bb4socal

Ok...so i bought new Main bearings and i followed the procedure on choosing the main bearings. I used the color chart so ill list how for the bearings(colors) that the motor asked for. When i plastiguaged the Number 4 and 5 main are my concern. HEres the info you need,s o you can understand what im talkin about.

MAIN Bearings i got by color:
1.Green
2. Brown/Black
3. Black
4. Brown
5. Brown

Main Bearing Measured OIl clearance with Plastiguage:
1. .0015in.
2. .0015in.
3. .0015in.
4. .0015in.
5. .0015in.

Here are the specs Honda Suggest for Main to Journal Bearing Oil Clearance:
1. .0008- .0018in.
2. .0008- .0018in.
3. .0010- .0019in.
4. .0005- .0015in.
5. .0004- .0013in.

I also see that Honda has a Service Limit.
1. .0020in.
2. .0020in.
3. .0022in.
4. .0020in.
5. .0016in.


So i hope all that inof helps me show you what im talking about. SO as you can see my number 4 and 5 Main bearing oil clearances are out of spec. Well the number for is not exactly out, but its at the farthiest spec as you can see. The number 5 is my concern.

My question is what bearing should i use? What color(size)? Im sort of confused, Are my oil clearances on the two mains, too tight or loose? Please help. Thanks guys!

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

they're loose, but within the service limit. I'd say you are good. It probably says in the helms which bearing is the next tighter size though if you wanted to change them.

Props to you for actually measuing them though.

I imagine that they keep the clearances tighter on that end of the block due to the heat of the flywheel and tranny and such that wil cause the block to expand a lil more in that area.

alterdcreations

if you can change it then go ahead. if not then make sure that you torque everything to specs. i would go a extra 4 pounds of pressure on number 5 rod cap bolts

bb4socal

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they're loose, but within the service limit. I'd say you are good. It probably says in the helms which bearing is the next tighter size though if you wanted to change them.

Props to you for actually measuing them though.

I imagine that they keep the clearances tighter on that end of the block due to the heat of the flywheel and tranny and such that wil cause the block to expand a lil more in that area.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what does the service limit mean??


Thank you guys for yoru input..imma see what i can do. IF anyone else has any input go for it!

roller3804

The service limit is how far you can machine something until it is considered unsafe, unless this is a different case. But thats what it usually is

bb4socal

Whats going on guys! Ok so....i was thinking about this. You guys are saying that the bearing is too loose. Right? Well... if you think about how plastiguage works, that would contradict what was stated above. So we know that plastiguage when not smashed is in a cylinder form. We also know that when smashed it will turn "flat". From what plastiguage states, the wider it is the LESS oil clearance there is between the Main Journal and the bearing. Can we agree with this? Ok...so heres is where im confused. If what i just said was true about how plasti. works, then that would mean the Oil clearance is NOT ENOUGH. Because .0015 is a bigger number than .0013, that would mean the clearance is TOO TIGHT and i would have to go looser. I hope you guys understand. If anyone could please help, go right ahead. I need alot of help with this right now.

117

The clearance is the difference between the bore of the bearing halves and the diameter of the crank journal.

A clearance of 0.0015" is larger than a clearance of 0.0013", which means that if the high end of the spec is 0.0013", and you measure 0.0015", then you have too much clearance, i.e. your bearings are too "loose." You need to run thicker bearings for less clearance.

The service limit is the maximum allowable clearance on used bearings. The other spec is the range of usable clearances on new bearings.

The procedure in the Helms will walk you through how to select the proper bearings.

Missing Gears

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you can change it then go ahead. if not then make sure that you torque everything to specs. i would go a extra 4 pounds of pressure on number 5 rod cap bolts</TD></TR></TABLE>
xtra tq on the rod cap will not affect the bearing, it will only stretch the bolt. tq everything to factory spec. if your using an extension on your tq wrench which im sure you are, then add a few ft. lbs.

Revi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The clearance is the difference between the bore of the bearing halves and the diameter of the crank journal.

A clearance of 0.0015" is larger than a clearance of 0.0013", which means that if the high end of the spec is 0.0013", and you measure 0.0015", then you have too much clearance, i.e. you're bearings are too "loose." You need to run thicker bearings for less clearance.

The service limit is the maximum allowable clearance on used bearings. The other spec is the range of usable clearances on new bearings.

The procedure in the Helms will walk you through how to select the proper bearings. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Beat me to it.

Rosko

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Missing Gears &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
xtra tq on the rod cap will not affect the bearing, it will only stretch the bolt. tq everything to factory spec. if your using an extension on your tq wrench which im sure you are, then add a few ft. lbs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, too much torque will only cause more problems.

117

Why exactly does the block need to be line honed when using ARP main studs that use a higher torque spec (since the studs use a higher tensile strength material)? I was under the impression that the additional tension on the caps does distort the material. Wouldn't slightly overtorquing the main bolts do the same (to a smaller degree)?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Missing Gears &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
xtra tq on the rod cap will not affect the bearing, it will only stretch the bolt. tq everything to factory spec. if your using an extension on your tq wrench which im sure you are, then add a few ft. lbs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

bb4socal

Thanks for all yoru quick responses and great info. Well ill look at the Bearing chart that honda has and go a size smaller. IF i get a chance i post up a pic of the bearing size chart and ill see what you guys think. Thanks!!

alterdcreations

when you torque down bolts unless you use the special lub then you must apply more pressure.
also trust me i would want loose main bearing clearence bouncing around that crank on a hard shift with a stage four slutch.
Four pounds wont hurt you with a loose main bearing.
but its not a must
either way your will be alright.
like i said before replace it if you can

bb4socal

Will do

bb4socal

Ok bringing this back from the dead. Heres is the Main Bearing Sizing Chart that is in the Prelude Service Manual. I told you guys i would post this up so that i can get some opinions on what bearing to get. If you can recall, my Main Bearings for 4 and 5 were out of spec. What bearing do you guys think i should get?? Take a look at some of the previous replys and post to get an idea for where im at.

Missing Gears

believe it or not, as long as your crank/block/rods are in good condition you can use ALL green bearings as they are the middle size. it has been done time and time again w/o fail.

i have gone to honda several times and found that they have superceded some colors to green already. if a color isnt available they will supercede to the next color, if that color isnt available they will go to the next color.

now i dont know that i would feel comfortable using a black bearing where it calls for a pink bearing in a daily driver as they are completely opposite.

also think about where they call for two different colors (thickness) and tell you it doent matter which one goes up or down. if there was a measurable difference in thickness that would offset the line bore and cause major problems. we have measured all the colors before and goodluck trying to find any differences between bearings. even from one end of the scale to the next, your talking about a difference so small that your oil probrably wont even notice the difference.

go w/ green

pentaq

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Missing Gears &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
go w/ green </TD></TR></TABLE>

ACLs are in the green size. And they fitted exactly in the middle of the suggested clearance in my case