**Official H2B Discussion thread **
Honda-Tech Member
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
1991_crxsi, that is something I'd be very interested in. What's your price? DM me if you're not comfortable announcing it.
And where is what?!
And where is what?!
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
PM sent
Last edited by 1991_crxsi; 08-26-2015 at 05:14 AM.
Steve at Heart
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
<p>I can see it. </p><p> </p><p><img src="http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-tech.com-vbulletin/720x720/80-11885385_899699830102422_6265170695004332918_n_1fc 328c771732d00cab8044935c27b2f98f77f92.jpg" title="" /><br /><br /> </p>
Honda-Tech Member
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
Weird, I couldn't see it at all. Not even a failed link.
Stock block sure, but not stock LONG block with those numbers! That has to have cams.
Stock block sure, but not stock LONG block with those numbers! That has to have cams.
Steve at Heart
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
Bolt ons, balance shaft delete and tuning isn't unheard of to waking these Engines up. Pretty much the standard recipe for succes.
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
Correct Bently.
Dorkenheimer- Mine made about the same with a stock long block, and pump gas, just balance shaft deleted and EuroR intake (218+). I made 216 WHP with a stock long block, bolt-ons, balance shaft delete, custom intake manifold and a PIG RICH TUNE. If it was tuned correctly, I expect it would have made this or better.
Dorkenheimer- Mine made about the same with a stock long block, and pump gas, just balance shaft deleted and EuroR intake (218+). I made 216 WHP with a stock long block, bolt-ons, balance shaft delete, custom intake manifold and a PIG RICH TUNE. If it was tuned correctly, I expect it would have made this or better.
Honda-Tech Member
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
@Bently, better get on it! Get that thing running and tuned before next season! Think it would be easier (and cheaper) to get dyno time in the winter months as compared to the spring/summer months?
@1991, I'm not sure where I'll take mine to get tuned yet. But aleady I'm leaning toward English Racing, since it's so damn close and they make some serious cars. OR, if the stars align just right, I wouldn't be opposed to taking a road trip out to KS to get tuned there. I don't know what type of dyno English has...I should look into that. If it's not a dynojet, I know my numbers will probably read out a little lower. I've seen how those dynojet's put out higher figures. I can't think of the other common dyno right now...the name is escaping me. dynocom? dynapak? idk.
@1991, I'm not sure where I'll take mine to get tuned yet. But aleady I'm leaning toward English Racing, since it's so damn close and they make some serious cars. OR, if the stars align just right, I wouldn't be opposed to taking a road trip out to KS to get tuned there. I don't know what type of dyno English has...I should look into that. If it's not a dynojet, I know my numbers will probably read out a little lower. I've seen how those dynojet's put out higher figures. I can't think of the other common dyno right now...the name is escaping me. dynocom? dynapak? idk.
Honda-Tech Member
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
Ah, Dyno Dynamics. KS has this version of dyno. These are the ones that read typically lower. The dyno tuning section on their page is incredibly cocky...apparently they really stand behind their work. Not a bad thing.
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
I wouldn't get too caught up in dyno numbers really. Dynos are a tool for tuning first and foremost. Get a baseline curve and record it. Then when the tune is finished you can see what the tune did for you. On any dyno that reads anywhere close to accurate you should be very close to or well above your goal. Here are a bunch of H23a BT graphs on various dynos and various configurations. https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...hread-3167079/ Overall it shows that the stock cams on the H23A BT perform pretty well and in some applications with all things considered might even be a preferred choice.
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
Question here guys. I am thinking of building an H23A and installing these sleeves: Darton DRY Sleeve Kit Honda H22A H22A1 H22A4 H23 Part #: 300-018. The car will be a naturally aspirated (around 12ish comp) daily driver so I was wondering how big of a bore I could go to without sacrificing reliability. I know Darton says 89, and Randy Owens ran his racing at 90mm with no problems. I need to know if anyone has daily driven these at 90mm, or if you guys think I should just stick with 89mm? thanks in advance.
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Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
if you are daily driving it you dont really need sleeves but if you got the money to blow then thats your choice
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
I'm considering building an engine with a larger bore, so I will need to sleeve the block... unless there is something that you know that I do not. As far as I know there is no way around that unless: 1) I avoid forged pistons and keep the stock bore (which I am also considering) and replacing them with an OEM piston, preferably the Type S pitons or; 2) find someone to bore the FRM sleeves to accept the .25 oversized cast OEM/Type S replica pistons or; 3) use Mahle Gold forged pistons with the stock FRM liners (I'm not interested in that route so lets not discuss that option further). There is no one in my area that works on FRM liners and thus option 2 is not a good option for me. So I am left with either keeping the stock bore and sleeves and running a Type S piston (or some other OEM piston) or resleeving and running whatever bore/compression piston I choose. I am leaning towards resleeving. Do you know of another way to avoid sleeving to run a larger bore forged piston? I am open to options.
Last edited by 1991_crxsi; 09-02-2015 at 09:49 AM.
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Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
Haha... Well, to be fair, owning a "go-fast project car" is generally a great way to blow money. I have a DD car and this H2B car is more of a toy that I take to the track occasionally and could be DD if need be. I drive it when the weather is nice and I feel like driving the car. In short, my H2B CRX is an impractical waste of money. That being said, I am not interested in spending money that does not get me the results I am looking for. If you have something helpful to contribute please do so.
I'm considering building an engine with a larger bore, so I will need to sleeve the block... unless there is something that you know that I do not. As far as I know there is no way around that unless: 1) I avoid forged pistons and keep the stock bore (which I am also considering) and replacing them with an OEM piston, preferably the Type S pitons or; 2) find someone to bore the FRM sleeves to accept the .25 oversized cast OEM/Type S replica pistons or; 3) use Mahle Gold forged pistons with the stock FRM liners (I'm not interested in that route so lets not discuss that option further). There is no one in my area that works on FRM liners and thus option 2 is not a good option for me. So I am left with either keeping the stock bore and sleeves and running a Type S piston (or some other OEM piston) or resleeving and running whatever bore/compression piston I choose. I am leaning towards resleeving. Do you know of another way to avoid sleeving to run a larger bore forged piston? I am open to options.
I'm considering building an engine with a larger bore, so I will need to sleeve the block... unless there is something that you know that I do not. As far as I know there is no way around that unless: 1) I avoid forged pistons and keep the stock bore (which I am also considering) and replacing them with an OEM piston, preferably the Type S pitons or; 2) find someone to bore the FRM sleeves to accept the .25 oversized cast OEM/Type S replica pistons or; 3) use Mahle Gold forged pistons with the stock FRM liners (I'm not interested in that route so lets not discuss that option further). There is no one in my area that works on FRM liners and thus option 2 is not a good option for me. So I am left with either keeping the stock bore and sleeves and running a Type S piston (or some other OEM piston) or resleeving and running whatever bore/compression piston I choose. I am leaning towards resleeving. Do you know of another way to avoid sleeving to run a larger bore forged piston? I am open to options.
or going all out and why not get the sleeves 97mm crank from the f23 aftermarket pistons and fully built head on e85 and make 300whp lol
that's me for a daily h2b.. on an old h2b ek that I had I made 220 with a completely stock block semi built head made 220 with a lil shot made just over 300. then the car got stolen.... but it was a very fun car to drive
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Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
solo, you just posted on an old thread the other day....said something like "wow, throwback". What thread was that again?
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Steve at Heart
Steve at Heart
Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **
Haven't fired the engine yet so I don't know. Didn't use a gasket, went with hondabond per instructions from Seth@QSD