dagle

iTrader: (1)

lol how much does that run and what's special about it?

Black S2K

walls are good im sure everything is good it runs fine besides low oil psi at idle which is either due to warn out bearings or something with the oil pump. Im just going to swap another motor in and start a strocker build on this one.

Black S2K

lol y? im not going boost nor do I want big n/a numbers im 100% content with stock power, its more then enough to explore the limits of this chassis.

HondaKyle

A built short block for 4,000. You proved a crank, block and 4 weeks latter you have a built motor. You just need new oil pump, timing chain and all that junk.

dagle

iTrader: (1)

but you can save like 2 grand... lol alright whatever bud

dagle

iTrader: (1)

You don't have a machine shop or something? ILP is a great shop, but 4k for:
sleeves
pistons
rods
bearings
seals/hondabond

labor for:
cylinder boring
sleeve pressing
piston to wall clearance check/adjustment
rotating assembly balancing
bearing +thrust washer install

is pretty high when sleeves, pistons, rods and bearings are under 2 grand total. TBH i would rather send a block to our boy santos.

HondaKyle

4,000 for all that is a deal. You could build a motor for a little cheaper but the rods alone are 700, pistons 650 and sleeves are around 1200. You are getting a balanced and blue printer motor. The whole reason I had to start over with a new motor after my last one took a **** after a hour on the dyno is because I took it to just a shop.

dagle

iTrader: (1)

Sure, if picking between joe shmoe vs. ILP it may be worth the expense.

But if you have the parts in hand, it's not rocket science to assemble the thing. I mean you can get a Laskey block for 3600$ too lol.. I'm saying for Dave since he's not a noob, there are a number of options available for far less.

Eagle H-beam rods, JE/Wiseco/Arias pistons, sleeve liners, etc. would be more than enough for an N/A application and that can be kept under 2k through and through lol

Black S2K

Since I have time while im saving/sourcing a f22 im going to pop the oil pan off today after work to identify what rod bearings to get (so stupid you have to match the markings on the crank to the bearings needed why couldnt they just stamp that **** outside the block also?) going to order them and then swap them in next weekend maybe that will bring the oil psi back up. Will also have the chance to visually inspect the oil pump.

HondaKyle

Im sure it would have been a lot cheaper if I went with cheaper parts but I need a motor capable of over 700. Like you said eagle rods and get the Inline pro FRM pistons.

Black S2K

why do you need 700hp? I honestly dont understand what the hype is with big numbers is it to be internet famous? and s2000 with 700 hp is just as useless as a civic with 400 hp. Unless the car drag car or track dedicated time attack car with crazy aero all that power is straight useless and ends up being a pissing contest on the internet and meets.

kyle im not coming at your neck I guess I just dont get it.

dagle

iTrader: (1)

At the very least you'll want to take the crank out for polishing. You can run ACL bearings, they're one size fits all but obviously less fitted than oem.

HondaKyle

Its not about internet fame, its about winning races. Useless? I have traction and Ill have traction with +700RWHP.

dagle

iTrader: (1)

yo david saw on fb your ***** ***'d:

remove oil pan
remove timing cover
remove timing chain tensioner
remove timing chain from oil pump/crank
remove rod caps
remove main caps
polish crank surfaces
slip in new bearings
reassemble.

not sure how the flywheel/clutch will get in the way, but it should drop a bit lower after main cap girdle is removed. giving you enough space to work with from underneath.

HondaKyle

Any idea why the factory heat gauge would be maxed out before even turning my car on? I think it's just the temp sensor but I want another opinion.

Side notes: turn it on and after a few seconds it drops to one bart

dagle

iTrader: (1)

think thats normal for aem users, particularly aem v1. they may have fixed it in the v2 but not sure

HondaKyle

Im on Kpro, I had V2 and didnt have this problem. Im gonna talk to my tuner this week when I get oil.

dagle

iTrader: (1)

Probably the same issue, (ECT's fault). Modifry makes a solution for the AEM, not sure if it's the same issue for Kpro.

JUSTINTHECOASTI

I have Kpro V3 and it does the same thing, maxes out full hot then goes down to 1 bar then back to normal temps. Everyone I know that has kpro does this.

HondaKyle

Weird! It didnt do this until now and id say ive put around 3500 miles on this setup.

Black S2K

Checked the rod bearings they were fine so my best guess is the shavings are from either the main bearings or thrust washers. I will find out soon enough. I honestly dont want to put any money into this f20 unless its a proper build which atm I dont have the time and money for.

dagle

iTrader: (1)

lol i get it, but i'm telling you, you'll be way better served building an OEM rebuild (if parts are good) than buying a longblock. just my opinion though, since i'm running an OEM rebuild frankenswap and logged 20k miles thus far.

spanked a handful of S2k's in the process too lol

JUSTINTHECOASTI

hahaha yep, my theory on it is that when the engine is warm and you shut it off, the fans don't come on to cool things off so it will read what it got when the car was shut off lol I will post something on hondata about it to see what they say

Arsenal

EP3 as a daily?

dagle

iTrader: (1)

won't be much of an improvement from using the S as a daily lol