the jdmchop

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with an h2b in an EK, does the crank pulley still need to be moved in? or will shaving it down be enough? or does it even need to be shaved?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had it shaved to a single pulley and left it in as is, i took a hammer to the frame just a lil bit to make extra room, i had driven it without hammering the fram and it would rub, now with the hammer love not a problem!

amy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the jdmchop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i had it shaved to a single pulley and left it in as is, i took a hammer to the frame just a lil bit to make extra room, i had driven it without hammering the fram and it would rub, now with the hammer love not a problem!</TD></TR></TABLE>

same here

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

I banged in my frame rail, but I wish I had banged it in awholllllllllllllllle lot more, haha.

Jay-DM

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I banged in my frame rail, but I wish I had banged it in awholllllllllllllllle lot more, haha.</TD></TR></TABLE> HAHA THE SAME HERE I THOUGHT IT WAS ENOUGH WHEN I BANGED DIDN'T PAY ANY MIND TO IT AND DON'T I WISH FORIT TO HAVE MORE SPACE

hondaZvic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Shaved and moved it. I still had to hammer the frame a bit.

This is in a EM1.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sigh...

JDogg

i had to slightly hammer the frame for the alternator to clear (h22 alt in stock location with a D series alt pully), for my crank pulley.. its a shaved pully and i took the grinder to the pully as the engine was running to grind it down just a hair. it used to rub a little when i turned right really hard, now i never hear it at all.

when the motor comes out for the new one ill be cutting/welding a notch in the frame so i can put A/C in the car, i will probably cut/notch it over the crank pully so i dont have to drop the motor down to change the belt.

sauceja

I know this isn't the perfect place for this but I need:

2 old junked H22 waterpumps for the gears only.
2 H22 water pipes

I would like to get these for shipping only but willing to pay a little more for the water pipes.

I may be able to get another H22 head for free needs little work and have access to another F23 block for basically free.

Crx = Allmotor
EG hatch = Boosted

G2B in both.

Anyone shave cranks for a decent price let me know and I will be willing to send in 2 at the same time to have them done.
PM me.

hondaZvic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had to slightly hammer the frame for the alternator to clear (h22 alt in stock location with a D series alt pully), for my crank pulley.. its a shaved pully and i took the grinder to the pully as the engine was running to grind it down just a hair. it used to rub a little when i turned right really hard, now i never hear it at all.

when the motor comes out for the new one ill be cutting/welding a notch in the frame so i can put A/C in the car, i will probably cut/notch it over the crank pully so i dont have to drop the motor down to change the belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats why i was wondering was for ac.

Dr. Willy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know this isn't the perfect place for this but I need:

2 old junked H22 waterpumps for the gears only.
2 H22 water pipes

I would like to get these for shipping only but willing to pay a little more for the water pipes.

I may be able to get another H22 head for free needs little work and have access to another F23 block for basically free.

Crx = Allmotor
EG hatch = Boosted

G2B in both.

Anyone shave cranks for a decent price let me know and I will be willing to send in 2 at the same time to have them done.
PM me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i will be changing my water pump this week actually, putting a new one on my h. pm me man

turtleman321

Don't know if I posted my car in here or not so her she is. It's been a long project taking place two weeks before the end of my junior year in high school and its still going. still trying to figure out my wiring issues.






Don't care about the license picture the car has a new plate.

Dr. Willy

dope man, cant wait to get mine in my ek. why did you space your hood though? on the qsd webpage it says this

"EK guys are the lucky ones. The hood will close completely without spacers."

Did you find this to be diff?

also what kind of a throttle cable did you use?


Modified by Dr. ***** at 7:27 PM 9/17/2007

hondaZvic

nice... this is making wanna do 2 h2bs....

high_revs

dope

NHswaps13203

always use a h22 throttle cable, and what is wrong with the ek wiring? need a harness made? or any of you i already have a 91 dx h22 harness ready to ship. pm me.

sauceja

Just pulled the poormans R I built from the eg. *sniff* *sniff*

Dr. ***** - yeah I want your water pump pm'd you back about it.

I really need some confirmation on piston options for an F23 block with 86mm sleeves.
I know the RSX Type S will work and the DC5 Type R's will work, but my question is that drop in or will they stick out too far and need to be machined.

Also I need a machine shop that doesn't cus honda's because my H22 head needs valve guides and don't suppose freshening her up wouldn't hurt.
And if I wanted to rev the F23 a little more would tighter or looser bearing clearances be better? I am only talking 7500 to 7800 to utilize a free flowing H22 head.

Please don't tell me to search because believe me, it seems thats about all I have been doing lately. Just not enough concrete evidence to make a purchase.

JDogg

loose or tight isnt the issue, the issue is making sure they are all the same. if it were mine id shoot for anywhere between 0.0015-0.0022. but make sure they are all the same.

the pistons are drop in

as for ek hood clearance... i have a euro r intake manifold, mine fits with no problems at all. when i had the skunk2 manifold the map sensor hit the hood. i never tried driving with the stock intake manifold so idk if it hits or not. i have a fiberimages cf hood that does not have any frame underneither so that might have something to do with it.

Dr. Willy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">loose or tight isnt the issue, the issue is making sure they are all the same. if it were mine id shoot for anywhere between 0.0015-0.0022. but make sure they are all the same.

the pistons are drop in

as for ek hood clearance... i have a euro r intake manifold, mine fits with no problems at all. when i had the skunk2 manifold the map sensor hit the hood. i never tried driving with the stock intake manifold so idk if it hits or not. i have a fiberimages cf hood that does not have any frame underneither so that might have something to do with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know im using a firewall mounted map, and am going to cut so of the framing out so i hope i will be good.

turtleman321

my wiring problems have nothing to do with the swap.

as for the hood clearance i have innovative mounts unless they mad changes there is no way my hood is closing with my motor setup.

JDogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turtleman321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my wiring problems have nothing to do with the swap.

as for the hood clearance i have innovative mounts unless they mad changes there is no way my hood is closing with my motor setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

take the IAB plate out of your intake manifold and it should close no problem. removing the iab plate is good for a few hp too.

turtleman321

are you serious? From what I've read I will loose low end torque.

does anyone else agree with jdogg?

JDogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turtleman321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you serious? From what I've read I will loose low end torque.

does anyone else agree with jdogg?</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont believe everything you read... i have a dyno, i have tested it tons, there are even threads and dyno charts i have posted

simply disabling the iab's looses power down low, removing the whole plate changes the characteristics of the manifold and it does not loose power anywhere, even picks up a little up top

turtleman321

ok but what about the bolts? will i need washers or shorter studs?

JDogg

i used some shorter bolts from my bolt box and used sockets as spacers instead of worrying with shorter studs

turtleman321

it closes great thanks! jdogg

UltimX

iTrader: (1)

i believe the same thing, its only good for high rpm range. so anything before the iab's rpm range where it opens up, you will loose low end torque.