Sparksman

Been making some real headway! Trans has fluid, clutch has been bled, axles installed. Wire harness almost finished. I started a new thread to ask Q's about mystery plugs, had lots of pics and didnt want to put on this page.

It felt good to see the dash light up again!



So a year or two later when I plugged my lights in 1 of the 4 bulbs didnt work... So my passenger bright is out, but il replace that soon enough. I wasnt sure if my fogs didnt come on when the brights where on because the battery was low, or if thats how they all are? I almost want to rewire so when my brights are on all 4 headlights and both fogs are on. I dont get why the dims shut off anyhow, i want to light the world up in front of me.



side markers


I still want to add the 3rd brake light that goes top of rear window. Looking pretty cool as is though lol. I just really like oem lights.

BergRacing21

Looking good man! Keep it up!

Sparksman

Thanks!

Sparksman

So to the handful of people probably fallowing this thanks!

Today was the big day!!! It started!!! I then proceeded to do my happy dance sort of like this one -->

Its been almost 3 years and she's alive! Holy **** ***** dipped in marinara sauce. Its been a lot of work to get to this point, a lot of money, a lot of time, sacrificing my personal life to buy parts.. But all was worth it when I fired it up



Holy crap the heat wrap smoked like crazy! I wasnt exspectign it, and I thought my car was burning up lol.. So much smoke, if it was I couldnt tell.



So hooked PS up in the car for the first time since Ive owned it. I guess there are two hardlines behind the trans. My fresh topped off reservoir was gushed all over the driveway. Am I to just loop them, or where do they go?



I filled my radiator only to find a leak... I guess the threaded plug, that the screw plug screws into came out. I dont have money for a new radiator, and otherwise it worked perfectly fine. So I took some JB weld and used it as a gasket maker to seal the plug back in. Then I applied a hefty coat around the outside to seal it better. This pic was before I hit with some black paint, looks good as new.


After reinstalling the radiator I topped off. This moment


After a 20 minute break in I did a oil change. I used regular oil at first, but then threw some Purple in there.


Now she sits waiting for some small things, and needs a timing job bad. My cheap timing gun was a joke.. So im borrowing a buddies nice snap-on one next time im over there. I think I may have a sensor or two mix up, but I think I need the timing first so I have a baseline to work off of. It only idles at 3K, and if i touch the gas even gently it makes not so great noise. Im hoping thats the ignition timing being off causing all the issues

mchef117

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Right on dude. I'll bet u did a happy dance haha. I do one every time my lude starts! Lol jk

As for the PS leak, Um Don't loop the hardlines. Every indication is u stuck with PS ans the Prelude has speed assisted steering. Those hardlines have hard rubber hose connections that go into the VSS. but if you removed the hoses from the VSS when u polished her up then ur gonna have to locate the reinstall them to the hardlines. Right to right, left to left.

TracerAcer2.2L

I know the EXACT feeling of having your car finally start after 3 years of work lol, way to go!!

yohan

congratz bud!!

Sparksman

Thanks! Ya I never had power steering at all on my car, came delted but left in. This is the first time its been on and working since I dont know. its at least pumping fluids. I completely forgot the PS hooks into the trans lol... It should be there, I didnt take anything off and it came from HMO.

Thanks man! Just need to do a few more things and get it all legit.


Thanks dude! Cant wait to do a first drive!

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Im hoping to make it to work on it again in the next few days. Il update again when i make progress.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good. I just had my tranny out so those hoses are fresh in my mind lol. Keep it up! I have no time nor inclination to grind the whole trans case like u did though. Props!!

Sparksman

Update:

So I figured out all the wires with a diagram, sensors are hooked up right. It runs a LOT smoother now. Im still trying to figure out this Neptune program to get the idle just right, it runs but I feel like I should have done more adjusting. But adjust what?, is what I dont know lol...

There are 4 things that are keeping me off the road as of now.

1- Ignition timing. The head is milled .020", and using a cheap *** torque wrench I stripped one of the bolts on my AEM true-times... I was also worried about possible over tightening some others, and jeopardizing the integrity. Right now I have stock cam gears on and I can get it to go past 9 deg advance with the timing gun before it starts to sputter. I still havent inspected the AEM's, been busy with other things. Im hoping to drill out and re-tap the one cam gear. I thought of just the one bolt, but at high rpm wouldnt that cause it to be unbalanced if one bolt was heavier then the others? Anyhow Am i correct to suspect the .020" mill with stock gears is why I cant get the correct timing? Im also right off the header, would that effect it?

2- I think I need a new alternator, I had it tested and it failed like 5 of the 6 tests. It works to keep the car idling fine, but I think it cant keep up driving. Also would this throw a check engine light w/out a code?

3- I have a check engine light on, but when I jump the service connector I dont get any codes. From what I read that means I have a bad ECU? Is this correct? Because the Neptune program uploads, and stores the MAP. My Vtec pressure switch was only code I threw, and when I unchecked the box on Neptune the code went away. So the ECU and car is communicating. If its reading the MAP and taking commands how is it bad? Or could the open header?

4- My ABS light comes on after driving a few feet. I did install new hubs in the rear, but I also need a new battery too, doesnt want to hold a charge after sitting so long. I was thinking maybe that comes on if it doesnt get enough juice from both my bad alt and batt. If I step on the brake I can sometimes get it to pop on not moving.

snobordboy

Before getting too worked up on the other stuff, get a good battery and alt on there. If the system doesn't have enough juice, wonky things happen.

If you totally stripped out the cam gear bolt, I would agree that changing them all on that gear would be the best bet, or if you can helicoil that one small hole.

Dunno about Neptune settings for idle, but there a whole bunch of things to check, i.e. throttle body settings, iacv, vacuum leaks, fuel settings, injector deadtime settings, and on and on.

TracerAcer2.2L

I agree with snobordboy, get a new battery and at least check the alternator first.

Yes the milled head will throw off timing. But, I believe with neptune you set ignition timing on the computer? I'm running neptune and that's how my tuner did it.

Also, instead of using a gun, why don't you just turn the distributor until you get the correct idle (if you are able to get correct idle with milled head)? It's redneck but should get somewhat close, then finetune with neptune. This is assuming you have no vacuum leaks, which I highly suggest quadruple checking in a high-idle situation

Sparksman

I inspected the cam gears, one was in perfect shape, and on the other 4 of the 5 were in perfect shape. The one was damn near smooth stripped lol... I took a drill bit and just knocked the last couple threads off. The local parts store said they have a helicoil kit for $25 bucks in my bolt size.

From my reading I see people say for every .012" removed you should advance the timing gear 1 deg. Does that sound right? Im probably going to do 2 degrees for the .020" to try and bring back to factory.

I dont work tell late tomorrow, il post up some pics of my tune specs so you can see what Im working with. I can do the mechanical end of it, but Im in over my head with tuning specs. At least for now, never had to deal with it until now.




Im pretty sure you can do it from the computer alone, it has settings. Unfortunately Im no tuner, and can barely map a decent base map. I didnt want to go playing with it. I cant seem to find the option to ditch the EGR either, which I know has to be there. Or maybe it is off, I dont know lol... Honestly took me a minute to realize the O2 "heater" is the O2 sensor All Ive really done is set idle, vtec settings, injector size, and played with all the extra things like full throttle shifting, and anti-theft stuff.

My idle isnt surging, high, or pulsating. Its at a steady 1000-1,100, if it goes below 900 its shakes the car like mad crazy. I do have stiffer innovative mounts, and no balance shafts so Im expecting a little vibration. But I think maybe the cars lack of juice or bad timing my be the cause. Its just when I first start it up I have to give it gas or it dies. I dont have a FITV on my S2 Pro series TB, but I didnt think it would be that bad, at least without snow outside lol. As for the gun its a fancy higher end Snap-On digital timing gun, I trust its accurate.

Also with the BS delete 7.5lbs gone, a 8lb flywheel is 12lbs gone, and the H23aV has the lightest H crank 34lbs, 50mm H22a is 43lbs. That makes my rotating assembly 28.5lbs lighter then a base H22a. I noticed how touchy the throttle is, but more importantly also how fast it drops in rpms pushing in the clutch or letting off a rev. When I start it I give it gas and it goes. But if I take my foot off the throttle too fast it drops below idle and it dies. Thats another thing Im hoping the bat alt is responsible for. Or at least just need idle tuned better.

As for vacuum leaks I dont know what extra vacuums hoses Im running. I have one for my Map, connected to little pipe in back of mani. The FPR with is right up front. The ABS, and soon to be cruise control. I bought two packs of vacuum line plastic covers and went over it plugging them all.

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Anyhow Im waiting on payday so no real progress to report. Il post up some pics tomorrow afternoon.

TracerAcer2.2L

Sounds like you've done your research and have a good direction troubleshooting then!

Couple questions:

What is H23a"V"? Typo?

Where can I find more H/F series crankshaft information? It's cool that you know what crank is lightest, that would help my build in the direction I'm going. Wondering if you know where to find more info like that too

Sparksman

H23a"V" is just referring to the factory blue top V-tec version of the H23a.

I got it from ESP.net on another thread.

H22A/A1 50mm crank=43 lbs
H22A4 55mm crank=41 lbs
F20B crank=36 lbs
H23AV crank=34 lbs
H23A1/F22A1 crank=38 lbs

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So I made a thread in the engine management section. Here is a link if any experienced guys like the mods could take a look. I posted a bit of pics of the program and settings.

https://honda-tech.com/engine-manage.../#post50444081

I also have my rims on the car Just need some TLC and the badges back on. Then it will be looking good!

TracerAcer2.2L

Thanks for the info! Any chance you'll repaint the sideskirts? Then she'll look minty

Sparksman

Thanks lol, I still need to detail/cut&buff her. The rear and side skirts are oem CD5 accord plastic trim. The front is a CD5 Mugen Rep I made work. All the trim is black plastic, so I think Im going to just use that black plastic stain on them. Also use it on the window seals to bring them back to life too.

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Update: Il post pics in a day or so.

I bought a new alternator and a new battery. Since then the ecu cell is gone, and the abs light throws a code, as well as the cell light. I cant recall what they were at the moment. I think it was o2 and front right wheel. My speedo isnt working, i wonder if it has somethign to do with that..?

Anyhow after getting some help from various sources I turned off closed loop and VE tables for tuning. Also turned off knock sensor, eld, and atmospheric. I was able to get my 15 degrees ignition timing perfectly. I could get about 17, almost 18 before it sputtered. Im currently mechanically advanced 1.5 degrees. From everywhere Ive read I feel pretty safe there, and it is closer to a true 0. Which until I can get on a dyno will have to do.

I found my tune shop, their called Track Forged Inc located just outside Portland, Or. We have a International Raceway, within 25 minutes drive I have 12 tuner shops lol. I guess Im kind of fortunate in that aspect, a couple hours drive up north theres also Kaizenspeed, and Speed Factory. Not all too many tune with Neptune though, Im happy Track Forged does. They have really good rep locally, and abroad. I have a buddy with a TT RX7 with a 2 rotor Wankle they blue printed for him.

Now I just have to learn the Neptune program a little better and start tuning. Anything above 2k and it goes super lean. Its running a little rich because i was open loop and still had VE tables activated.


Now my 2 step is at 4k, but it goes lean at 2k. I was told I shouldnt tune at a stand still, or how high can I tune at a stand still? Honestly 4k would be all I need to make it to the muffler shop 1/4 mile away. Tuning without moving would make it lean under load correct? I cant drive and tune with open header in housing area, and I need to drive to muffler shop. See my dilemma?

98vtec

Pull fuel out at idle in the actual fuel map and then add 10% to the overall fuel multiplier in the fuel submenu where you setup your injectors. You may need less or more but using that multiplier will get the map closer to target 100x faster before doing fine tuning in the map so you can actually drive it. If the engine is still stock internally, you have a very very large window of error and normal, easy driving doesn't build up enough heat to cause damage quickly. Keep in mind you want to run in the mid 12's to 13's during warm up and until you reach operating temps, you will want to be a tad richer than when at operating temps under load.

Sparksman

Thank you, I appreciate the advice! Im going saturday to work on the car, I'l tinker with it and get back to you guys.

Thanks again

98vtec

back when I was tuning, I would create every map from scratch and make sure everything was smooth (pay attention to your 2d fuel tables, the lines should never cross) before I even start the engine. this takes some time but its worth it in the end. this system is called speed density. the fueling/ignition algorithm doesn't pull from only the highlighted cells. its pulling data from surrounding cells (as well as using the multipliers from IAT, ECT, overall trim...etc) as well so, generally, what one area on the horizontal line wants, the one above it and below it will likely want something of the same.

your 2d maps should "flow" and have a shape to it with no sharp dips or peaks and relatively even spacing between the horizontal lines.

You will notice once you start playing with fuel pressure that the fuel map shape will change drastically. when you get to a point where the horizontal lines are flat, don't mess with the fuel pressure anymore. I found the RDX like 55psi and my 13 sec prelude, at the time, got nearly 40mpg on the highway.

You really need to read some books as they will teach you a lot about speed density. start with Electronic Fuel Injection by Ben Strader. its a great introductory book.

98vtec

also if you use the help files located in the software, it will give you links to helpful videos and it will provide you with detailed information of what nearly everything does in the software.

Sparksman

Hey everyone! Long time since I've been on... well I've made a bit of progress and will update soon! I'm currently on way to get my car dyno'd for first time today! I hope all goes smooth, my goal was 220whp. I figure it will fall between 210-230. Anyhow I'm nervous as hell lol.

98vtec

good luck!

TracerAcer2.2L

Don't be nervous! My old h22 sat for 3 years before it got tuned, revved to 7800 no prob. You'll be fine