhesion (sanding). sand it all to somewhere you can hide a paint line, mask the rest of the car off and shoot away. If everything is good you can use a small can of epoxy primer from DuPont. To me paint is something of beauty and skill so I don't mind doing it the hard way to make it perfect. If you have more questions feel free to hit me up, sucks givig advice over the internet but ill help however I can.

Hidenplanvew

don't mind my miss spellings, my keyboard sucks.. Im sitting in my mixing room doing this, so there is paint on everything lol... Nothing like watching paint flash off between coats!

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks you for your advise, will be attempting to sand it and try again soon.

ArborRich83

I like the color

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

I did this today


hope its enough to get the new spray filler/primer to stick.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

Electron blue pearl b95-p in bright light with a cell phone camera.

Sic_DA_Nine

use a primer sealer

OneBadTurboCRV

I know this is older, but your issue most likely was from mixing brands. I had same thing happen to me when making my sons Pinewood Derby cars. I thought the first was a fluke, but tried different paints and same thing happened. My the first time it was primer and the second time it was the clear. Learned my lesson... but brand isn't enough. The second time I used same brand but not the same series of paint.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

yeah I realized that my second try, I tested a hidden spot with a spray can primer over the mixed primer and it once again wrinkled. so now I am using the same brands all around in a spray gun.

CD5Tuner1221

Your first problem was using a rattlecan. The easiest way to put it is that in an aersol can their isn't any hardener in it. So the paint never truly dries. It doesn't cure. So, in my profession opinion i would say sand all the aersol paint off. Then, since you said you got real auto paint, i would spray etch primer on all bare metal, prime the bay, then spend a day or two blocking all the flat surfaces and then take a red scuff pad by 3m and scuff anywhere you couldn't block, then spray a sealer, base coat until it covers, then two (or three if you feel the need) coats of clear. then it should be super glossy and sexy. make sure to wipe everything except for body filler with wax and grease remover before spraying any paint.

gorillafart

iTrader: (1)

paints dont always need a hardner to dry. i've never used a hardener in my paint before... in the clearcoat or primers, but not the paint. the problem with Aerosol paint cans is the film build and coverage isnt suitable for big projects, but for little projects it works adequately. its never not dried.

OP's engine bay likely started bubbling and peeling due to either an oily/unclean surface, or incompatible paint products used. the quality of rattle cans aint the greatest.

CD5Tuner1221

idc who you are or what youre painting, aerosol cans never do a very good job. All paints need hardeners. any single step paint isnt adequate for a car. gets the job done, but quality and the amount of time it will last makes the biggest difference, any aersol clear will dull out extremely fast and you cannot cut and buff it as its too soft.

gorillafart

iTrader: (1)

Yes, i have stated that the quality of rattlecans is not ideal. but as far as professional automotive paint finishes go, there are definitely quality single stage paints you can buy. they've been used for many decades before the two stage basecoat and clearcoat came along. Basecoat + clearcoat is just the better technology as of now.... i've never needed a hardener in my basecoats... its just mixed with reducer. a solvent for solvent paints, and a waterbase mixture for waterborne paints. let it flash, and spray clearcoat.

B18CUL8R

My guesses are a dirty surface, or too heavy on the clear coat.

Are you cleaning the surface before spraying it? (thinner, alcohol, etc). And are you applying the clear in one heavy coat?

Hidenplanvew

Ya, base paint does not need any kind of harder, just reduce and go. I think Honda used single stage paint till like 90 or 95 on most Honda products. No it doesn't last as long but will last a while with protection from UV light. I have used a few single stage paints the come out looking almost like base and clear.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

sorry for my late reply. the new H-T layout cause a lot of missed previous thread since they removed that option, since I usually just hit that button to see replies to all my previous threads, now since that was removed I have to go through all my threads to see updates.(that was my little ran)
I used silicone remover to clean surface before paint. I am convinced it was caused by the compatibility of different brands, and not even the issue of being rattle can. I recently re primed the area using paint a gun, after I removed the masking I realized that I missed a spot so I hit it with the rattle can primer from previous attempt, guess what happened? the primer bubbled, brought me to the final conclusion that its a brand compatibility issue.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

CD5Tuner1221

Yes, clear has hardener in it, basecoat is different. Thats what i meant. Single stage paints have been around for a loooong time, i know. I have a '72 beetle with single stage. I just wish everyone on this page knew their was a lightly more expensive way to paint their cars. just use urathane based paints and itll be real cheap and a pretty decent quality.

chasting

RIGHT BEFORE YOU PAINT ALWAYS WAH IT DOWN USING 2 RAGS WITH DUPONT PREP SOLVENT.....REMOVES ALL GREASE ETC.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

I use silicone remover