base coat came out rough
#1
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base coat came out rough
hey so im painting my ef hatch with duplicolor auto paint. well i put down coats and some parts are kinda smooth while most of it is rough like sand paper. should i wet sand it then put another coat on or just leave it and put another coat on and then clear coat and then sand and buff the clear so its flat. btw this is in my garage
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Re: base coat came out rough
Im with that guy ^^^
or you're spraying it way too dry.
Theres so many things it could be.
Did you blow out the car completely with compressed air before starting?
Grease and wax it?
Tack Rag it?
What pressure are you using, and through what gun?
Metallic base?
Pearl base?
Solid color base?
Info would help a little....
or you're spraying it way too dry.
Theres so many things it could be.
Did you blow out the car completely with compressed air before starting?
Grease and wax it?
Tack Rag it?
What pressure are you using, and through what gun?
Metallic base?
Pearl base?
Solid color base?
Info would help a little....
#4
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Re: base coat came out rough
ok car was clean. im using a husky gravity fed hvlp gun. dupli color paint, base coat. i didn't tack rag it, but i cleaned with soap and water then mineral spirits, i put on another coat today and it came out a lot better. i think it was too much fluid coming out and too close to the car. so i tuned it some and it came out better. im going to wet sand it and see how it is.
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Re: base coat came out rough
ok car was clean. im using a husky gravity fed hvlp gun. dupli color paint, base coat. i didn't tack rag it, but i cleaned with soap and water then mineral spirits, i put on another coat today and it came out a lot better. i think it was too much fluid coming out and too close to the car. so i tuned it some and it came out better. im going to wet sand it and see how it is.
Slim
#6
Re: base coat came out rough
I have been plagued with this rough metallic basecoat problem for over a year, re-painting the same dam hood like a dozen times. I initially thought the problem was that I did not open the garage door enough and that the overpray was accumulating and resettling back down on the spray surface. I have tested and now know with 100% certainty that rough basecoat is caused by gun settings too DRY. Everyone on youtube keeps saying 29-30 PSI and about 3 turns out. I don't know why but this isn't working for metallic basecoat in both valspar and PPG omni. The SOLUTION is turn down PSI to about 20 and the gun should be 1 fist length away from the surface and 3 turns on the fluid needle from closed position. This is not the ideal solution so play with the distance to surface and the fluid turns. but the end effect is the basecoat now lays like glass, literally it looks like it already has clearcoat on it and it's smooth as glass. the downside is the flash time is crazy now, maybe 20+ minutes. also it doesn't look like you will need more than 1 coat. I beats having rough basecoat though. the fix may be as simple as only using 2 or 2.5 fluid turns wound out or maybe increase the spray to surface distance, who knows, but THIS IS DEFINITELY A WORKING SOLUTION, please pass on this tip. FYI my gun is the devilbiss tekna prolite.
to spray clear coat like glass I use 3 turns out, the gun should be really close, maybe 1 fist length from surface. I can't remember if I have to also slow down my passes, the secret is simply keep the gun close to the surface. on the last coat whether you do 2 or 3 coats I add about 1 capful or 1 teaspoon of reducer mixed with the 4:1 clear coat to get the final glass finish. no reducer on the first coats to prevent dieback. even if your clear coat has no mix ration for reducer you can use it. also stay the F away from proline yellow label clear coat, UPOL is the parent company. my clear coat kept cracking even if I wait to spray it over bae coat weeks later. the store lady kept telling me it was because I was a newbie and didn't know what I was doing, wrong. Proline has chemicals in it that as similar to paint stripper, I tested this theory by spraying their reducer straight onto basecoat and it caused cracking immediately. you say that's BS? wrong I tested PPG mr186 medium reducer and another brand, it didn't cause cracking. STAY THE F AWAY FROM PROLINE PRODUCTS AND BY EXTENSION UPOL. the store lady said the locals shops swore by proline clear coat, she kept insisting I was an idiot. solution: don't listen to store owners at paint shops they know nothing, actually worse than nothing, way worse
to spray clear coat like glass I use 3 turns out, the gun should be really close, maybe 1 fist length from surface. I can't remember if I have to also slow down my passes, the secret is simply keep the gun close to the surface. on the last coat whether you do 2 or 3 coats I add about 1 capful or 1 teaspoon of reducer mixed with the 4:1 clear coat to get the final glass finish. no reducer on the first coats to prevent dieback. even if your clear coat has no mix ration for reducer you can use it. also stay the F away from proline yellow label clear coat, UPOL is the parent company. my clear coat kept cracking even if I wait to spray it over bae coat weeks later. the store lady kept telling me it was because I was a newbie and didn't know what I was doing, wrong. Proline has chemicals in it that as similar to paint stripper, I tested this theory by spraying their reducer straight onto basecoat and it caused cracking immediately. you say that's BS? wrong I tested PPG mr186 medium reducer and another brand, it didn't cause cracking. STAY THE F AWAY FROM PROLINE PRODUCTS AND BY EXTENSION UPOL. the store lady said the locals shops swore by proline clear coat, she kept insisting I was an idiot. solution: don't listen to store owners at paint shops they know nothing, actually worse than nothing, way worse
Last edited by eksine; 07-03-2020 at 09:30 PM.
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