91prelude4me

My wife's A/C wasn't cooling well, so she took it to a mechanic who told her that she needed to have the system converted to take R134a. They would flush the system, put on a new accumulator, add compatible oil and R134a . . . for $456. Seems like a lot of dough to me. Is it reasonable?

InvaderTrax

Not nearly that complicated any more. All they have to do now are replace the fittings and remove the R12. They make R134a that's compatible with the old oil

1fastlude1

yea it sems reasonable, u dont just change the fitings and charge it, u have to flush the entire sys, change the drier/accum., u should also change the expansion valve or orfice tube, it has to be flush to work properly, and so they dont contaminate other systems with there machine after doing yours

pentaq

there is a genuine retrofit kit from Honda you can buy quite cheap. It contains new valves and a special spray you put into installation to neutralize old oil and stuff.

Part number 38020-SM4-A1AH- don't know about availability.

91prelude4me

So with that Honda kit does the accumulator still have to be swapped? (I'm a complete novice here and trying to understand this stuff.) Maybe she should take it to a Honda dealer?

jzobie1

I used to think that it cost a lot of money and was an involved process to convert. Two weeks ago my g/f mothers car needed an ac charge so I went to the auto store and bought the R12 to R134 conversion kit for $40 and it had everything that is needed to convert. All you have to do is purge the rest of the old stuff out by releasing the low pressure side (it tells you which one that is). Just make sure that when you are recharging the system you jump the pressure switch because it has a fail safe to not allow the compressor to run when it is too low.

Jonathan_ED3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jzobie1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to think that it cost a lot of money and was an involved process to convert. Two weeks ago my g/f mothers car needed an ac charge so I went to the auto store and bought the R12 to R134 conversion kit for $40 and it had everything that is needed to convert. All you have to do is purge the rest of the old stuff out by releasing the low pressure side (it tells you which one that is). Just make sure that when you are recharging the system you jump the pressure switch because it has a fail safe to not allow the compressor to run when it is too low.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet the system fails within a month!

And for the record --- what you are recommending is illegal. You cannot release R12 (or R134) for that matter into the atmosphere! It must be recovered.

ethereal2pt2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I bet the system fails within a month!

And for the record --- what you are recommending is illegal. You cannot release R12 (or R134) for that matter into the atmosphere! It must be recovered. </TD></TR></TABLE>

not to mention the reason why that fail safe is there is to prevent damage to the compressor while it's dry..

jzobie1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I bet the system fails within a month!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Still going and I have talked with many people, including mechanics, who have used this method. Some systems may fail because it was in poor condition in the first place after having to run with the low amounts of oil that it needs FOR EXTENDED PERIODS OF TIME! being low on r12 before it shuts the compressor off. Or maybe the reason there is no more R12 left is because there is a leak causing you to lose the R134 also. Spend some time doing research.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ethereal2pt2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not to mention the reason why that fail safe is there is to prevent damage to the compressor while it's dry..</TD></TR></TABLE>

And do you pour motor oil in the head of your motor while starting it up? Didnt think so; the thirty seconds that it took for me to COMPLETELY refill the system with oil while the compressor was running did absolutely no harm to the system. The fail safe is built into the system in case you are running low on refrigerant for the 10 years or so that you go between checking the level of your refrigerant.

John Bennett

Very cool!

Thank you Pentaq!

92civlude

I would suggest find out why your AC blows warm, fix it, then install the Honda kit. Repairing may not involve replacing a bunch of parts.

218luder

i had mine changed out for $200. your best bet is to do it yourself man.

RandySea

Like 98prelude4me, my wife's Honda Accord 1992 air conditioner has over the past couple of years gotten less and less cold. Just today, I got four different suggestions from repair shops. All agreed that it was likely to be low freon. All in the Seattle area, all info just by phone.

1. Independent repair shop that does "some air conditioner repairs": Refill the R12 for around $100 and hopefully get "another 4 years" of use before it needs another refill. Will check with a sniffer to see if there are any obvious leaks.

2. Midas: $50 diagnostic fee. Go from there. Could just be a leak and need freon. R12 would cost $70/lb, up to 2 lbs needed.

3. Honda dealer #1: Probably a slow leak. Diagnostic and dye to look for leaks, recharge and put in sealant, $145. When I said it was an R12 system, they recommended an R134 conversion for $250, including flushing, new parts (seals), and the R134. They don't do R12.

4. Honda dealer #2: Just recharging with R12 might work, but they don't have any and can't (or won't try to) get it. Really think I should get a diagnostic first for $190, could be less if they see something obvious right away to fix. If it needs recharging, the total with the conversion kit and R134 will be around $450.

I decided to go with #3. Just adding R12 seems iffy. $250 is worth it and this dealer shop has been reliable, at least it was until a great service mgr retired two years ago.

THC07

^^

Perfect advice.

although You dont "have" to change the dryer/accum, exp valve, orfice, but if you can afford it then you should. Somtimes you can just change the schraders and evac/charge.
Check for leaks!! looking around the fittings, if you see oil build up then a seal my be bad.

You do however have to get a full evacuation, this takes about 30-40mins, period!

I have noticed that with r12 you can get cooler duct temps then with 134a. if this is true or not? it sure seems to be. I do about 3 conversions a week, if the customer will allow the cost then i do change said items. diffferent places cost different prices, 456 seems a bit high. today im converting a suburban for 189 total. Norcal.

Cromaxgal

My independent Honda car tech converted my AC from r12 to r134A and now that I live in Phoenix - I'm having serious problems with it. The car tech now says he needs to convert it back to make it work properly. I have a 1992 Honda Civic and ticked off big time. I'm thinking of calling him and telling him I want my money back. Then can have it fixed properly. Having no AC in Phoenix in summer is a drag. Any suggestions.

Also, it's so hot here, that the plus won't hold the pressure and keeps blowing out and I lose all the freon. Grrrrr

Cromaxgal

Sorry, PLUG

94eghatch2012

if i have an evaporator and hardlines from an r12 system but condensor and compressor from r134a system it will still work right? and the drier is r12. will that all work?