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ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics.

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Old 01-04-2008, 04:52 AM
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Default ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics.

i have a 2004 CBR 600 F4i.. and for whatever reason, starting in 2004, they had some great idea of making my bike with a single, huge long banana seat.. anyways, alot of 04+ owners have been swaping tail sections of older bikes, in order to have a traditional split seat, sport bike look..

anyways, i found this tail section for dirt cheap, and these things go for large amounts of chips.. over 150 used.. hundreds of bucks new, and unpainted..

anyways.. any advice.





is it possible to maybe use play-doe and make a mold, and lay down epoxy or something to create a new mounting hole?

also, the scratches on the side arn't that deep at all.. im guessing a quick fill and a sand should do it up. im more concerned in the cracked/missing mounting hole.
Old 01-04-2008, 08:39 AM
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Default Re: ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics. (Built B16A)

Everything is definetly fixable.

your going to need to o a little plastic welding and some filling. for the missing peice i would probably opt for some flexible fiberglass material.

and if you've never done body work before, this isnt an easy task, i'd leave it to a professional!
Old 01-04-2008, 09:15 AM
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Default Re: ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics. (gsr dood)

ide love to leave it to a professional, but i don't currently know anyone in the business, and repairs are always questionable when it comes to labor.. thats the scary part. so if i do my homework, fix it myself.. and take it somewhere to be painted.. paint is somewhat constant.

in a way, my feelings are like... a engine haul, or a large repair may differ from shop to shop, but oil changes are always pretty much flat lined.

anyways, can you show me some of this plastic weld your talking about?
Old 01-04-2008, 09:24 AM
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Default Re: ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics. (Built B16A)



i did a quick search on google, for plastic weld, and found this.. anyways, my idea is to get some of this stuff, and take a negative mold of the good hole. with something thats dense and will harden.. maybe play-doe, or that silly puddy, and then put it in the broken side, and fill the back of it out, and either break up the mold, and brush it out, or dig it out with something.
Old 01-04-2008, 02:19 PM
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Default Re: ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics. (Built B16A)

lol, no they come in strips. there black strips that you heat with a soldering iron. Theyre about $30 for a set of 10 or 15 which should be more than enough. The strips almost look like linguine (sp?) the type of spaghetti.

It provides a tight bond to hold that crack. The strips are the exact same material as the bike parts. Your going to wanna get the black polyester strips. When you plastic weld i, make sort of what you see s laces on a football. You wanna "stitch" the crack. its hard to explain but you wanna do all this work on the underside of the crack, no the painted part. When your finished, the plastic weld should look like football laces.

On the painted side, your gunna wanna grind the crack a bit and fill it with a flexible body filler made for polyester. DO NOT USE ANY HARD FILLERS like bondo brand filler.

let me know if i can help more or clarify anything
Old 01-04-2008, 03:35 PM
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Default Re: ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics. (gsr dood)

http://www.plastex.ca/repairs/motorcycle.asp

good website for you tooo look into.... look through the entire site, you'll be happy you did.
Old 01-04-2008, 06:01 PM
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Default Re: ABS repair.. motorcycle plastics. (gsr dood)

make sure you called the maker of the kit and ask if the stuff works for abs, there's thermoset/thermoplastic out there that only bond with weird **** sh-t.

Old 01-05-2008, 09:46 PM
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great info GSR DOOD.. i'll be getting ahold of you soon, when i start my repairs. painting really isn't my gig.. but if i can save alittle money on the body work, im more than willing to give it a try.
Old 01-08-2008, 02:22 AM
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Default Re: (Built B16A)

bump, how are you supposed to fill rash marks if you don't use bondo?
Old 01-08-2008, 08:29 AM
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Default Re: (Fallen86)

the rash marks need body filler, but a flexible body filler made for plastics. im just saying "BONDO" brand body filler isnt gunna cut it.
Old 01-08-2008, 10:23 AM
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What a couple friends and I ahve done is just grabbed a spare cunk of fairing (like a broken piece from a bike bone yard) and used a soldering iron to first melt the panel back together slightly, and then continue melting in the spare chunk. If you take your time and melt it in, making sure to penetrate the panel so it melds with the new material, you'll end up with a pretty nice product. The back might not be pretty, but who's looking at the back?
Old 01-08-2008, 08:29 PM
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Default Re: (gsr dood)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr dood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the rash marks need body filler, but a flexible body filler made for plastics. im just saying "BONDO" brand body filler isnt gunna cut it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, any suggestions on these types of fillers? i was at autozone and i didnt notice anything that was meant for filling plastic or was flexible
Old 01-09-2008, 12:47 PM
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Default Re: (Fallen86)

if you use that hot iron to melt the plastic.. you mentioned a soildering iron.. but i don't want to ruin mine, and i know i paid a fair amount of money for it... so are theyre cheaper irons out there designed for this? besides i don't want to ruin my soildering iron i still use.

also, i have placed my order for that plastex repair kit from canada.. shouldn't be too long till i have it. and i also paid extra for more of that mold bar. that way i can hopefully re-create that missing bolt hole. i also got plenty of extra fiber re-enformcent cloth.

hope this stuff works, seams really cool, and i could have plenty more use other than just this faring repair.
Old 01-10-2008, 12:56 AM
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Default Re: (Fallen86)

autozone is not a paint store, those bondo brand stuff sucks *****

the one you want to use is polyester poly-flex by everclear, it's in an accordian bottle, about 30 buck with the blue hardener. They goes on silky smooth, sand easy and works great with bare plastic.

yeah 30 buck is alot but you'll save it on the finish, time and sanding

Old 01-10-2008, 12:57 AM
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Default Re: (gsr dood)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr dood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the rash marks need body filler, but a flexible body filler made for plastics. im just saying "BONDO" brand body filler isnt gunna cut it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

or just a polyester primer after it's sanded down.

those thing builds and fills like crazy
Old 01-10-2008, 08:13 AM
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Default Re: (iam7head)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">autozone is not a paint store, those bondo brand stuff sucks *****

the one you want to use is polyester poly-flex by everclear, it's in an accordian bottle, about 30 buck with the blue hardener. They goes on silky smooth, sand easy and works great with bare plastic.

yeah 30 buck is alot but you'll save it on the finish, time and sanding

</TD></TR></TABLE>


correction - "evercoat"

not everclear, the 9999999999 proof liquor
Old 01-10-2008, 09:44 AM
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Default Re: (gsr dood)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr dood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


correction - "evercoat"

not everclear, the 9999999999 proof liquor </TD></TR></TABLE>

ding ding ding

Old 01-12-2008, 08:55 PM
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Default Re: (iam7head)

use poly-flex made by evercoat pn# 411
Old 01-18-2008, 10:13 AM
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Default Re: (2'z kuztoms)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2’z kuztoms &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use poly-flex made by evercoat pn# 411</TD></TR></TABLE>



do they make this any smaller? thats huge.. and also kinda pricey for my repair. i think i would only need about a 1/4 of that. i stopped at a local paint supply, and they had it.. but wanted $38 bucks. not that its not worth it, but i would'nt have a use for the 3/4 left over.
Old 01-18-2008, 05:04 PM
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they only sell it like that
Old 01-18-2008, 11:00 PM
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Default Re: (2'z kuztoms)

alright, so i bucked up and bought it.. didn't think it was going to be that much, but oh well, i'll learn how to do something new.

ok.. so now what kind of steps should i take in using this?

i got the big bottle, and a small tube of hardener... whats the mix ratio?

on the back of the evercoat, it says a small ribbon of hardener to a 4'' puddle of filler. explain a "ribbon".

also, what kind of prep should i do to the gouges before applying the puddy? what do i clean it with also?
Old 01-19-2008, 04:39 AM
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Default Re: (Built B16A)

A ribbon is just a strip. For the 4 inch puddle you add a strip of hardener from end to end and that is your mix ratio.
Old 01-19-2008, 09:22 AM
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ok.. so a ribbon, is actual a ribbon, it would be thin, and stretched right? so like holding the tube up and down, not at a 45 degree, and allowing the hardener to be applied thick?

im just trying to understand how much.

would you assume its similar to laying down a layer of lipstick.

if i were to mix too much hardener into my puddy.. what would happen? to less?
Old 01-19-2008, 11:38 AM
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Default Re: (Built B16A)

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/P...ement

there you go sir
Old 01-19-2008, 09:53 PM
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Default Re: (...rohit)

i apprecaite the link, it was a big help... however, i did order my plastex kit, and im going to give it a shot tomorrow...

but im going to have the better of tomorrow avail for the garage, and i wanted to lay down my filler also.

how much hardener for my puddy?


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