Ok so here's the thing, I bought a 92 hatch with h22 swap already done( yes I know that's my first mistake, but I got it very cheap). Here is my problem, it idles quite low about 400-500rpm, it also misses at low, some times throughout, the rpm range, and once I've been driving for a while, rpm's fluctuate at that low idle. I took a look at the ecu n its a p06, but I know its been chipped cuz it does hit vtec and I've revved it up to 8k(jus to c where the limit is at) n of I remember correctly, a stock p06 cuts out at 6800. I've been thinking about jus getting a chipped p28 from phearable.net jus so I know excatly what I have running my motor.
My question is, do u think I should get the p28 jus to b safe, or should I save the money, do a good tune up and figure out what is up with the p06 and get it re-tuned?
Leave it. What people have to understand is that once an ECU is chipped it makes no difference what it started out as. It's like installing Windows on your PC then deciding you want to wipe it out and try Linux.
I have a chipped P28 and a chipped and converted P06. No difference in the way the ECU works. Only the MAP is important.
Ok, so seeing as I have a CAI I don't need to replace the air filter since its fairly clean, and the fuel pump and filter are new, the only thing left tune-up wise is ignition components. I've read up on Nology external ignition systems and sound pretty good for the money( besides the fact the "hot wires" are almost a couple hundred alone which I will probably purchase at a later date and I already have 8.5mm wires now) This setup with some E3 plugs should do the trick. Anybody have any experience or insight on these types of systems?
So, I did the tune-up (plugs, wires, cap, and rotor) and I'm still having the same issues. Possibly the injectors?
Again, it idles real low (300-400rmps) it misses in low rpm, occasionally throughout the rpm range. It RARELY happens when the engine is cold unless I'm in 4th or 5th goin 30-40mph and try to accelerate but never throughout when cold. If i don't put it under load and let it gradually accelerate, then it won't miss. It seems as though the longer I drive it, the worse it gets.....
No I haven't, it wouldn't have anything to do with the timing because it would do it constantly and not act differently whether hot or cold. Also I don't want to just adjust the idle because it would just be covering up the problem temporarily. Regardless I plan on replacing the timing belt in the next couple weeks.
I'm thinking the injectors, either they r going bad or whoever wires up the resistor box did something wrong....any opinions?
at grumblemarc on schooling everyone on the p06 computer, everybody automatically thinks you need a p28.
If you have a stock h22 you can try another chip with a stock tune. I wouldnt use those ebay chips.
Get rid of the cold air intake, could potentially be the cause of the problem. Everybody thinks worse case scenario when you suck in water....hydrolock but sucking up water could cause a bent valve also. My friend recently had a chipped valve causing similar problems as you. Im not saying this is the problem but Im guiding you in the right direction. Do a compression test and a leak down test.
Ok so compression and leak down are good, I got 185 accross the board. I was finally able to get the car on a lift and found that there is no O2 sensor which I believe is the whole problem. I found what I think is the connector, its a 4 pin with or/blk, grn/wht, ylw/blk, and solid white. The harness looks to be from a ex since its prewired for vtec and there is no 7 wire plug for the o2 (the shell is a vx).
So I'm gunna have to put a o2 bung in, where do I put it? And what o2 sensor should I get? (meaning for what car?)
Really? 185 is low? I ask because ALLDATA says Usdm h22a1 should be from 135-185psi. This is why I assumed they were good numbers, not to mention the fact they all read 185 excatly. I would think it would be a heck of a coincidence that all 4 cylinders have the same amount of leakage. Just for arguement sake, let say I have a bent/chipped/warped etc. valve, that would be a mechanical failure which would show the symptoms constantly, which its not. It only acts this way when warmed up, when a car is at operating temp. It goes into closed loop which is when the sensors etc come into play. this is why I am almost positive its is a sensor/ ecu problem.
With that said, I have some new discoveries to share. I went to the junkyard yesterday and surprisingly found a complete, stock, VX hatch. What I noticed was the MAP sensor shares the same part number as the one in mine, are the MAP sensors more or less universal or could that be a potential problem?
Also, I opened up the ECU jus to find out anything about the chip....its a SST 27SF512. I did a little research on it and found that it is a reprogramable chip. What would I need to just put a stock h22 basemap on it?
did you replace the stock coil when you done the tune up? i had an issue like this. it would miss under heavy load and run fine on light loads. as the engine heats up so does the coil. if its goind bad it will show more when hot. kinda like a starter going bad.
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