Kswap parts list EG/EK
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Kswap parts list EG/EK
Ok guys after finishing my build a few months back I am always seeing people asking about a parts list on the forums so they can have a good idea of what this swap entails. This is a general parts list for 92-00 civics BUT this is based on my swap with a k20a2 that went into my 96 EK hatchback.
If I mess anything up, feel free to correct me and help everyone learn to do this right!
So here goes a general guideline for anyone interested:
GETTING IT IN THE CAR:
Complete K series engine (20/24/24w20head)
Complete K series trans
Swap mounts (I used Hasports ekk1 kit but I strongly advise using the ekk2 kit. If using the ekk2 kit you will have to cut out the passenger side stock mount bracket and also use a EG subframe and EG rack and pinion.)
The ekk2 mounts will help to get the oil pan higher and the axles aligned better. IF YOU HAVE AN EG THEN YOU WILL NEED EGK1 MOUNTS.
K20 intermediate shaft
Kswap axles (I used Hasports stage 1 axles)
Either an RSX shifter or an Accord shifter that is ment for a k series trans
(however I chose a no cut Ktuned shifter, in 4 months use the bushing is weak and side to side movement is very noticeable. I would rather the RSX shifter)
Karcepts or Ktuned shifter cover (exhaust tunnel needs cut in order to fit stock shifter unless you want to mount it in the car without the interior in place. If you use the no cut shifter this cover is not required.)
COOLING:
You can use a stock radiator if you cut your radiator tabs off and weld them to the left side of the car where the a/c compressor once was. (I chose a mishimoto Kswap radiator, I didn't have to cut or weld anything and it was a double core aluminum rad for 260 bucks.)
Stock top RSX rad hose will fit perfectly so long as you cut about 3 inches off the end that fits to the radiator.
I have herd a stock bottom RSX rad hose works if cut but I used a hybrid racing rad kit and had to cut the bottom one all to hell and couldn't even use the top hose. (this was due to not realizing their hoses are ment for their mount kit only)
Also you will need the stock temp sensor and fan switch from the D series car. (they both bolt right up to the mishimoto rad)
Ktuned inline coolant block for temp sensor and fan switch (if using stock rad)
Push type rad fan (you will have to wire it, I have a diagram on my build thread on how to do this and it can run the stock fan power wire as the switch.)
HELPING IT BREATHE:
Cold air intake (I bought a hybrid racing kswap cold air and cut it in half to tuck it behind the rad, It fit perfectly. I didn't want to cut it but if I used it as it was ment I would have to remove the windshield washer tank)
Kswap header (I used Ktuned's 4-2-1 kswap header, it has a 2.5 inch choke point so if you use 3in exhaust you will need an adapter and a flange welded up)
Custom fitted exhaust system (I would use at least 2.5in tubing)
As for my exhaust system I have a Ktuned universal oval muffler and a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator. It sounds great but it is a loud system. I would recommend a Turbo Thrush muffler from a local auto parts store if quite is what you need but still want a good deep tone.
WIRING:
Swap harness or splice your own wires (good luck with the second option as I went with a Ktuned swap harness and it works great. All I had to do is run a wire to the temp sensor and the fan switch.)
Modified RSX/civic charge harness (K series charge harness isn't long enough for the civic engine bay to reach the battery. hybrid racing covers how to do this if you google it.)
Kpro or an Immobilizer delete from Ktuned to bypass the anti-theft system
(it wont allow the fuel pump to turn on without one of the above)
RETROFITTING FUEL SYSTEM:
Now for the fuel system, your civic has a return fuel system but the K series engine runs on a return-less system. The easiest options are running a kit from hybrid racing but It can be done way cheaper. This being said the stock fuel pump is perfectly fine for the stock K series engine but A better fuel pump is recommended even if you just tune the stock engine.
Aftermarket fuel rail (some people have utilized the stock fuel rail, however I have not researched what is needed to do so)
Fuel pressure regulator (I used a hybrid racing reg but I have been told AEM has one on JEGS for a little cheaper if you decide to build your own system)
Aftermarket fuel filter (only needed if your planning to delete the stock filter for cosmetics, I used the stock filter and it works fine.)
-6an fuel line
-6an adapters for the line to connect to regulator and fuel rail
-4an adapter and line to connect to the stock return off the bottom of the regulator
A COUPLE THINGS TO CONSIDER:
I chose to run a Karcepts AC/PS delete pulley kit, That being said I little info on how to convert the k series AC or Power steering systems to work with the civic. (I know Ktuned sells AC lines which make AC possible but you will have to customize your AC condenser and put it on the right side of the car)
As for running power steering good luck as I have not researched it.
Also its a good idea to get a clutch and flywheel while the used engine and trans are out of the car. And I recommend stronger brakes as your about to see some power.
I wrote this choppy list in less than an hour so although I have proof read just let me know if I missed anything.
If I mess anything up, feel free to correct me and help everyone learn to do this right!
So here goes a general guideline for anyone interested:
GETTING IT IN THE CAR:
Complete K series engine (20/24/24w20head)
Complete K series trans
Swap mounts (I used Hasports ekk1 kit but I strongly advise using the ekk2 kit. If using the ekk2 kit you will have to cut out the passenger side stock mount bracket and also use a EG subframe and EG rack and pinion.)
The ekk2 mounts will help to get the oil pan higher and the axles aligned better. IF YOU HAVE AN EG THEN YOU WILL NEED EGK1 MOUNTS.
K20 intermediate shaft
Kswap axles (I used Hasports stage 1 axles)
Either an RSX shifter or an Accord shifter that is ment for a k series trans
(however I chose a no cut Ktuned shifter, in 4 months use the bushing is weak and side to side movement is very noticeable. I would rather the RSX shifter)
Karcepts or Ktuned shifter cover (exhaust tunnel needs cut in order to fit stock shifter unless you want to mount it in the car without the interior in place. If you use the no cut shifter this cover is not required.)
COOLING:
You can use a stock radiator if you cut your radiator tabs off and weld them to the left side of the car where the a/c compressor once was. (I chose a mishimoto Kswap radiator, I didn't have to cut or weld anything and it was a double core aluminum rad for 260 bucks.)
Stock top RSX rad hose will fit perfectly so long as you cut about 3 inches off the end that fits to the radiator.
I have herd a stock bottom RSX rad hose works if cut but I used a hybrid racing rad kit and had to cut the bottom one all to hell and couldn't even use the top hose. (this was due to not realizing their hoses are ment for their mount kit only)
Also you will need the stock temp sensor and fan switch from the D series car. (they both bolt right up to the mishimoto rad)
Ktuned inline coolant block for temp sensor and fan switch (if using stock rad)
Push type rad fan (you will have to wire it, I have a diagram on my build thread on how to do this and it can run the stock fan power wire as the switch.)
HELPING IT BREATHE:
Cold air intake (I bought a hybrid racing kswap cold air and cut it in half to tuck it behind the rad, It fit perfectly. I didn't want to cut it but if I used it as it was ment I would have to remove the windshield washer tank)
Kswap header (I used Ktuned's 4-2-1 kswap header, it has a 2.5 inch choke point so if you use 3in exhaust you will need an adapter and a flange welded up)
Custom fitted exhaust system (I would use at least 2.5in tubing)
As for my exhaust system I have a Ktuned universal oval muffler and a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator. It sounds great but it is a loud system. I would recommend a Turbo Thrush muffler from a local auto parts store if quite is what you need but still want a good deep tone.
WIRING:
Swap harness or splice your own wires (good luck with the second option as I went with a Ktuned swap harness and it works great. All I had to do is run a wire to the temp sensor and the fan switch.)
Modified RSX/civic charge harness (K series charge harness isn't long enough for the civic engine bay to reach the battery. hybrid racing covers how to do this if you google it.)
Kpro or an Immobilizer delete from Ktuned to bypass the anti-theft system
(it wont allow the fuel pump to turn on without one of the above)
RETROFITTING FUEL SYSTEM:
Now for the fuel system, your civic has a return fuel system but the K series engine runs on a return-less system. The easiest options are running a kit from hybrid racing but It can be done way cheaper. This being said the stock fuel pump is perfectly fine for the stock K series engine but A better fuel pump is recommended even if you just tune the stock engine.
Aftermarket fuel rail (some people have utilized the stock fuel rail, however I have not researched what is needed to do so)
Fuel pressure regulator (I used a hybrid racing reg but I have been told AEM has one on JEGS for a little cheaper if you decide to build your own system)
Aftermarket fuel filter (only needed if your planning to delete the stock filter for cosmetics, I used the stock filter and it works fine.)
-6an fuel line
-6an adapters for the line to connect to regulator and fuel rail
-4an adapter and line to connect to the stock return off the bottom of the regulator
A COUPLE THINGS TO CONSIDER:
I chose to run a Karcepts AC/PS delete pulley kit, That being said I little info on how to convert the k series AC or Power steering systems to work with the civic. (I know Ktuned sells AC lines which make AC possible but you will have to customize your AC condenser and put it on the right side of the car)
As for running power steering good luck as I have not researched it.
Also its a good idea to get a clutch and flywheel while the used engine and trans are out of the car. And I recommend stronger brakes as your about to see some power.
I wrote this choppy list in less than an hour so although I have proof read just let me know if I missed anything.
Last edited by GoldieWang; 04-15-2015 at 08:38 PM.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
Thanks for this write up! I was thinking of doing this swap also. How do you like the a3 as opposed to the z3? I was thinking when the time came for me, doing an itemized excel spreadsheet.
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
The a3 is not a powerful platform from the get go but I have seen builds with it. I know most people use the a2 and the z1 but I would suppose the z3 would work too.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
If you run the k-tuner ecu, a vss Conv box isn't needed to get the eg speedo to read. And you also can run a 05-06 harness but you will need a ha sport Conv harness with 05-06 specs. Just another option out there now. K tuner ecu uses the 05-06 Rsx-s primary O2 and its a lot cheaper than the 02-04 o2
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
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#8
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
Ok guys after finishing my build a few months back I am always seeing people asking about a parts list on the forums so they can have a good idea of what this swap entails. This is a general parts list for 92-00 civics BUT this is based on my swap with a k20a2 that went into my 96 EK hatchback.
If I mess anything up, feel free to correct me and help everyone learn to do this right!
So here goes a general guideline for anyone interested:
GETTING IT IN THE CAR:
Complete K series engine (20/24/24w20head)
Complete K series trans
Swap mounts (I used Hasports ekk1 kit but I strongly advise using the ekk2 kit. If using the ekk2 kit you will have to cut out the passenger side stock mount bracket and also use a EG subframe and EG rack and pinion.)
The ekk2 mounts will help to get the oil pan higher and the axles aligned better. IF YOU HAVE AN EG THEN YOU WILL NEED EGK1 MOUNTS.
K20 intermediate shaft
Kswap axles (I used Hasports stage 1 axles)
Either an RSX shifter or an Accord shifter that is ment for a k series trans
(however I chose a no cut Ktuned shifter, in 4 months use the bushing is weak and side to side movement is very noticeable. I would rather the RSX shifter)
Karcepts or Ktuned shifter cover (exhaust tunnel needs cut in order to fit stock shifter unless you want to mount it in the car without the interior in place. If you use the no cut shifter this cover is not required.)
COOLING:
You can use a stock radiator if you cut your radiator tabs off and weld them to the left side of the car where the a/c compressor once was. (I chose a mishimoto Kswap radiator, I didn't have to cut or weld anything and it was a double core aluminum rad for 260 bucks.)
Stock top RSX rad hose will fit perfectly so long as you cut about 3 inches off the end that fits to the radiator.
I have herd a stock bottom RSX rad hose works if cut but I used a hybrid racing rad kit and had to cut the bottom one all to hell and couldn't even use the top hose. (this was due to not realizing their hoses are ment for their mount kit only)
Also you will need the stock temp sensor and fan switch from the D series car. (they both bolt right up to the mishimoto rad)
Ktuned inline coolant block for temp sensor and fan switch (if using stock rad)
Push type rad fan (you will have to wire it, I have a diagram on my build thread on how to do this and it can run the stock fan power wire as the switch.)
HELPING IT BREATHE:
Cold air intake (I bought a hybrid racing kswap cold air and cut it in half to tuck it behind the rad, It fit perfectly. I didn't want to cut it but if I used it as it was ment I would have to remove the windshield washer tank)
Kswap header (I used Ktuned's 4-2-1 kswap header, it has a 2.5 inch choke point so if you use 3in exhaust you will need an adapter and a flange welded up)
Custom fitted exhaust system (I would use at least 2.5in tubing)
As for my exhaust system I have a Ktuned universal oval muffler and a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator. It sounds great but it is a loud system. I would recommend a Turbo Thrush muffler from a local auto parts store if quite is what you need but still want a good deep tone.
WIRING:
Swap harness or splice your own wires (good luck with the second option as I went with a Ktuned swap harness and it works great. All I had to do is run a wire to the temp sensor and the fan switch.)
Modified RSX/civic charge harness (K series charge harness isn't long enough for the civic engine bay to reach the battery. hybrid racing covers how to do this if you google it.)
Kpro or an Immobilizer delete from Ktuned to bypass the anti-theft system
(it wont allow the fuel pump to turn on without one of the above)
RETROFITTING FUEL SYSTEM:
Now for the fuel system, your civic has a return fuel system but the K series engine runs on a return-less system. The easiest options are running a kit from hybrid racing but It can be done way cheaper. This being said the stock fuel pump is perfectly fine for the stock K series engine but A better fuel pump is recommended even if you just tune the stock engine.
Aftermarket fuel rail (some people have utilized the stock fuel rail, however I have not researched what is needed to do so)
Fuel pressure regulator (I used a hybrid racing reg but I have been told AEM has one on JEGS for a little cheaper if you decide to build your own system)
Aftermarket fuel filter (only needed if your planning to delete the stock filter for cosmetics, I used the stock filter and it works fine.)
-6an fuel line
-6an adapters for the line to connect to regulator and fuel rail
-4an adapter and line to connect to the stock return off the bottom of the regulator
A COUPLE THINGS TO CONSIDER:
I chose to run a Karcepts AC/PS delete pulley kit, That being said I little info on how to convert the k series AC or Power steering systems to work with the civic. (I know Ktuned sells AC lines which make AC possible but you will have to customize your AC condenser and put it on the right side of the car)
As for running power steering good luck as I have not researched it.
Also its a good idea to get a clutch and flywheel while the used engine and trans are out of the car. And I recommend stronger brakes as your about to see some power.
I wrote this choppy list in less than an hour so although I have proof read just let me know if I missed anything.
If I mess anything up, feel free to correct me and help everyone learn to do this right!
So here goes a general guideline for anyone interested:
GETTING IT IN THE CAR:
Complete K series engine (20/24/24w20head)
Complete K series trans
Swap mounts (I used Hasports ekk1 kit but I strongly advise using the ekk2 kit. If using the ekk2 kit you will have to cut out the passenger side stock mount bracket and also use a EG subframe and EG rack and pinion.)
The ekk2 mounts will help to get the oil pan higher and the axles aligned better. IF YOU HAVE AN EG THEN YOU WILL NEED EGK1 MOUNTS.
K20 intermediate shaft
Kswap axles (I used Hasports stage 1 axles)
Either an RSX shifter or an Accord shifter that is ment for a k series trans
(however I chose a no cut Ktuned shifter, in 4 months use the bushing is weak and side to side movement is very noticeable. I would rather the RSX shifter)
Karcepts or Ktuned shifter cover (exhaust tunnel needs cut in order to fit stock shifter unless you want to mount it in the car without the interior in place. If you use the no cut shifter this cover is not required.)
COOLING:
You can use a stock radiator if you cut your radiator tabs off and weld them to the left side of the car where the a/c compressor once was. (I chose a mishimoto Kswap radiator, I didn't have to cut or weld anything and it was a double core aluminum rad for 260 bucks.)
Stock top RSX rad hose will fit perfectly so long as you cut about 3 inches off the end that fits to the radiator.
I have herd a stock bottom RSX rad hose works if cut but I used a hybrid racing rad kit and had to cut the bottom one all to hell and couldn't even use the top hose. (this was due to not realizing their hoses are ment for their mount kit only)
Also you will need the stock temp sensor and fan switch from the D series car. (they both bolt right up to the mishimoto rad)
Ktuned inline coolant block for temp sensor and fan switch (if using stock rad)
Push type rad fan (you will have to wire it, I have a diagram on my build thread on how to do this and it can run the stock fan power wire as the switch.)
HELPING IT BREATHE:
Cold air intake (I bought a hybrid racing kswap cold air and cut it in half to tuck it behind the rad, It fit perfectly. I didn't want to cut it but if I used it as it was ment I would have to remove the windshield washer tank)
Kswap header (I used Ktuned's 4-2-1 kswap header, it has a 2.5 inch choke point so if you use 3in exhaust you will need an adapter and a flange welded up)
Custom fitted exhaust system (I would use at least 2.5in tubing)
As for my exhaust system I have a Ktuned universal oval muffler and a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator. It sounds great but it is a loud system. I would recommend a Turbo Thrush muffler from a local auto parts store if quite is what you need but still want a good deep tone.
WIRING:
Swap harness or splice your own wires (good luck with the second option as I went with a Ktuned swap harness and it works great. All I had to do is run a wire to the temp sensor and the fan switch.)
Modified RSX/civic charge harness (K series charge harness isn't long enough for the civic engine bay to reach the battery. hybrid racing covers how to do this if you google it.)
Kpro or an Immobilizer delete from Ktuned to bypass the anti-theft system
(it wont allow the fuel pump to turn on without one of the above)
RETROFITTING FUEL SYSTEM:
Now for the fuel system, your civic has a return fuel system but the K series engine runs on a return-less system. The easiest options are running a kit from hybrid racing but It can be done way cheaper. This being said the stock fuel pump is perfectly fine for the stock K series engine but A better fuel pump is recommended even if you just tune the stock engine.
Aftermarket fuel rail (some people have utilized the stock fuel rail, however I have not researched what is needed to do so)
Fuel pressure regulator (I used a hybrid racing reg but I have been told AEM has one on JEGS for a little cheaper if you decide to build your own system)
Aftermarket fuel filter (only needed if your planning to delete the stock filter for cosmetics, I used the stock filter and it works fine.)
-6an fuel line
-6an adapters for the line to connect to regulator and fuel rail
-4an adapter and line to connect to the stock return off the bottom of the regulator
A COUPLE THINGS TO CONSIDER:
I chose to run a Karcepts AC/PS delete pulley kit, That being said I little info on how to convert the k series AC or Power steering systems to work with the civic. (I know Ktuned sells AC lines which make AC possible but you will have to customize your AC condenser and put it on the right side of the car)
As for running power steering good luck as I have not researched it.
Also its a good idea to get a clutch and flywheel while the used engine and trans are out of the car. And I recommend stronger brakes as your about to see some power.
I wrote this choppy list in less than an hour so although I have proof read just let me know if I missed anything.
Nice write bro, you covered most of my questions
#10
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
Scott,
I noticed you were in Louisiana and just wanted to let you know we are right around the corner in Baton Rouge and can help you out.
To start you can checkout our K-Swap guide here: The Ultimate K-Swap Guide | Hybrid Racing
and our package builder here: K-Swap Packages - Package Deals Hybrid Racing
Once you take a look at those drop an email to Davidr@hybrid-racing.com and we can set you up with a customized package just for your needs.
-Will
I noticed you were in Louisiana and just wanted to let you know we are right around the corner in Baton Rouge and can help you out.
To start you can checkout our K-Swap guide here: The Ultimate K-Swap Guide | Hybrid Racing
and our package builder here: K-Swap Packages - Package Deals Hybrid Racing
Once you take a look at those drop an email to Davidr@hybrid-racing.com and we can set you up with a customized package just for your needs.
-Will
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
Scott,
I noticed you were in Louisiana and just wanted to let you know we are right around the corner in Baton Rouge and can help you out.
To start you can checkout our K-Swap guide here: The Ultimate K-Swap Guide | Hybrid Racing
and our package builder here: K-Swap Packages - Package Deals Hybrid Racing
Once you take a look at those drop an email to Davidr@hybrid-racing.com and we can set you up with a customized package just for your needs.
-Will
I noticed you were in Louisiana and just wanted to let you know we are right around the corner in Baton Rouge and can help you out.
To start you can checkout our K-Swap guide here: The Ultimate K-Swap Guide | Hybrid Racing
and our package builder here: K-Swap Packages - Package Deals Hybrid Racing
Once you take a look at those drop an email to Davidr@hybrid-racing.com and we can set you up with a customized package just for your needs.
-Will
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
Honestly its not. But in my case there package had some parts I didn't need in it, same goes for hybrid racing. However I'm pretty sure K-tuned and Hybrid racing both do custom packages.
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
Thanks Eljefe1070, if I helped a single person with there build that was willing to research and find this thread then its well worth it!
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
That is mostly what I done except I did run across my old retirement pension from my old job so it made it most the way. its a big chunk of change but I would do it all over again.
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
The price of a k-swap is very daunting. My b20vtec needs rebuilding so I've debated rebuilding with better parts, going turbo or selling my car and buying one with a k already. Ive decided long term k is the way to go and I love my car so I'm going to go for it.
#18
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Re: Kswap parts list EG/EK
Im so glad I came across this thread. I recently decided to make the leap and go K. Im still in my research stages and kind of excited to get this thing going in the next few months. This thread has answered a lot of the questions I had along with the HR swap guide.
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