TypeR324

So I knew I needed new rear brakes and possibly a new left rear bearing, I brought the car to a local mechanic. I have heard great things about them from many people so I decided to give them a shot since I figured I wouldn’t be able to change the bearing myself. Anyways it turned out I got a new bearing (left rear), new brakes of course, new abs sensor/speed sensor (left rear) and a new hub (left rear) since I was told my old bearing destroyed the old hub since it was in such bad shape. I picked the car up this week, paid about $1500 for everything not bad considering I was told everything was frozen and they had to use a torch to get everything apart.

Anyways, when I picked the car up it drove fine until I took a right turn at about 25 mph, I heard a loud screeching sound, like metal on metal coming from the left rear. I was thinking it was the brakes breaking in but then I took another right turn with no brakes and I heard the same sound. Once I hit the highway on my way home things got much worse. Whenever I would accelerate while on the highway (around 65 - 70 mph) and let off the gas the car would shake or pull violently to the left and right. Even sometimes while I wasn't under acceleration on the highway I could feel the car pulling left and right although not as bad as under acceleration. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong? I am bringing the car back to the shop tomorrow and I would like to have an idea if they screwed something up before I bring the car in. I did check the tire pressure and all the tires are at 32 psi, I also thought they could have put the directional tires on the wrong side but everything looks good. I am guessing that there is no reason an allignment would fix this issue since the shop just worked ont the rear brakes hub and bearing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Black S2K

the alignment would get ****ed up if they got new hubs

btw i think u got ripped off bad i have never herd of a hub going bad cause the bearing were super bad.

and fyi allways ask the shop for ur old parts back so u knwo they actually put new **** in ur car

take the car back to shop and tell them to fix it ur pretty much ****ed though if u want ur money back

this is y i do 99% of the **** on my car myself

TypeR324

I did look at the hub before they put the new one on and it did look like it was in pretty bad shape, really rusted and worn right around where the bearing sat. I saw the new hub installed on the car when they were putting everything together so I know they really did replace it.

I am the same way with doing the work myself, but maybe 90%. The reason I had someone else do the work was I have no idea how to tell if the bearing was bad, plus I have no torch get all the rusted parts off. They originally quoted me about 450 for the brake job, replace the bearing and fix a broken stud. They told me they had a hell of a time getting some of the seized parts off. I stopped by to see the work periodically and the car was on their lift most of thursday all of friday and the almost the entire day monday. I doubt I got ripped off but then again I have no luck with other people working on my car.

So you think an allignment will fix the issues with the car pulling left and right?

The Black Pearl

I don't think it's alignment, probably ****ed up the bearing install. And 450 sounds crazy for brakes when you can do it yourself for about 100, but then again I've never checked how much a shop would charge for that

ap1 george

Actually my s2k my hub went bad, it was making the bearing noise but what I saw was the hub was worn uneven that the bearing wasn't seated properly anymore, so I just bought and replaced both..If you have a press then you're good to go.

ap1 george

And to the OP if your car makes squeeking and grinding noise going straight or turning specially on decceleration then it's your hub/bearing assembly. If you wanna make sure then jack up the side of the wheel thats making the noise and let the ebrake go (if rear) then hold the wheel 180 degrees apart and try shaking the wheel. If theres play they you have a bad hub/bearing. Temporary fix would be tightening the axle nut, this is only a band aid fix. Fix it ASAP, bad bearing can lead to your wheel falling off.

TypeR324

The $450 wasn't just for the brakes, it was also to replace a wheel stud that was broken and a new bearing. I think they said just the brakes would be $300 or so.

The grinding sound only happens when taking a sharp right turn, putting pressure on the left bearing which would make sense that they may have installed the bearing improperly. When I deccelerate quickly (at highway speeds) the bearing makes no sound but the car will shake somewhat left and right. I am going back to the shop tomorrow hopefully its not a big deal.

Could it be possible that a non OEM bearing (installed properly) could cause this problem?

ap1 george

Ok when the shop tries to fix this for you look at the hub cylinder thing where the bearing sits, look for any uneven surface, this is one of the overlooked things when changing a wheel bearing which leads to another bad bearing due to a worn hub resulting a bearing thats not seated properly. I changed my bearing on the same wheel 3 times now, after the second time I did some looking around and found out the hub was worn, so I replaced both hub and bearing and I've been noise free now.

want.a.hatch

just take it back to the shop and ask a mechanic to go for a ride to show them the problem.

TypeR324

Ap1 George thanks for the info. I just went outside and jacked the car up and there was a fair amount of play when I tried shaking the wheel. I also did the same to the other rear tire and it had no give what so ever, this is absolutely the problem. How would I go about tightening the axel nut for the ban aid fix? I don't get how I could have this problem because the shop replaced the hub so the surface the bearing is sitting on should be fine. My concern is that I live about 30 minutes (25 miles) from the shop where I took the car, is this unsafe for me to drive that distance?

ap1 george

Tightening the axle nut will press the bearing against the axle harder and it will prevent it from spining on the outside part, the reason the bearing is making a sound because if its busted/ not seated properly it spins on the outside (rubbing against the hub)

ap1 george

If the wheel play is less than 1 inch it's still drivable, just annoying.

TypeR324

Thanks for all the info, looks like I have some complaining to do tomorrow.I drove about 70 miles or so on the new bearing, I wonder if this could damage the bearing.

TypeR324

I just dropped the car off at the mechanic. After a quick ride in the car he guessed that everything may need to be retorqued, does that sound right, would that just be a band aid fix?

integ_lude

First off not to hurt anyones feelings but if someone quotes you $450 and then charges you $1500 there is a little difference there and I would have said stop, I will go to another shop thank you.

Second $300 for brakes is amazingly a rip off unless they are replacing both calipers with the resurfacing of the discs. I lived in Vermont for 21 years and I know all about rust, even with rusted calipers $300 is CRAZY!

Now that I have said that lets talk about a fix.

When turning if you hear a loud sound it is possible that they installed the bearing/hub assembly incorrectly or the bearing is not sealed 100%, and the grease released. Another thing that you want to make sure is where the CV shaft meets the Assembly make sure that all rust is sanded off, this can cause noise.

Honestly if it was me man bring your car back to the repair shop and have them fix your problem. For $1500 they most likely insure their work. I never go to a shop unless they guarantee their work.

TypeR324

They will gaurentee their work, and yes im annoyed that it cost so much to fix and they never let me know it was going to be $1000 more than originally quoted. They did however say they were having a hell of a time getting everything appart. They did not resurface the rear rotors, I had to get new ones since the old ones were in such bad shape. I have actually only spent around $1300 so far but the shop couldn't get the abs sensor since it had to be ordered from Honda. They want to charge me 2 hours labor to install the sensor which I am going to bitch about. Everytime I bring the car somewhere it turns into a nightmare, I really need to find a good mechanic or just become one myself.

stroker36

Good luck....hopefully they get it right without you coming out of pocket again.

TypeR324

I just got off the phone with the shop and they agree that the there is play in the wheel. They said that the bearing is installed correctly and they think the problem is the rear knuckle. I almost don't believe that the knuckle could be bad because before I brought the car to them there was no play in the wheel. Anyone know if a bad knuckle could cause these problems?

TypeR324

I just called the honda dealer where I used to go to ask them if a bad knuckle could cause these problems. They said the knuckle should only be bad if it was damaged somehow in an accident or by damaging it while taking the components appart. I feel like i'm getting ripped off.

The shop im using also said there is only one way to install the bearing on the hub so it has to be installed correctly, I feel like that is BS.

*edit* I just called the shop again cause im starting to freak out. At this point they only think that it is the knuckle they are taking everything appart right now to see if the knuckle is the problem. The owner of the shop said that the knuckle may be bad because of the heat generated by the bad bearing where it sits in the knuckle.

TypeR324

My final update for the day, I think the shop I went to is special or something. They have had the car since 10 this morning and they have not been able to get the axel nut off. I'm at a loss.

Black S2K

^lol
lets hope better luck is in ur future

TypeR324

Looks like I need a new left rear axel and a new knuckle, I just wonder if the shop could have damaged these parts when they were pulling everything off. This repair is killing my coilover and rims budget!!

jzicc86

wen i bought my s2k the rear caliper was frozen to the rotor took it to a shop were the guy does work for my family cuz i didnt feel like doin it he called me the next day with a qoute of 2500 for pads rotors and new calipers all around i went thr that second picked up my car ordered the one caliper from honda and new pads cut the rotors at local break shop and put everthing on myself.... 150 bucks... love wen ppl try to pull one on me

lesson is if you can do it yourself then **** doit

DirtyS2K

Well when you can't do it yourself alway always tell them you want all your parts saved on pick up.

Boots

wow dude, they obviously f*cked up the knuckle and they're making you pay for it...take it to a dealer, get a quote and complete vehicle inspection, then take all that info back to the original shop and make them rectify all their work and i would demand a refund...you may have to pay a rack fee at the dealer, but you'll save a **** ton in the long run