Dorkenheimer

Thanks Bently. When ordering the kit, I asked the folks at Kaizenspeed if I had to remove the crank. They said yes. I was kinda confused after all the research I'd been doing on the BS eliminator kit, NOBODY mentioned removing the crank. That's not exactly one of those steps that gets looked over in the process of that lol.

Long story short, you don't have to remove your crank to install the oil plug when installing the balance shaft eliminator kit. Even better news, I took pics of the process and am going to make a decent write up (with red arrows and everything haha) to help the next person who is in my spot.

Oh, with my motor on a stand, I got it stripped down to the point where it's ready to install the oil plug. It only took me a matter of tinkering for a couple hours, with no hurry, and just kind of guessing as I went. I assume anyone else who does this also knows how to turn a wrench for the most part.

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

Watch this video.


Everything is accessible with the crank installed. However, there will likely be some small metal shavings that will remain behind no matter how diligently you attempt to remove them all. Usually they cause no problems so long as you try to remove as much of the shavings as you can. KS recommends completely disassembling the block and cleaning it out to prevent any contamination from shavings, but you don't have to. Of course there is some risk if you leave it together, but most people don't run into any problems.

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Anyone looking for quality parts for their build?

https://honda-tech.com/sale-10/h2b-b...parts-3224194/

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

IMO, youd be retarded not to get the block tanked after the hole for the plug has been tapped. Wait til it gets tanked, THEN use loctite and thread in the plug. Youre spending a couple bucks to ensure some metal shavings dont wipe out your freshly built engine. One grain of sand can destroy bearings.

MOCrxHf

I'm partial to the H23A myself. I've had the F20B, H22A4 and now the H23A in my hatch and I'm a big fan of the H23 despite it's lower redline.

I also like my Skunk 2 manifold though I admit I've yet to have my new build dyno'd. I got it as a simple bolt on way to get rid of the butterflies - I probably would've went Euro-R but my budget was tight

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Im selling my completely built up Euro R manifold right now. (and my entire h23v build)

jsinher3

looking for QSD H2B oil pan... please pm me

Bently_Coop

GNX- What setup are you going with? Sucks to see you put all that together and not finish it.

Dorkenheimer

1991_crxsi, of course I've seen that!

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

H23 a blue top VTEC bored. 25mm over, oem Type S overbore pistons and rings, KS bs delete kit, aluminum a4 pan, polished crank, ACL race main bearings, Clevite rod bearings, oem headgasket, ARP head studs manual timing conversion, 93lb super tech valve springs and titanium retainers, crower stainless valves std. size, Skunk2 Pro1 cams and cam gears, Euro R intake machined to work with US injectors, iacv adapter, Egr delete, fuel rail adapter, etc. 880cc Precision injectors, AEM fpr, fuel pressure gauge all mounted on an oem polished fuel rail, thermal intake and tb gasket, 70mm tb ported to match, Blox stainless intake studs. Had the head plugged where the exhaust would circulate into the intake to keep it clean. All new seals in the block, head. Hasport mounts, skunk2 dual bend shifter in GSR linkage, ek QSD h2b kit, h2b header, lightweight flywheel, GSR transmission, ITR lsd transmission for rebuild or parts, axles, etc. Hondata s300 installed in P28. Only thing that needs done for it to be assembled is have the block bored, honed, and have the pistons fly cut. There's more but I'm tired of listing haha, I even made a tuck harness from scratch. $200 worth of work needed to have an $8k setup. Ideas change, priorities change, parts need sold.

Dorkenheimer

Anyone know if you have to pull the balance shaft bearings after taking the shafts out? Or are they okay to stay in?

Bently_Coop

Leave them in. Do you have the instructions?

KStuned use to include a paper instructions. See PDF below.

http://xenocron.com/downloads/KSTune...structions.pdf

Bently_Coop

Ordered two different spacers from McMaster to replace the KStuned version that does not work with the Euro R pulley. The .25" spacer worked best for my H22A1. Spacer 2 is recommended in the H2B FAQ. Getting pretty close to install. Need to order a alternator and knock sensor next.

Spacer1
Spacer2

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Why does it not work with the R/H23V pulley?

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Why doesnt it work with the R/H23V pulley?

Bently_Coop

The outer diameter was too large. It needs to be around 40mm O.D. and 30 I.D. Thickness should be just over 5mm. The .25" spacer is just a hair thicker than needed and seemed to fit perfectly.

The spacer is to move the pulley in on the crank snout, by using it would require a longer bolt or machining the outer diameter.

Dorkenheimer

Indeed, he is right. Just got my KS kit earlier this week....

Really Kaizenspeed? C'mon. This is on an H23V pulley.

Dorkenheimer

I take that back. On a brief mockup, I could see how this works. But the spacer barely had any bracing behind it. .......?

Bently_Coop

If you want to use the Kaizenspeed spacer have it machined down to 40mm O.D. so it fits in the recess of the pulley.

Dorkenheimer

Alt belt will still line up when moved Half inch in?

Never mind. Looking closer at the photo, the only thing that changes is the crank bolt has more thread to grab. Gotcha.

crazes

him I have never used the washer from my memory at all when I removed the balance shafts and kept my stock h22 pulley. Maybe this is a dumb question but whats the purpose of using the spacer? what side does it matter of the pulley?

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

No, it does move it toward the block, its purpose is to get rid of the bs pulley.

" "

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Or you could put it behind the crank pulley, in place of the bs pulley. This obviously isnt optimal for clearance but would probably work.

Dorkenheimer

If you were to put it behind the pulley, it would be just like running the balance shaft pulley. alternator would have to stay in the OEM location....something I'm not trying to do. I need mine moved half inch in so I don't have to bang frame.

Went to a machine shop of a local former stock car racer (plaques and trophies and photos all over the front office from his racing days) and they said they couldn't machine my spacer down cause it was too small to fit in the chuck of their lathe. I was kinda taken back that they didn't have the means to simply shave off a bit lol. Any suggestions on where to take it to get machined?

Bently_Coop

I originally placed it behind the pulley on my h22a with Euro R pulley. It actually moved the pulley past the end of the crankshaft(See pictures below). I think the thickness of USDM h22 pulleys is thinner after the extra rib deleting the PS/AC is machined down. The whole intent of removing the balance shafts and spacer for H2B is clearance. In my case an EF. I also have the ESP 1/2" over D series alternator kit. With the spacer on the inside I have about a paper thin slot between the frame rail after hammering it. This should give me atleast another 1/4".

Dorkenheimer: As far as where to get it machined check out DG machine or I can hook you up with the other McMaster spacer I have since I bought two different ones. I used the spacer 1 at 1/4" thick but have the 3/8 left over. PM me if interested. I am in Kent. What shop did you use?

Before:



Now: