yun_cheezie

well, i finally got around to doing my swap this weekend (june 7). i need some help, as detailed as you can, with certain components/senors wiring. i have three major to me, but probably minor to you questions to ask. i guess i'll get the easiest one out of the way...

first of all, i have a 2000 accord coupe lx 4cyl (f23) 5sp swapping in a 93 JDM h22a w/ JDM p13 ecu obd1.

(1) where is the temp gauge sending unit on the f23 block (not the 2 pin ECT sensor, but the single pin sensor that's suppose to be next to it). on the f23 block there is a factory installed brass looking plug where the temp gauge sending unit/sensor is supposed to be? i've even looked in the helms serv manu for its location and it doesn't specify. i'm using my stock accord harness, and there isn't a plug on it in order to connect it to h22a temp sending unit sensor. do i have to straight wire it to the ecu or am i overlooking something? i'm even wondering if the f23 ECT sensor has a temp sending unit function built in to it?????

(2) the f23 has an eacv (elec air ctrl valve) while the h22 has an iacv (idle air ctrl valve). the f23 eacv has a 3 pin plug (wire colors: 1-blk/blu 2-yel/blk 3-blk) and the h22 iacv has a 2 pin plug (wire colors: 1-blk/blu 2-yel/blk). do i need to lose the 3-blk wire located in the 3-pin eacv connector on my f23 harness, and just match the other 2 wires according to their color code (i know it's simple, but just wana make sure. a stupid mistake could risk frying my ecu if you know what i mean hehe!)

(3) last, and probably the hardest to me off all....EGR system! the f23 motor has a 5-pin connector (1-yek/blk 2-wht/blk 3-grn/blk 4-blk 5-pink) "full electronically controled" egr valve..."no vacuum/line operation" of any sort. the h22 has a 3-pin egr conncetor (1-red/wht 2-wht/blk 3-grn/wht) "vacuum operate" egr valve, a 2-wire (1-blk/yel 2-red) egr ctrl solenoid valve and a egr vacuum ctrl valve. i know how to hook up and run all of the vacuum lines but how do i wire in the h22 egr valve and ctrl solenoid using my f23 harness? if you notice, both egr systems consist of 5 wires totalled. but when comparing them to the helms etm, their functions seem to differ. please help, i dont wanna leave it disconneted because is will eventually cause prededination and possible put a hole in my piston(s). not cool at all, hehe!

you can also email me at: young_chance@hotmail.com

ps. to those on lookers, your help is appreciated as well. I'VE ALREADY SEARCH "ALL" OTHER FORUMS, THESE QUESTIONS ARE SPECIFIC AND ARE NOT LOCATED WITH IN THEM.

yun cheezie fo sheezie

"after this swap, i plan to have full documentation with pix for to put an end of the "gaps of info" for all of us 6gen h22a accords!"

poison

I'll try and help you out as much as I can for the H22 swap.

(1) The Temp gauge sending unit is located underneath the distributor. It's kinda hard to miss if you don't know where it is, but you should have no problems finding it. The F23 harness should reach the Sending Unit just fine.

(2) Unfortunately, I don't have my book with me right now with the ECU pinouts, but basically you will want to cut off the EACV plug on the F23 and plug up the IACV. There is a power wire which is Yel/Blk that goes to A25 or B1. The other pinout I can't remember off hand and my books are not with me currently. But basically, get the pinout of the IACV, with the color wire, and wire it to the other wire at the IACV and you'll have a working sensor with signal to the ECU (which is what you need). If you do not get this pinout to the IACV by tonight, I'll be sure to grab the pinout for you.

(3) EGR is one pain in the ***. I will tell ya that. I have yet to hook mine up because it's a pain in the *** and I just don't care lol. Just letting you know it won't screw up your motor with it disconnected! But if you wish to hook it up, that's totally cool as well.

Like I said, basically you just want to wire it up from the proper pinouts, matching to the correct pin on the sensor plug and get the sensor working just fine.

Here is the wiring information for the EGR set up for OBD1:

EGR Lift Valve solenoid - ECU signal at A11 and Sensor voltage (Yel/Blk wire) to A25.

EGR Lift sensor - Sensor voltage (A25 pinout Yel/Blk wire), ground (D22 pinout) & ECU sensor signal to D12

HTH man. Good luck

yun_cheezie

i checked again today there is absolutely no 1-pin temp gauge sending unit senor next to the ect (located under the distrib on my cyl head). what is your email, i'll send you a pix of what it looks like. will i have to straight wire the sensor to my ecu?

also, today i figured out the iacv. just lose one of the ground wires off of the 3-pin conn on my f23 harness.

how does your car run with out the egr (good?)? if so, might worry about it later and focus on more important areas such as the injector resistor box which i has almost completed.

ps. what year is your car, and what year is your h22 engine (jdm or usdm)?

thanks soo much, you are one of the few who have actually given me good advice. where as others have posted negative remarks unrelated to the topic. (not in this forum, but in others)

poison

Hmm, there should be. I've seen it on many many Honda engines for the swaps, and it's always there.

As for the IACV, glad ya figured it out

My car runs just fine w/o EGR hooked up. I rarely throw the code, but the only times it comes on is when I am going up a hill for a certain amount of time for some reason. But the motor runs perfectly w/o the EGR hooked up.

I also have a plate blocking the valve so there is no worries bout that.

I have a 92 VX hatch, with a 92 JDM H22.

Not a problem man. Keep us posted and I'll be glad to help ya out.



PS ->

The IACV Pinouts are as follows:

It's a Blue/Yel wire which leads to A9.
And the other wire is the Power wire to A25.

HTH.

apexi

I got mine 95 H22A / 92 EG done and the wiring was a pain in the ***. You'd be suprise what the H22A will run with out. I had it started without MAP, TPS, EGR, O2, and KS. I drove it to the muffler shop with out O2, MAP, KS and EGR. It was full of codes. Finally, got rid of ALL of them. Including the EGR. EGR and KS was the last two I did. I had problem with the colors of the wires. They were different on my car for some reason and did not match up. What I ended up doing was buying a VOM and figured how each sensor worked and by trial and errors. The KS was broken in two pieced and I finally soldier and epoxy it back to gether. The EGR was wired up to pass State inspection. No EGR system you will get a high NOx reading and failed. I passed when I got my EGR hoocked up. I was cheap about doing the EGR b/c I didn' t want to give HONDA Heaven (blood suckers here locally) $50 bucks for a EGR control selenoid and a plastic control tank. Basically, it's a plastic bottle with a on off valve. I took an extra purge selenoid valve that I had and hoocked it in reverse (vacuum wise -- b/c electrically it's a freaking switch on or off and the ECU usually supply ground) The EGR control selenoid only comes on when the throttle opens (not at Idle). I do have a point. EGR is important if you want to drive your car leagally, I had mine plugged up and NOx went sky high. Anyhow, if you need pin outs and not wire colors. Let me know. I'll go look on my car.

Bense

98-99 F23 Accords have their own 1-wire temperature sensor that feeds the signal to the gauge cluster.

00-02 F23 Accords do not have the sensor, the temperature gauge receives it's signal from the ECU.