slowpokesi

Okay, There are a bunch of swap guides on h-t but i could not find a specific swap to a 99-00 Civic Si that encompassed all aspects of swapping in a jdm b18c1 (gsr) Motor. Soo having gone through one and experiencing some of the hangups

i figured id add to the wealth of knowledge that is honda-tech.com Most of all of these directions will be the exact same for other 99-00 civics but this guide is written from the assumption that you already own a civic si and are

upgrading to a b18c1.... (note: i have copied alot of this stuff from B18C5-EH2 so that i can use some of the pictures and stuff since i didnt have time to take pics along the way.


<FONT SIZE="3">*Required Parts:</FONT>
*B18c Header (your b16a header or aftermarket header will not fit unless you have a JDM DC sports header or a JDM itr header)
*Driver Side b18c mount , or if for some reason your swap did not come with one you can remove the driver side mount bracket and install it on the b18c motor and use it with your stock driver side mount.
*GSR throttle Cable
*JDM GSR ECU OBD2b (or you can use a chipped ecu)
*USDM B Series Vtec Oil Pump (this is only if your using a usdm ecu i will explain below)
*99-00 Civic Si Rear Mount Bracket
*99-00 Civic Si AC Bracket
*99-00 Civic Si Passenger side mount
*99-00 Civic Si tranny mount bracket
*99-00 Civic Si tranny mount
*99-00 Civic Si Wiring Harness
*2 cotter pins (there like 40cents a peice)
*Vacuum Hose (you will probably need various sizes and diffrent lengths, and you wont know till you get the new motor in so keep in mind that you will need transportation to the auto parts store during this process)
*Fuel Return Hose (your stock hose is going to be too short) (this is the hose that connects your fpr to the car, the fitting is on the driver side toward the rear crossmember)
*18 gauge butt connectors or wire screws
*electrical tape
*wiring loom
*GSR intake (aem or intake tube with a filter, or if you have an aftermarket intake you will have to cut it to make it fit)
*4.5 qts of oil
*Oil Filter
*3 qts of Genuine Honda MTF

<FONT SIZE="3">*Optional Parts</FONT>
* Depending on the belts on the new motor.
* A B18c1 Timing Belt
* A b18c1 Water Pump
* A B18c1 power steering belt, ac belt, and altenator belt (you can reuse your b16a belts for these assuming that they are in good condition)


<FONT SIZE="3">*Must Have Tools:</FONT>
*32mm socket for axle nuts
*Prybar for axles and various deeds
*Punchset for getting that damned shift linkage pin out aka bitch pin
*a 5lb mini sledge (you can pick one up from sears and its an absolute must)
*Dykes (don’t laugh - the wire-cutter)
*Soldering iron for securing wiring
*"pickle fork bar" - use this to separate your ball joints (you can get one from autozone it looks like a big *** pitch fork)
*Can of bearing grease (use this with pickle bar to prevent ball joint boot tearing)
*Full set of 3/8 metric sockets, both shallow and deep,
*3/8 ratchet
*A set of metric wrench's
*Engine Hoist (You can rent this from a local tool shop or rental chain) usually for 25.00 a day.
*Jack Stands
*A big jack ( a little floor jack will not be enough you need something that will at least get the car 2- 3 1/2 feet off the ground.
*Common screwdrivers
*Torque Wrench

<FONT SIZE="3">*Optional Tools:</FONT> (these will make your life easier)
*a full set of 1/2 metric sockets, both shallow and deep,
*1/2 ratchet
*Impact Gun & metric set
*Ratchet style wrenches
*Big *** breakover bar (if your using a big enough jack, you can take the jack handle and slip it over your ratchet) aka the ghetto bar
*Safety goggles (at times your going to be under the car banging on ****, and dirt in your eyes is no fun)


<FONT SIZE="3">*Preparation</FONT>
- Remove Hood
- Loosen front wheel lugnuts
- Jack car high in the air, use the control arm as a jack point and do 1 side at a time, put the jack stands under the side skirt jack location on the frame
- Remove Battery & Battery Tray
- Remove wiring harness cover (its underneath the battery tray)
- Remove Ecu Cover (passenger side floorboard)
- Remove harness plugs from ecu)
- Remove any plastic splash gaurds from under the car *(if you still have them)

<FONT SIZE="3">*Drain All Fluids</FONT>
- Drain Oil
- Drain Tranny Fluid
- Drain Radiator Fluid (use a separate container from oil and tranny or else most places will not let you dump the fluids)

<FONT SIZE="3">*Disconnect everything that would keep the engine from coming out</FONT>
- For detailed pictures and bolt sizes etc... (refer to Pages 95-107 in attached civic helms pdf manual)
- Remove Header from catalytic convertor
- Remove Oxygen sensor (either remove it from the header or disconnect it from the engine harness plug)
- Go ahead and remove the header from the head, and remove any bolts that are used in the header brackets (this is not mandantory but you might have problems removing the linkage if not)
- Shift linkage (there is a 12mm bolt remove that, pull the rubber boot back you will see the bitch pin, use your 5lb hammer and a punch (punch needs to be big enough where it will not slide into the pin, it needs to just barely cover the lip on the bitch pin I believe the size is an 8mm punch but im not 100% positive) it will come out really easy, if your using a regular hammer it will take you all damn day, so i recommend you stopping now and driving up to sears, lowes, or home depot and picking up the 5lb hammer)
- Radiator Hose (both upper and lower) remove this from radiator you can keep it attached to your motor if you want
- Remove Radiator and fan from car (the fan plug is near the passenger headlight
- Remove Fuel line from the fuel filter, you will need a rag and possibly the ghetto bar) remove the fuel return hose from the FPR
- Remove any vacuum hoses that are connected to the intake manifold that route to the car. (disconnect at the manifold not from the car or components)
- Remove any ground wires from the car, there is one on the valve cover and another on the slave bracket on your tranny
- Remove Axle Nut (use 32mm socket, 1/2 inch break over bar plus the ghetto bar note: you will probably need a freind to push very hard on the brakes)
<FONT SIZE="2">- Remove front suspension componets </FONT> (do this on both sides)
- Remove cotterpin from castle nut
- Remove castle nut
- Remove 17mm bolt in the lower part of the supsenion arch/wishbone thing (you will need to use a wrench on one end and a ratchet on the other side,
- Remove 14mm bolt at the top of the suspension arch/wishbone thing (this is what holds your shock in secure)
- Have a freind stand on the brake caliper you should be able to manuver this peice off the suspension assymbly
- Put the bolts you removed back into those peices and set it off to the side
- Take pickle fork bar, dip into can of grease and put it in between control arm and ball joint boot
- Hit pickle bar with 5lb hammer it should come off pretty easily , if your using a regular hammer it will take alot of work and you will possibly damage your ball joint boots.

- Driver Side:
- Use a punch on the axle where its on in the hub, pull on the hub, and give the punch a few taps and the axle should start coming out of the hub.
- Remove axle shaft from hub and let it hang free
- Slide Under the car and use a pry bar on the axle where it goes into the intermediate shaft, take hammer and give it a few hits and it should pop out.
- remove axle and set it out of the way
- Passenger Side
- Use a punch on the axle where its on in the hub, pull on the hub, and give the punch a few taps and the axle should start coming out of the hub.
- Remove axle shaft from hub and let it hang free
- Slide under car, use pry bar where axle goes into the tranny, hammer and pry and it will pop out
- Remove axle and set it out of the way
- Remove ac compressor, from motor and zip tie it out of the way be careful not to damage ac hardlines
- Remove the mount that is connected to the ac bracket from the car (2 17mm bolts)
- Remove ac bracket from motor (4 14mm bolts) (If you dont do this you will have troubles clearing everything when pulling the motor off the car)
- Remove ac belt
- Remove alt belt
- Remove PS belt
- Remove power steering line that connects to the pump
- Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission
- Remove throttle cable and secure it in a manner that it wont get kinked or in the way of anything

<FONT SIZE="3">*Optional</FONT> <FONT COLOR="red">take ecu harness plugs and pop them out of the hole one by one (the hole underneath where the battery is) This might be hard to do, i couldnt do it because my buddies harness was all fucked up from a previous vafc install) If this is not possible let me know and i will edit this thread i assume that it is possible becauase it got into the car that way so it should come out that way.

If you got the harness out that way then good, if not then you will need to start removeing plugs from sensors, If you are going to reuse this harness i highly recommend labeling everything, if you dont know what they are you need to refer to the attached helms manual see page#275 for the sensor names & locations </FONT>

- Take engine hoist, mount chains to motor, on the right side (driver side) of the intake manifold there is spot, use a bolt and washer and mount chain to back of the block. On the driver passenger side, i removed 1 of the tranny bolts, and put my chain and washer there and put the bolt back into the tranny. jack up hoist to remove the slack.
- Remove remaining mount bolts, take mount bolts and keep them with there respective mount somewhere out of the way.
- Once you have removed all of the mounts and bolts the motor should be hanging there freely unless you have forgot something, give the car a once over and verify that nothing is preventing you from pulling the motor out of the car, If not then proceed to jack the engine hoise until the motor will clear the headlights and the upper radiator support.
- Slide hoist back and move it until the motor is out of the way and in a spot that you can work on it.


For detailed pictures and bolt sizes etc... (refer to Pages 95-107 in attached civic helms pdf manual)


<FONT SIZE="3">*Intermission</FONT>

Okay, now that the motor is out of the way, now you should swap over any parts that you need to swap on to your new motor,
- remove the ac bracket and compressor (if its on there) & (if your using your oem ac compressor and bracket)
- remove the power steering pump and bracket (if its on there)
- remove the altenator (if its on there)
- remove the rear tranny mount bracket (mandantory)
- remove spark plugs
- remove the engine harness on the new motor (if its on there)
- If you have the gsr driver side mount then use it, if not then you need to remove the mount holder on both motors and swap the si mount bracket onto the gsr motor.
- If you have a SI then take the intermediate shaft off your motor and put it on the gsr motor, if not then use the shaft it came with.

Replace the above parts with parts from your existing b16 motor, if you dont have a b16a motor then you will probably need to retain the ac bracket, compressor, power steering pump & bracket and altenator. At this point you should have a clear idea of what needs to be replaced, swapped over from your core motor, or what you need to buy etc.. make all these changes now (except for reinstalling the ac, ps, and alt belt do these after the motor is in the car). NOTE: If the harness was removed with the engine, disconnect the plugs and reinstall them on the new motor, you will possibly have to extend some plugs. On the gsr the IAT sensor is on the manifold instead of in the intake tube, and it also uses a diffrent plug for the sensor than the usdm harness, so you will need to either decide if your going to put a whole in your intake and run it like you ran it on the b16 or if you are going to connect the plug to the manifold.

If you choose to connect to the manifold find a plug that will fit it from the jdm harness, cut it and sauder/connect it to where your sensor use to go (be cautious of the length you might need some extra wire) 2. Where the injectors go there is a 5th plug, on the usdm motor you had an evap controller, on the jdm motor there is not one, if your using a jdm ecu then this not a big deal, if your using a usdm ecu i dont really have an awnser for you. The car will run without it being plugged in but you will recieve a check engine light. The vtec solenoid, if you are using a jdm ecu then skip this, if your using a usdm ecu then you will need to use a usdm vtec solenoid that has the vtec oil pressure switch because the jdm vtec switch does not have the sensor you need. The Infamous CKF Sensor *(Crank Fluctuation Sensor)* On your usdm motor this plug is part of the oil pump, your jdm motor does not have one. If you are going to use a jdm computer than move on to the next phase, if you are using a usdm computer than well your in for a fun amount of work. You will have to remove your oil pump from you b16 and swap it over to the gsr motor, or if you dont have a bseries motor your going to have to shell out some money to get a new one). Several people on honda-tech speculate that you can splice those wires somewhere into the distributor, but i searched for 3 hours on honda-tech searching through old threads and skimmed the helms and couldnt find a clear cut awnser on where those splices need to go. If you know where they need to go, either pm me or reply in this post and i will update this part of the swap guide. This is the main reason that you need a jdm ecu or you need a chipped ecu that will not look for the evap sensor or the CKF sensor, or vtec oil pressure switch. notewhen your installing your harness onto the motor, i recommed running the driver side plugs from the passenger side of the motor through the intake manifold braket (under the IM) the wires that you will need to pass through are coolant tempature sensor, power steering sensor, the fuel injector clips, there is a big *** grey plug that plugs in by the brake master cylinder, 2 dummy plugs that are capped off, and a rubber plug (knock sensor) Refer to page 217 in the integra helms for a side diagram to give you an idea

<FONT SIZE="3">*Installation</FONT>

- Hook up hoist chains to motor similar to how you removed the motor
- Jack up motor in the air and hover the motor over the car
- Lower motor into car
- Connect Driver side mount first (Do not torque down till all mounts are in place)
- Connect Rear Mount (Do not torque down till all mounts are in place)
- Connect Tranny Mount Bracket and Mount (Do not torque down till all mounts are in place)
- Connect Passenger side mount and bracket
- Reinstall altenator Belt & and remove any slack by adjusting the tensioner for the altenator (See page # for how the belt should be routed
- Install ac mount bracket to motor, leave the mount side loose, you will have to slide a belt the bar that is used as a mount (see page # for how the belt should be routed)
- Reinstall ac compressor and belt
- Bolt down the mount that is attached to the ac bracket
- Now you should go over all of your mounts tighten them up then torque them down (refer to page 62 in the attached Acura Helms
- Reinstall power steering and belt
- Reinstall Shift Linkage & bitch pin (you shouldnt need the punch, just the 5lb hammer and the pin) then reinstall the bolt for the second linkage
- Install GSR header oR Type R header (it doesnt matter as long as its not a b16 header)
- Connect header to catalytic convertor
- If you were not able to do your harness outside of the car now is the time. See the notes above in intermission session.
- Reinstall slave cylinder to tranny
- Reinstall Radiator
- Connect radiator fan plug
- Start connecting all of your heater hoses, and radiator hoses refer to the civic helms page 260 and page 197 of the gsr helms compare the 2 and hook up all the hoses as necessary
- Install Throttle Cable (we rigged the 00si cable to fit, we had to machine a new bracket) if your not that crafty im guessing that a gsr cable is what you will need) if you have info post it and i will modify this thread,
- The iab i cant tell you how to hook this up right now because we have skipped this until we get the jdm ecu shipped to us. I can tell you that if you dont have a gsr ecu , on the intake manifold near the driver side there is this round gold donut looking object on the manifold there is a nipple on top, leave it disconnected from vaccum and your secondary butterfly will stay open, you will lose some low end power. You can see how the iab is suppose to be hooked up in the acura helms manual on page 214
- Reconnect vaccuum hoses
- Reconnect the fpr to the fuel return line, you will probably have to buy a new line, our factory line was too short. Be very cautious that the clamps are on as tight as possible, if this hose leaks its very close to the altenator and header, all it will take is a spark to set your car on fire.
- IF you havent already go ahead and feed the ecu plugs back down the hole in the firewall

<FONT SIZE="2">- Reinstall front suspension componets (do this on both sides)</FONT>
- Put in passenger side axle into the transmission, take your hammer and tap the hub side of the axle spindle until it seals with the tranny.
- slip hub side of axle into the hub (you might have to tap the outer rim of the hub until its in all the way
- Aim and put the ball joint back into the lower control arm
- reinstall castle nut
- put in new cotter pin, and use a needle nose to bend it in place
- slip the wishbone/arch shock holder peice over the axle
- you might need a freind to stand on the caliper so you can put the peice back in place, then reinstall the bolts

<FONT SIZE="2">- Driver Side</FONT>
- See Passenger side above, and do the same exact thing, but your going to be putting the axle into the intermediate shaft,

- Install intake
- Reconnect Battery
- Fill motor up with coolant
- Remove the vss (its held on by 1 bracket) use this and a long funnel to refill the tranny fluid, it will not take more than 3qts.. it should be about 2.5-2.6 qts of Genuine Honda MTF.. Reinstall VSS the same way you took it out,
connect the vss plug back up.
- Replace oil filter with new filter
- Take Valve cover off
- Remove spark plugs if you have already put them in
- Take a 1 qt of oil and pour some over the cams, and pour a little bit down the spark plugs (not much just a little bit)
- take a 19mm socket and ratchet and turn the motor counter clockwise by hand a few rotations (this will help lube the cams and the pistons (you never know how long your motor has been sitting, it could be bone dry),
- Fill motor with oil
- Turn Crank with ratchet a few more times to help everything lube and for oil to go up the oil jets.
- Reinstall valve cover
- Install New spark plugs
- Reinstall plug wires

Do a once over, i think i have included everything but double check to be sure


Fire it up


<FONT SIZE="3">*PDF Resources</FONT>
The pdf manuals that you will need can be found at hondahookup.com, The page numbers in the guide above are the scanned page number, since there is not a table of contents in the manuals.

You might need to register a user account to get these links.

Integra Manual
http://servage.hondahookup.com...a.pdf (Right Click and Save Target As)

Civic Manual
http://servage.hondahookup.com/manuals/96-00 civic service manual.PDF (Right Click and Save Target As)





Modified by slowpokesi at 8:56 AM 5/31/2006

slowpokesi

I will try to add pictures and such tommorow....

For_Sale

excellent writeup.

Isn't it 4.25 qts of oil, and not 4.5?

Mr. Em1

iTrader: (1)

great post, too bad it wasnt up a few weeks ago when i needed it

Mr. Em1

iTrader: (1)

hey man i was just wondering i have plug on/ near the fuel rail that isn't plugged in and also i have no plug for the sensor on the top left part of the intake manifold. My car doesnt idle, and if it does it is at like 300 rpm, do you know anything that i need to do? please let me know thanks.

Hatch_Back_97

Ok, I have a few questions. First off, does the JDM B18C use dual O2 seonsors? Either way can I reuse my current O2 sensor for the primary? Also, what about the length difference between the header and my current catback exhaust? Any info would be greatly appreciated!

hndacord02

any pics yet bro?

Teknoshaman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hndacord02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any pics yet bro?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, look at the dates...this thread was over a year old.

hndacord02

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teknoshaman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dude, look at the dates...this thread was over a year old.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know seriously! I thought he'd have them posted by now!!! whats going on?!?!

BucCivicSi99

hey so u use a gsr engines Wiring Harness??

kyden

no, you have to use one from an ek.

98ekgsr617

i have a 98 ek with a 96 jdm gsr so wen i bought it it had a dtc o2 sens and idles weird it has a ek harness it wouldnt be easyier to use the full gsr???

Turbocivic94

Does JDM B18C has a girdle?

turbociv910

yes

hyper em1

can anyone explain or show the right way to use a gsr throttle cable in an em1? it looks like theres too much slack in the cable

BucCivicSi99

bump and can you use civic lower radiator hose or you have to use the gsr lower radiator hose

jdmdomo

iTrader: (1)

this is a bad *** info ..

thanks ,

now i know what i need..

jdmdomo

iTrader: (1)

can i turn the car with the si em1 ecu .. ?

im doing a swap ( gsr swap on an em1 '' civic si 00 )

sixwhip14

I got the adjusting wheel at the end of the threaded sleeve toward the bracket. There is still slack but I think I will fab up a collar to take up some of it.
FYI: You should buy belts for the b18c. B16 belts don't fit.
There is a hose that comes out of the purge tank and goes into the top of the throttle body. The em1 and gsr hoses are two different sizes. I had to step it down to get it to fit the gsr. No mention of that here. Feedback?
I cant believe that the fuel return line is 1 inch too short, but it is. It's also a bitch to change out.
Jdmdomo: You can use the p2t ecu but you will get a cel for the Crank Fluctuation Sensor. and the second o2 sensor as well.
Who cares if this thread is old btw? It has useful info and I know several people doing this swap now, including myself. I will post more if I have more to comment on.

Jeff 360

I think this is one of those threads that should be stickied in a post somewhere. A ton of helpful tips and info! Better than most I've seen!

waterfromdust

great post! definitely adding this to my reference pile for my future swap. thanks!

rysmitty

if you have a full gsr swap into a 2000 em1 what kind of eco should I have the ecu from the stock b16 or the b18c ecu

HondaPartsHero

OBD2A ECU P72 with an adapter harness. If you run the 00-01 P72 OBD2B ECU it has an imobilizer.