ATISTANG

So this is what I got to fix. I'm not sure, but i think when i start grinding this rust off i will have a small hole. Also I am not looking to get professional results, this is my dd and i just want to try and make it look nice again even if it only last another 5 years (the repairs)








I'm thinking if there is a hole then using some of that fiber glass body filler (it shouldnt be much of a hole, i hope) then prime, sand, paint, clear





Now the next piece of body work, the front bumper. someone rear ended a trailer hitch. i'm really at a loss on how to go about fixing this. and advice?






Now for the rest of the car, mainly just rook, truck, and hood. the clear coat is gone. so can i just sand the rest of the clear off, then wet sand, paint (base coat) then clear? or do i need to primer also?










i plan to get spray paint from paint scratch. I figure 4-6 coats of base. then 2-3 coats of clear. how does that sound? also on areas like the bumper and quarter panel. how do i blend that? do i just feather the spray nozzle out when i get to the old paint?

lastly when i'm all done i should buff with compound to help it blend better right? which compound? by hand or with a buffer?


any advice on prep, materials, or technique would be greatly appreciated. when i got my first crx 10 years ago it was in this same condition and i never did anything about it because i wasnt sure how. this time i want to fix it before it takes over the car.

p.s. i dont have a big enough compressor, or a big enough garage to use a paint gun. other wise i would go that route

NoWorry's

That rust doesn't look that bad, if it doesn't make a hole then remove all the surface rust and lay some fiberglass body filler on. If it does make a hole, you should cut out the infected area and weld in new piece, grind, then finerglass body filler.

You got the right idea though, the fiberglass gets like a rock so you'll need a rough grit (40-50) and when you throw you first hand of bondo make it nice and filling so when it's Close to fully dry, you hit it evenly with a cheese grator to save some time with sanding.

Look into an aftermarket/used bumper.. Way cheaper

I recently did a friends accord with the same fading on the roof and I chose to lay some primer on the areas to kind of 'seal' it. Plus I just hit it with a 180-220 grit on the DA sander since I was repairing rust anyways and the clear takes some time to feather out with 600 grit.

Good luck with the spray paint, just be patient and even with it




Buffing by hand takes ages..

ATISTANG

so i should wet sand after i lay the clear to feather it?

I just got the car a few months ago and it looks like the own used to take it off roading with all the scratches so i was thinking about buying a porter cable buffer and giving that a go. its something i've always wanted to learn to do so this seems like the perfect learning car lol


the rust doesnt look to bad, but if you push on it, it is very easy to flex what metal is left.

aside from a ton of sanding is, is there any other reason i shouldnt fill a small hole with filler? will it fall out?


thanks

NoWorry's

I dont know how well a spray paint clear will buff back after being wet sanded. I honestly never bothered buffing something I'm spraying with a rattle can... like putting a dress on a pig

Also the thing with the rust is it'll always come back, it's just a matter of how the job is done that will determine when.. That's why we don't fill rust holes with body filler because the infected area is still there, your just putting a blanket on it. Once it wants to further spread, (24/7) it'll begin to crack all the body work.


I once did a cheap job for a friend to pass inspection, the rust kept breaking through so he said just fill it with fiberglass so I did.. No word of a lie, by the time I wet sanded the primer it was already rusting through.

Edit* also for the blends, if it meets the next closest panel you'll have to blend it.. I put a paper covering the blend area along the line the panels meet, (don't do this in the middle of a panel as it will obviously leave a noticeable line.)cover all the primer with 2 coat base , remove paper and feather the last hand, or put 2 final coats of the real color.

A trick is you can pull the can further away as you blend (2ft farthest) , might not feel like its laying down but it is

More then happy too help, post up pics when you get it done.

ATISTANG

will do, is there anywhere to get patch panels for 4dr integras? or will i have to make my own?

ATISTANG

So I think I am going to try and sand blast the rust first and see where that gets me.

Hidenplanvew

The metal is trash you need a dog leg patch panal so I think you mightbe able to use a 4 door accord part as you will have to shrink and stretch.

ATISTANG

if i'm going to have to make something work i will probably just cut something at work


what gauge steel should i use?

Hidenplanvew

I think its 22 gauge if I remember correctly

blu00Si

doesnt matter what it is stock. id use something like 18 though. if its too thin you will blow through pretty easily with the welder