lak8

Well first off i wanted to thank fastwanabe for his wright up on how he did his engine height mod in the first place, i would of never thought of this with out his help https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1154854

The reson: for doing this in the first place was because my rear engine mount bushing was shot and falling apart, i thought if i was just to change it out and replace it the same thing would of happend down the road. Doing this engine mod you can move and adjust the mounts so there strait therefor putting no strees on the bushings.
Also another reson why i raised it up was because i bought custom rate ground controls and konis for my suspension, the front springs that i had made up are quite short and i could only get the coils raised up to about a finger gap between the finder and tire, thus the car is sitting pretty low cousing the header to scrap pritty bad on big dips in the road.


The mounts: have been moved up exsacly 2 inces all the way around keeping the engine in the same place as before. i had some forseen obstacles that were different then fastwanabe but end the end every thing worked out pretty good.


The good and the bad: Some of the good news is this hood webbing didnt have to be cut at all and all work was done with out removing the engine from the car, just used a jack on the oil pan to raise and lower it. the only bad news i have is the axles seem to be bottoming out in the cv cups. (edit: found out its the bump stops on not the axles after all doh)


I pretty much copied what he had done from fastwanabe how-to so theres not really much to expain on the modification, ill let the pictures speak for them self.

The drivers side frame rail had to be cut and notched/boxed with angle steel so the tranny could be move up. primed, seem-sealed, painted (in these pictures the car is jacked up so the axles are not strait)





The passenger side didn't really have to be notched but just to be safe i did it anyways since its so tight of a space between the crank pully and the frame rail



I bought a integra passenger side auto tranny bracket that had been modded as you can see , the difference from fastwanable is we had to box shape one side of the bracket so the bolt from the transmission could fit in there, not sure why fastwanabe didnt have to do this but it forsure had to be done or else i couldnt get the full 2inces in height, also the bracket had to be moved up 1" instead of 1/2" again dunno why, but i measured may times on about 5 cars from the wrecker and my own other integra for measurements and this was the outcome.







installed, primed and painted





The rear bracket modded (no install pictures but i basicly just bolted in)





cleaned up, primed and painted.





Drivers side bracket (sorry only got installed pictures)






As some of you know you can use the power steering pump and bracket from the stock 92-95 jdm h22 engine on a integra or 96+ civic without a problem (which i was using at the time before this) raising the engine up i had to switch to a 97+ pump and bracket for clearance on the hood, this ps line also had to be cut and brazed to work with the stock integra ps line. cutting of the hood webbing probably would of worked as well but i wanted to keep it stock without cutting it.





Heres some final shots of the engine in and ground clearance.











Axles sitting darn strait






Axles are sitting nice and level but there to long with this setup. When i go over big dips in the road i can hear the axles bottoming out from being to long, this is not good and could couse major damage to the trans. Im running the stock jdm prelude mid shaft that came with the engine along with both prelude inners matted to 88-89 integra outters. from what i know this is the shortest axle combo you can make without going for custom axles. Does anyone know if there are shorter axles out there or something i can do to fix this problem.




Modified by lak8 at 12:05 PM 7/2/2006

fastwanabe

looks good. I do see that the mount for the pass looks like a manual mount. The autos hava slight angle upward and thats why I used it. If you take a manual and auto together you will see that the bolt hole make up the 1 1/2 of spacing. I'm happy it worked out for you.... but you need to figure out your axle issues though. Are you using the prelude halfshaft? if so that whats probably causing your problem.


Modified by fastwanabe at 9:34 PM 7/1/2006

lak8

i did use a auto bracket for the passenger side, why it didnt work like yours was i dont know. but you were using a eg so that is why im guessing. i could also be that i used a integra auto bracket and not the same as a civic bracket altho im almost postive there the same.

For the axles im using the jdm prelude mid shaft that came with the engine matted to the prelude inner cv with 88-89 integra outers. I know in one of your post you were debating this and saying to use the accord mid shaft but i dont really see what that would do inless it is i fact shorter. Also if i did this it would only be good for the drivers side.... the passanger side would still is the same since the mid shaft is only used for the drivers side.

Heres some info from when i just went out side like 5mins ago.

The axles seem to be almost level, maybe sloping down a bit were it connects to the hub, now im almost wondering if it is the axles since there alomst strait to begin with. so when i go over bumps, wouldn't the axles be given more play since there now being moved upward from the almost strait angle they are now. hard to say but ill have to look into this.

Also i had the car with the same axle setup before. once on stock height using stock springs the other time the same way its sitting now in the pics (but with the engine height not modded). both times i had no problem at all.

Another thing is i get no binding at all around turns right now. seems to only bottom out on bumps adn dips in the road.

lak8

Up date on the axles: (axles are fine)

I wanted to check if the axles were acutally to long instead of just assuming they were. So to do this i jacked the car up and removed the whole shock assembly. I then placed a jack under the lower control arm and raised it up to the heightest it can go (basicly bottoming out the tire on the wheel housing) to my amazed the axle was not binding at all. I even turned the wheel lock to lock and it looked and turned fine, no binding at all. I did this to both sides. So basicly what i thought was the axles bottoming out wasn't.

I was kinda surprised because i thought the koni yellows/ground control setup have wouldn't do this. I even had custom springs made up so the spring is preloaded all the time (hince the short spring) and the konis are set to about 3/4 firm

So in the end it isnt the axles at all. It just seems to be hitting the bump stops on the shock. doh

fastwanabe

Hey lake I was looking at your pictures and noticed that the angle at which your auto bracket is compared to mine


mine


yours


notice the angle are different. Mine slopes upward more than your unless you welded the bracket to level off with the frame.

lak8

yes, i did noticed this as well when i was installing the bracket. I think at the time we had to add the 1"ince spacer instead of the 1/2 is so we could lay the bracket on the frame so it was flat. we did this so we could weld all the spot welds on the bracket to the frame. Also i think another reson was because of the bolt being in the way.

I now notice in the picture of your tranny you have bolts going into the tranny that holds on the hcp mount on (im guessing this is a accord trans, or you just took out the studs?) instead of all studs and nuts which i have on my tranny. This is why you probably didn't have to box the bracket.

fastwanabe

my trans was a H22 trans for sure M24something. You were not suppose to match the the weld spots at all. thats what probably threw you off. My guess is that you ended up angling your auto bracket as if it were a manuel. You are right the EG and Teg brackets are identical so the spacing should have been identical to mine. But if you look @ your pic you angled your auto bracket to be horizontal which in turn required more spacer than anticipated. Yes I did take out the 1 rear stud and used bolts, the front stud was also removed. Only 1 stud remained as seen in the pic.

lak8

I didnt match up the orignal spot welds because (heh) i remember i tryed that at first when test fitting and it was way off since the bracket was moved up 2 inces. I think the main reson why its like that was because of the stud and nut, if i was to remove it (didnt even think of that at the time) i probably could of used the 1/2 ince spacer. And again i also remember we did this so all the holes in the bracket could be welded up (spot welds are the strongest) But anyway it worked out great in the end just different angle then yours, thats all. I also think that picture makes it look more down then it really is

lak8

I cant beleave no one replyed about this besides fastwanabe. Is every one to involved with the H to B now. lol

hybridpatient95

im thinking of doing this.. but idk bout that rear bracket part.. lol how much did you pretty much raise the motor like a Inch or 2? this looks like a great mod.. im def considering it

lak8

The engine was moved up 2" exsacly. It really is a great mod.

Oh and before i used to get engine vibration in the cab area. now nothing since theres no stress on the bushings

hybridpatient95

fastwannabe it looks like you put spacers under your auto bracket.. how thick are they?

lak8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridpatient95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fastwannabe it looks like you put spacers under your auto bracket.. how thick are they? </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you read the link i posted on the top of my thread, his how-to has all the information there. To answer you question, He used 1/2" spacer inbetween the frame and the auto bracket.

fastwanabe

How are the mounts holding up? Any problems?

I was looking @ the pictures with the new shoes on.... is that an aluminum pan I see there? did you dent the steel one?

lak8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How are the mounts holding up? Any problems?

I was looking @ the pictures with the new shoes on.... is that an aluminum pan I see there? did you dent the steel one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There holding up very good. No signs of stress on anything. Thanks again for the idea on the mod in the first place (im loving it M:p)

Same pan just painted since i welded on a bung for a oil temp gauge and had high temp silver paint laying around never scraped the pan yet

JDM_COUPE

iTrader: (3)

very good mod. ill have to try this when i get free time