blanktape

Hi guys, I have this DIY Project in mind just want to ask how feasible it is and get some expert opinon....

I own a 95 accord and the rust starts popping out recent years.

First I ignored them, but now the problem starts to spread.

Heard lots of horrible stories about rust pop back after the repair, so I decide to take on the project, at least I can make sure the rust will be clean thoroughly, if I screw it up and the rust come back I wont feel so bad since it is a cheap patch job.

I removed side skirts and rear bumper to further diagnose the problem.


DRIVER SIDE QUARTER PANEL


DRIVER SIDE QUARTER PANEL



PASSENGER SIDE QUARTER PANEL

Here is a little graphic explain how the rust form.... So if you see bubbles on your panel your inner panel is also been effected.



1. Using Rotary tool to cut out all the rust, grind down the paint.
(Try to save as much solid metal as possible)

2. Using Por 15 start up kit to clean and encapsulate rust.



Maybe try using this for hard to reach place...

3. Using wire mesh and and epoxy putty to rebuild rust panels.


4. After putty cured, another coat of Por 15.

5. Primer and paint...and undercoat the back side.....


This is the plan, what you guys think??

blanktape

I lived pretty close to the border so I picked up my order at point roberts, WA.
I ordered my por 15 supply from stoprust.net. Great savings compared to the Canadian e-retailer.

Also spent $40 dollars on a 250 pieces rotary tool (dremel).

The reason is so that I can make clean more accurate cuts, and this set comes with reinforced discs which makes cutting easy.

Following are the stuff I picked up at local Canadian tires and Home Depot: spents about $80

A set of goggle, face mask, sander block, 60/220/320grit sand paper, masking tape, plastic spreader, sponge brush, undercoating spray, reinforced discs.

Today I spent about 4 hours working on the rust.

I AM A TOTALLY NEWBIE AND HAD 0 EXPERIENCE!
COMMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME!


Driver side had work done by previous owner, and I discover it is covered with body filler. I cut off a piece of rust with dremel and sand it a bit.


Here is the driver side quarter panel, look how rust eats through the inner panel.


Here is the passenger side skirt, still a little bit of rust spots left.


And here is the passenger side quarter panel.

I still need to remove all the body filler on the driver side, there might be more bad rust cover underneath.

Thanks for watching!

Hanahawaiian

I used alot Por15 on my few cars like 70 Nova and 69 Nova... also some my Evo IX like rear reforcement bar.. Por 15 work so amazing.. u can put primer on it or Bondos..
I work Collision Shop.. most shop have that products.. Por 15 is Great Stuff

1991civicsi

For the area where the rust needed to be cut out completely, it would be best to weld a small patch to cover the hole. Body filler will then even out the repair.

ken9

I have this same issuse with you. I just hate the weather in Canada sometimes. It would be best to cut and weld and yeah i have por 15 and it good stuff. Just make sure have the surface clean up and dry. See if you can put some fiberglass into.

blanktape

Thanks for the suggestion.

I do not have access to welder, and I was quoted bloddy $1000 per side for cut and weld and they do not guaranteed the rust will not come back.

$2000 you can almost do a complete repaint...

oh well, maybe I do not have the connection.

The reason behind this is for people who are like me. Living on limited budget but also wants the car to look nice.. at least rust free....

To rebuild the inner / outer panel I will be using epoxy putty. These are strong stuff.. I will give it a good beating see how well it holds.

EK-ek

keep us updated looks good so far!

1991civicsi

If a welder is not an option, fiberglass would work.

Hanahawaiian

Welding is better... beacsue it will stop Rust spread "cancers" then put Etch prime or Por 15 on it..

Orangegsx

A solid option for a half *** fix is kitty hair. That **** is ridiculously strong and will stick forever.

blanktape

Spent another 4 hours last night to tackle the project.

First more grinding and cutting. I removed all the loose rust and make sure the remaining metal are still in good structure. I did not file the loose metal because when later I put on epoxy putty it has something to grab on to.


DRIVER SIDE


PASSENGER SIDE


DRIVER SIDE WHEEL WELL

Honda did a really bad caulking job caused this wheel well to rust.
The wheel well wasn't even seal tight! Also the stupid rubber protection just trap moisture in there and over time it turns into rust.


Now for the POR 15 PRODUCTS ....

First Marine-claen : I mixed it with ratio 1:5

I did not rinse them with water I do not want water to trap inside the fenders. I used sponge and paper towel with hot water slowly clean the area.





Let it dry over night, then Metal ready....

UPDATE Jan 28: Today I prep the area with Metal ready. I leave them on for an hour. This stuff is recommend best work in 18-32 degree (64-89 f)

I then use sponge and clean it with hot water... Let it dry over night...

After thought....

If it wasn't Honda's bad caulking, the rust will not be there.
Honda originally used really weak material and it just simply failed overtime.
They trap moisture and I have to be honest even if I paid a bodyshop to do it and if they did not spend the time to diagnose the problem, completely seal the fenders,the rust will still come back.

EK-ek

now do work! haha cant wait for more updates.

ken9

Here another thing you should look out for. Try to look behind or under neat the where the rust is, because sometimes there might be big holes or small gap that moisture can go in and creat the rust again...I got big ugly holes on the other sides that i have to lay some fiberglass...

blanktape

Thanks for your suggestion, I used a hammer tap the whole quarter panel, and what I did not cut off is still good metal. Like I said, the inner panel already lost a huge chunk.

I also plan on to undercoat just to add extra protection.

Ek-ek:

Thanks for the encouragement!, I will keep it update frequently.
Due to wet weather in Vancouver, each time I clean the surface I let it dry overnight.
Hopefully tonight I can finish coating Por15 and start molding the panel tomorrow.

EK-ek

awesome. I plan on doing this very soon also but its like -30 over here in mn (overexaggeration) but seriously its freezing.

precisionsc54

Im afraid for you that the rust is still going to come back. It looks pretty rusty on the inside still. Any spec of rust thats left will spread. I suggest you really use that POR15 hardcore on the inside of the QP. I always use rust converter spray and spray the crap outta everything. Then make sure moisture isnt going to be an issue in the future. Ditch those plastic lip liners and reseal the metal with some good seam sealer. I have swapped over tons of QP's and fixed alot of rust so this is coming from experience. Most guys just plop some bondo over it and think they fixed it. Only to see some nasty bubbles starting to come through the paint a few mths later.

ken9

I hate to see those ugly nasty bubbles coming thought the paint. After sanding it off. All i see a some holes on the metal. Laying bondo wouldn't work. Anyone here know what would be good to fix that beside cutting it?

Orangegsx

OP, Use this stuff for structure. Then lay a coat of body filler over it and work it smooth.

ken9

Look like a regular body filler to me. I usually lay down fiberglass and then body filler.. That stuff become hard like stone...

blanktape

Apply Por 15: 2 coats of por 15, each coat wait about 6 hours.
Total wasted two brushes because they turn into rock hard after each use.
I used 1" brush so it can reach pretty much anywhere.

REMEMBER TO WEAR GOGGLES, A HAT AND GLOVES WHEN APPLYING POR 15.

Brush the inside of the wheel well first. When working under the car, por 15 can spill all over the place. I learn it the hard way. I had some Por 15 split on my face and it takes a good 20 mins wash to get them off. Got some on my hair and it just cured and i have to cut them off. Not to mention that I forgot to wear goggles and I could potential blind myself with this stuff.



DRIVER SIDE QUARTER PANEL


DRIVER SIDE WHEEL WELL - CUT MORE OPEN AND POR IT HARD!



PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL WELL


PASSENGER QUARTER PANEL

Now here is the fun part... EPOXY PUTTY

They come in two clay like bars, mix even portion of A and B -
I used 40% of them on each quarter panel. 10 % on the wheel well.
Use bare hands and give it a good mix for 15 mins.....they feel like clay.....

You will know when it is ready - it generates heat and you can feel.

and just stuff them into the quarter panel.






I also seal an water bottle and see if it is as advertised will cure in water.
We will find out later.

I plan on to add another two coats of por 15 before apply straightline body filler then prime it.

Thanks for watching.

EK-ek

Nice! lookin good

ken9

Can you actually sand that putty? Would be nice to smooth it out..

blanktape

Luckly I used utility knife to shape the putty last night before it completely cured. Now it is rock hard.

Here is a little video I made about epoxy putty and see how putty hold up against hammer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVHcoG6qAyM

precisionsc54

seems kinda ghetto to me. I wouldnt stick putty into my QP. I would cut out the rust weld in a patch undercoat it really good and call it a day.

blanktape

To weld in an inner panel in this tight space will be almost impossible, it would need to cut more and not to mention sanding weld and make it smooth will take lots of time.

I know welding is the proper way to get it done. This is an Accord not collectable Shelby GT. I can understand why shop charge a lot on quarter panel rust repair there is a lot of work involve.

I dont have access to a welder and this is a 16 years old car and i dont want to spend a fortune on repair. If the rust holes were bigger I would not attempt with this method.