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Any new updates on crank pulley options in EF chassis?
I've tried the OEM and they still rub on the chassis rail.
OEM
F20B
S2000
K24
Aftermarket
Evolution
I deleted my balance shaft, shaved the back of the single pulley (found on EuroR and H23A BT), banged my frame, and put the crank spacer on the outside of my pulley. I'm thinking that the plateless Brough Performance kit might help out. I may be switching to an ATI soon though so that should be interesting.
With the 88-91 chassis is it possible to lower the engine enough to remove the crank pulley? I was thinking of doing a two floor jack system. Need to remove the pulley for anothe 1/8-1/4" clearance which should be perfect for frame rail clearance and alternator alignment.
With the 88-91 chassis is it possible to lower the engine enough to remove the crank pulley? I was thinking of doing a two floor jack system. Need to remove the pulley for anothe 1/8-1/4" clearance which should be perfect for frame rail clearance and alternator alignment.
It's possible to drop the engine low enough to remove the crank pulley. I'm using a k24 pulley and I have less than 1 inch of clearance. I did bang out the frame rail, but it's still has me worried.
With the 88-91 chassis is it possible to lower the engine enough to remove the crank pulley? I was thinking of doing a two floor jack system. Need to remove the pulley for anothe 1/8-1/4" clearance which should be perfect for frame rail clearance and alternator alignment.
Originally Posted by Just2Fast
It's possible to drop the engine low enough to remove the crank pulley. I'm using a k24 pulley and I have less than 1 inch of clearance. I did bang out the frame rail, but it's still has me worried.
I have removed the harmonic balancer by lowering the engine many times in the CRX. And please forgive my ignorance here but, are you saying that K series harmonic balancers directly fit onto the H series? Sounds familiar, but I would like some info on that briefly please.
Originally Posted by Bently_Coop
I'm going to have to shave the inside another 1/8" as well, looks like one flat part is touching, not the lip though.
Yea, I saw Charlie selling that custom arm. I went with the ESP traction bar and have had zero interference issues thus far. However, the car has been down for a while and I am working on another power plant.
Well the engine is halfway apart in the car with the pulley off, but I think it was about 1.5-2 inches. I had to lower the engine in order to remove the pulley, but if it were slightly smaller diameter then perhaps I could get away with not lowering the engine. I wish I had a pic, but the car is down because dat P2V.....
Last edited by 1991_crxsi; 02-06-2016 at 04:35 PM.
I'm looking at possibly a 1/8"-1/4" after I have some off the back side trimmer. After a majority of people mentioning doing a timing belt swap and having to pull the engine I think it is very doable in the car.
Edit:
Since I am going through all of this I will also be ordering a second timing belt guide. Part # 13622-PT2-010 for between the belt and pulley.
Last edited by Bently_Coop; 02-06-2016 at 05:03 PM.
I need some driving impressions everybody! I have a 93 hatch w/ b16a and a y21 tranny at the moment. I need more power though and am not wanting to boost. I have been researching the h2b for awhile but I dont get the problems with the alternator. I understand the webbing on the back of the block however.
I want some driving impressions. Anybody using this in a dd car? Hows the power? Ive never driven a h22 before, and I think im going to love the torque and power.
At H 22 a is good it'll get you about 200 to the wheels and 170 ish foot pounds of torque but the h23a is where its at you got 230 horse 198 foot pounds of torque @ 3200rpm
Hello all. I am rebuilding my H2B and need help selecting the appropriate cam for it. I have read a bunch, but I don't think I have located enough information out there to feel confident in making the best choice as yet.
I am asking for people's input based on actual experience. As of now, I feel that the best choice will be between Skunk2 Pro1s and Pro2s, but I am open to your input on any cam. The care will be a sunny-day driver, and 1/4 mile toy ran on 93 pump gas. Thanks in advance!
Here is the rough build specs:
Alaniz Competition port head and Supertech valvetrain.
Custom large plenum intake
89 mm bore
95 mm stroke
12.5 compression
Highend header with electronic exhaust cut-out.
Whats everyone runing for Tires??
Im trying out these 245/55/15s i usually use the 235/60 bias ply m&h radials
but latley i wanted something thats more corner friendly. these tires are amazing im hooking 550whp in 2nd.... very impressed.
Coop, I did not see the H2B DA. Not sure how I missed that. Was it racing? I wasn't in the staging lanes much at all. On another note...motor is in! Only for some mock up though. With all the parts I bought to not bang frame rail, and at least a dozen ppl telling me I wouldn't have to bang frame, guess what? I had to bang frame. Oh well. I've learned many new things on this journey so far, and it's still in progress!
01-18-2016, 08:15 PM
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
