HackeN

Okay I got a problem, but really don't know what to do.

Basically I've already painted the entire body of the car, along with door jams, but with the exception of the engine bay/trunk. Well I went ahead and sprayed the bay/trunk now that it was all ready. When spraying the body I taped off the trunk/bay inside the jams so I didn't disturb anything settled inside those areas etc. (It's a MR2, bay/trunk in rear). Well when I sprayed the bay/trunk, the previous paint in the jam lifted. I don't really understand why it did, but I'd like to know the best way to address that specific area.

My problem is, if I sand down what was lifted, even down to primer, it will just start lifting again (it being the base/clear?) but further out. So what can I do if the new basecoat just keeps lifting the previous basecoat without respraying the ENTIRE car? (not going to happen...)

The DBC does NOT requre a activator/hardener. Directions spec'd a mixing ratio of 1:1 which I followed (other part being reducer). There is an OPTIONAL activator available (I would have got if I KNEW lol...) which changes ratio (if added) to 1:1:5% (5% being activator).

I sprayed a 2042 Concept clear, 4:1:1 per directions.

The base/clear sprayed on the body sat about a week or so before I got time to spray the bay/trunk.

It's just a jam, in the trunk, that won't be used on a weekend car, but it bothers me. I'd just like to be able to make it look pretty decent.

Any help appreciated. Our painter at work is of no help... lol.

DC2.2_GSR

Some pics would help. I don't really understand what you mean about the previous paint lifting. The new basecoat should have no effect on the old. My guess is it's that there was a prep problem and the new base is the actual problem, but without pics I can't be sure. I use DBC for solvent work on occasion and I know you mixed it right, so there's no problem there. The activator for base is unnecessary and is only used if you're going to keep the basecoat exposed to the elements.. i.e. in an engine bay where you're not going to clear it.

HackeN

on the right side of the hole in the center you can see some lift. I'm almost positive it isn't a prep problem. I've googled a bit since I posted and it seems a pretty common issue people have. People explained it, but I didn't fully understand what they meant. From what I've read on google what is suggested is to apply very light coats of the basecoat, until it covers/hides the repair area, let it flash then clear/blend.



here's some stuff i found in relation to my problem...

"if i have a cut through with dbc i just spray a few light coats untill it gets covered as long as u don't wet the spot completly it shouldn't lift. Just use could technique when u spray your paint. lower pressure also helps to keep from getting it too wet. pretty easy really."

"I do see a potential problem that hasn't been addressed so far. You stand a really good chance of the the border area between where you applied the clear and uncleared base to lift the base/clear in that blended area (thats assuming you didn't tape of the rest of the car and just clear only the complete fender). I personally use DBU base for a couple reasons. One is that the DBU along with its reactive reducer will eliminate any lifting problems like you may encounter with the unhardened DBC."

"I don't like the DBC because of its sensitivity so I still use DBU. When spraying the spot you will just dust it lightly with color and do the same with
first coat of clear. then you can finish up with a wet coat of clear."