Gsr to B20 swap quirks and FAQ
05-26-2014, 10:56 PM
#1
Gsr to B20 swap quirks and FAQ
About two months ago I blew my gsr motor in my '96 integra, it was the original motor/trans. I believe the oil pump went out, but any how it's no good. Was going to save and swap in an ITR, but lost patience with my dd. So I settled on a B20. My bother had just B20 swapped his RS so we knew what we were doing. This article is to help fellow gsr owners with their swap because we ran into a few snags. I decided to stay obd2 for now so I didn't have to tune for now I just used a P75 LS ECU and it runs fine.
So the differences, I had 6 left over connectors on my engine harness (gsr) and they are
Cfk sensor (bypass article http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm)
Two vtec connectors
Evap sensor (I deleted Evap)
Gsr vacuum box sensor (not all gsrs have I think)
Knock sensor (ls ecu doesn't look for it)
I had to extend the oil temp sensor (I think) which is to the left of the oil filter because some of the sensors moved and the wire didn't reach off the harness.
The only code I throw is for my secondary o2 sensor since I don't have one plugged in (rusted on my cat, installed test pipe).
You will want a different intake elbow, I run a stock elbow with box that is cut out to make a short ram, I used the arm off my LS. The fuel line that goes from the filter to rail is about an inch shorter than a LS since the intake is lower on a gsr, you can stretch the line over the intake but it's ugly and risky, I swapped it with my LS also. A major problem is the gsr throttle cable is longer and will not fit on the LS throttle bracket, you cannot use the gsr bracket either. My temporary solution is another bracke my friend had that works but leaves the cable at a weir angle, I am going to get a LS cable and swap the pulley off the throttle body (used my gsr throttle body). You will need to make a new valve cover breather hose or get a LS bracket because the elbow hole moves and gsr will not work, I cut the barb off and used a vacuum line so it looks like a line going to my intake instead of that weird bracket.
When it comes to the intake manifold I bought a obd1 manifold off eBay, the differences I can see between obd1/2 is the Evap, the obd2 has a mount for the sensor on top with a hole, where as the obd1 just has a small nipple on the back, since I was deleting it I just put a rubber cap over it and done, looks clean. You may run into some issues with the fuel rail, I can't remember what rail I used (b20,LS, gsr) but I believe it was a LS because of the mounts. For so,e reason I have two coolant barbs on the back of the manifold where one goes to the head, and I don't know where the other one went, if someone could tell me? My obd1 LS only had one, and my brothers obd2only had one? All the plumbing is right so? We just capped the barb for now lol. It is right above the oil filter in one of the pictures if that helps.
I also deleted power steering if you notice the third reservoir it's my breather.
My gsr header heat shield doesn't fit anymore because it hits the head, may grind it down.
Now for the distributor, it may have to be a hybrid between your gsr and b20 depending on the year car and motor. My gsr had a 9pin dizzy on my harness, while the newer b20 only had 8pin. The gsr dizzy will not bolt up to the b20 because of the bolt pattern. If I remember I used the b20 case, and the small box the wires plug into, and the main rotor assembly, but the magnets, and the large box that has the spring on top were from the gsr, basically everything that has wires was from the gsr, but because of the case differences the b20 rotor and small box was needed. Just remember to mark the metal rotor that goes into the cam because it could be put on two ways. Be patient you don't want to mess it up, and make sure you have the correct size Phillips the screws are torqued tight and strip easy. I had to slot Drexel two of them because I used the wrong screwdriver.
I know I wrote a lot and I don't have many pictures, but this in addition to regular b20 swap articles should let you sail smoothly. If you have any questions, comments, concerns please message me or post.
Will upload pics tomorrow.
So the differences, I had 6 left over connectors on my engine harness (gsr) and they are
Cfk sensor (bypass article http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm)
Two vtec connectors
Evap sensor (I deleted Evap)
Gsr vacuum box sensor (not all gsrs have I think)
Knock sensor (ls ecu doesn't look for it)
I had to extend the oil temp sensor (I think) which is to the left of the oil filter because some of the sensors moved and the wire didn't reach off the harness.
The only code I throw is for my secondary o2 sensor since I don't have one plugged in (rusted on my cat, installed test pipe).
You will want a different intake elbow, I run a stock elbow with box that is cut out to make a short ram, I used the arm off my LS. The fuel line that goes from the filter to rail is about an inch shorter than a LS since the intake is lower on a gsr, you can stretch the line over the intake but it's ugly and risky, I swapped it with my LS also. A major problem is the gsr throttle cable is longer and will not fit on the LS throttle bracket, you cannot use the gsr bracket either. My temporary solution is another bracke my friend had that works but leaves the cable at a weir angle, I am going to get a LS cable and swap the pulley off the throttle body (used my gsr throttle body). You will need to make a new valve cover breather hose or get a LS bracket because the elbow hole moves and gsr will not work, I cut the barb off and used a vacuum line so it looks like a line going to my intake instead of that weird bracket.
When it comes to the intake manifold I bought a obd1 manifold off eBay, the differences I can see between obd1/2 is the Evap, the obd2 has a mount for the sensor on top with a hole, where as the obd1 just has a small nipple on the back, since I was deleting it I just put a rubber cap over it and done, looks clean. You may run into some issues with the fuel rail, I can't remember what rail I used (b20,LS, gsr) but I believe it was a LS because of the mounts. For so,e reason I have two coolant barbs on the back of the manifold where one goes to the head, and I don't know where the other one went, if someone could tell me? My obd1 LS only had one, and my brothers obd2only had one? All the plumbing is right so? We just capped the barb for now lol. It is right above the oil filter in one of the pictures if that helps.
I also deleted power steering if you notice the third reservoir it's my breather.
My gsr header heat shield doesn't fit anymore because it hits the head, may grind it down.
Now for the distributor, it may have to be a hybrid between your gsr and b20 depending on the year car and motor. My gsr had a 9pin dizzy on my harness, while the newer b20 only had 8pin. The gsr dizzy will not bolt up to the b20 because of the bolt pattern. If I remember I used the b20 case, and the small box the wires plug into, and the main rotor assembly, but the magnets, and the large box that has the spring on top were from the gsr, basically everything that has wires was from the gsr, but because of the case differences the b20 rotor and small box was needed. Just remember to mark the metal rotor that goes into the cam because it could be put on two ways. Be patient you don't want to mess it up, and make sure you have the correct size Phillips the screws are torqued tight and strip easy. I had to slot Drexel two of them because I used the wrong screwdriver.
I know I wrote a lot and I don't have many pictures, but this in addition to regular b20 swap articles should let you sail smoothly. If you have any questions, comments, concerns please message me or post.
Will upload pics tomorrow.
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