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**Official H2B Discussion thread **

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Old 08-25-2015, 04:47 PM
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1991_crxsi, that is something I'd be very interested in. What's your price? DM me if you're not comfortable announcing it.

And where is what?!
Old 08-26-2015, 03:47 AM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by Dorkenheimer
1991_crxsi, that is something I'd be very interested in. What's your price? DM me if you're not comfortable announcing it.

And where is what?!
I posted a graph of a stock block H23a with a K2H from facebook. I can see it on my computer, but apparently something is wrong.
PM sent

Last edited by 1991_crxsi; 08-26-2015 at 05:14 AM.
Old 08-26-2015, 03:50 AM
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<p>I can see it.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><img src="http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-tech.com-vbulletin/720x720/80-11885385_899699830102422_6265170695004332918_n_1fc 328c771732d00cab8044935c27b2f98f77f92.jpg" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>
Old 08-26-2015, 06:51 PM
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Weird, I couldn't see it at all. Not even a failed link.

Stock block sure, but not stock LONG block with those numbers! That has to have cams.
Old 08-26-2015, 10:57 PM
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Bolt ons, balance shaft delete and tuning isn't unheard of to waking these Engines up. Pretty much the standard recipe for succes.
Old 08-27-2015, 06:41 AM
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Correct Bently.
Dorkenheimer- Mine made about the same with a stock long block, and pump gas, just balance shaft deleted and EuroR intake (218+). I made 216 WHP with a stock long block, bolt-ons, balance shaft delete, custom intake manifold and a PIG RICH TUNE. If it was tuned correctly, I expect it would have made this or better.
Old 08-27-2015, 06:34 PM
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If I put down 199hp, I'm holding all of you liable.

@1991, what type of dyno was that on?
Old 08-27-2015, 06:36 PM
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@Coop, how's yours coming?
Old 08-28-2015, 06:37 AM
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<p>No progress lately, need to get back at it with the weather starting to taper off. </p>
Old 08-28-2015, 06:42 PM
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If you only make 199, do a leakdown test or hold your tuner liable! LOL two different dynos, both DynoJets.
Old 08-28-2015, 08:28 PM
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@Bently, better get on it! Get that thing running and tuned before next season! Think it would be easier (and cheaper) to get dyno time in the winter months as compared to the spring/summer months?

@1991, I'm not sure where I'll take mine to get tuned yet. But aleady I'm leaning toward English Racing, since it's so damn close and they make some serious cars. OR, if the stars align just right, I wouldn't be opposed to taking a road trip out to KS to get tuned there. I don't know what type of dyno English has...I should look into that. If it's not a dynojet, I know my numbers will probably read out a little lower. I've seen how those dynojet's put out higher figures. I can't think of the other common dyno right now...the name is escaping me. dynocom? dynapak? idk.
Old 08-28-2015, 09:40 PM
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Ah, Dyno Dynamics. KS has this version of dyno. These are the ones that read typically lower. The dyno tuning section on their page is incredibly cocky...apparently they really stand behind their work. Not a bad thing.
Old 08-29-2015, 05:34 AM
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I wouldn't get too caught up in dyno numbers really. Dynos are a tool for tuning first and foremost. Get a baseline curve and record it. Then when the tune is finished you can see what the tune did for you. On any dyno that reads anywhere close to accurate you should be very close to or well above your goal. Here are a bunch of H23a BT graphs on various dynos and various configurations. https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...hread-3167079/ Overall it shows that the stock cams on the H23A BT perform pretty well and in some applications with all things considered might even be a preferred choice.
Old 08-29-2015, 08:29 AM
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Question here guys. I am thinking of building an H23A and installing these sleeves: Darton DRY Sleeve Kit Honda H22A H22A1 H22A4 H23 Part #: 300-018. The car will be a naturally aspirated (around 12ish comp) daily driver so I was wondering how big of a bore I could go to without sacrificing reliability. I know Darton says 89, and Randy Owens ran his racing at 90mm with no problems. I need to know if anyone has daily driven these at 90mm, or if you guys think I should just stick with 89mm? thanks in advance.
Old 08-29-2015, 02:13 PM
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<p>@SpeedFactoryRacing is a vendor of Darton sleeves they may be able to assist with your questions.&nbsp;</p>
Old 08-29-2015, 03:37 PM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

thanks Bently
Old 09-02-2015, 08:40 AM
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if you are daily driving it you dont really need sleeves but if you got the money to blow then thats your choice
Old 09-02-2015, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by soloturbo
if you are daily driving it you dont really need sleeves but if you got the money to blow then thats your choice
Haha... Well, to be fair, owning a "go-fast project car" is generally a great way to blow money. I have a DD car and this H2B car is more of a toy that I take to the track occasionally and could be DD if need be. I drive it when the weather is nice and I feel like driving the car. In short, my H2B CRX is an impractical waste of money. That being said, I am not interested in spending money that does not get me the results I am looking for. If you have something helpful to contribute please do so.

I'm considering building an engine with a larger bore, so I will need to sleeve the block... unless there is something that you know that I do not. As far as I know there is no way around that unless: 1) I avoid forged pistons and keep the stock bore (which I am also considering) and replacing them with an OEM piston, preferably the Type S pitons or; 2) find someone to bore the FRM sleeves to accept the .25 oversized cast OEM/Type S replica pistons or; 3) use Mahle Gold forged pistons with the stock FRM liners (I'm not interested in that route so lets not discuss that option further). There is no one in my area that works on FRM liners and thus option 2 is not a good option for me. So I am left with either keeping the stock bore and sleeves and running a Type S piston (or some other OEM piston) or resleeving and running whatever bore/compression piston I choose. I am leaning towards resleeving. Do you know of another way to avoid sleeving to run a larger bore forged piston? I am open to options.

Last edited by 1991_crxsi; 09-02-2015 at 09:49 AM.
Old 09-02-2015, 12:34 PM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by 1991_crxsi
Haha... Well, to be fair, owning a "go-fast project car" is generally a great way to blow money. I have a DD car and this H2B car is more of a toy that I take to the track occasionally and could be DD if need be. I drive it when the weather is nice and I feel like driving the car. In short, my H2B CRX is an impractical waste of money. That being said, I am not interested in spending money that does not get me the results I am looking for. If you have something helpful to contribute please do so.

I'm considering building an engine with a larger bore, so I will need to sleeve the block... unless there is something that you know that I do not. As far as I know there is no way around that unless: 1) I avoid forged pistons and keep the stock bore (which I am also considering) and replacing them with an OEM piston, preferably the Type S pitons or; 2) find someone to bore the FRM sleeves to accept the .25 oversized cast OEM/Type S replica pistons or; 3) use Mahle Gold forged pistons with the stock FRM liners (I'm not interested in that route so lets not discuss that option further). There is no one in my area that works on FRM liners and thus option 2 is not a good option for me. So I am left with either keeping the stock bore and sleeves and running a Type S piston (or some other OEM piston) or resleeving and running whatever bore/compression piston I choose. I am leaning towards resleeving. Do you know of another way to avoid sleeving to run a larger bore forged piston? I am open to options.
I would keep stock bore, 97mm crank from an f23, stock type s pistons and rods, use fully built head and intake and exhaust, and aftermarket headstuds and rods bolts

or going all out and why not get the sleeves 97mm crank from the f23 aftermarket pistons and fully built head on e85 and make 300whp lol

that's me for a daily h2b.. on an old h2b ek that I had I made 220 with a completely stock block semi built head made 220 with a lil shot made just over 300. then the car got stolen.... but it was a very fun car to drive
Old 09-02-2015, 03:36 PM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Anyone else waiting on their Kaizenspeed H2B oil pan?
Old 09-02-2015, 04:49 PM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

solo, you just posted on an old thread the other day....said something like "wow, throwback". What thread was that again?
Old 09-02-2015, 05:14 PM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by Dorkenheimer
solo, you just posted on an old thread the other day....said something like "wow, throwback". What thread was that again?
https://honda-tech.com/hybrid-engine...rence-2888176/
Old 09-02-2015, 07:13 PM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by RoadRaceH2B
Anyone else waiting on their Kaizenspeed H2B oil pan?
Just seen a picture yesterday of them being made. I have the QSD pan though.
Old 09-02-2015, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bently_Coop
Just seen a picture yesterday of them being made. I have the QSD pan though.
Does it leak?
Old 09-03-2015, 04:25 PM
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Haven't fired the engine yet so I don't know. Didn't use a gasket, went with hondabond per instructions from Seth@QSD


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