b18a1crxsi

When it starts does it idle w/out holding the gas? A bad or going bad Main relay for the fuel pump will cause the car to start for a sec then shuts off becuz there is not enough fuel. U could buy a Adapter off ebay to test the fuel pressure. U take the fuel rail nut/cap off the line slid the fuel line off out of the way. Then theres the male part of the banjo bolt. U grab it with vise grips and turn it out. Then u replace the banjo stud with adapter. It changes it from a stud to a bolt with 1/8 female pipe thred in the top so u can screw a gauge into it or a fuel pressure sender for a gauge in the car. If u need any pics i have changed mine and i have a old fuel rail in my basement so i could show u pics of it all. If it stalls rite after start up I personally think it not getting fuel pressure. Or its just enough to start the car then it dies

b18a1crxsi

A oxygen sensor would not make the car stall like that. The doesn't even use the sensor till about 20-30 sec after the car is started.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

It does exactly like in the video just starts and then dies immediately. In order for me to keep it alive I have to give it gas and the car sounds like its running on 2 cylinders.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Just replaced the main relay and so far so good. The real test to see if it fixes my issue is to wait and see how it starts up in the mext few days.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Well I have been driving my car around for a bit now and it has only done the starting issue once just like my old main relay that was in the car. So maybe it has nothing to do with the main relay at all. But now I have noticed a different issue which os once my engine warms up to operating temperature it looses power as if a sensor is telling the ecu to pull timing. I have read some threads on here and people say it could be the icm in the distributor or could be a cooling sensor or the IAT sensor. Sounds like a real tail chaser with this issue. Just to be sure I have checked my timing and its dead on on the t-belt.

White_EG1

Keep us posted man. This is my thread about the same issue. https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...talls-3245032/

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Well White EG1 I would recommend you change the main relay and see if your issue persists. My issue is just now chasing may tail and finding out why my car seems to lose power while at operating temperature, the car still runs but just seems to be under a load after driving for a little while. I will have to test and then determine if I should replace the ICM in my distributor. I bought it used 3 years ago with unknown amount of miles on it. Plus I will check my grounds today and see if I can find anything out fo the ordinary.

White_EG1

But is it having the start up issue anymore? Turn it on and off immediately a couple times. Try checking the thermostat ground ron was talking about.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Like I said before it only has had the starting issue once and that happened yesterday. Instead of it dying immediatley it stayed running but was chugging sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders and then after about 30 seconds it came to life and idled normally. I checked all my grounds and they are solid.

White_EG1

Any updates? I replaced my main relay, and alternator. And it hasnt happened. But it usually takes 2 weeks for it to do it. Hope you figure it out bro.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Have not had the issue yet well atleast it wanting to die out uppn startup so that is good. I am still chasing my tail on my issue of the power loss when the car is warmed up I will replace the distributor and the fuel pressure regulator and see where it takes me.

White_EG1

Are you getting any cels?

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Nope no CEL's at all. Just having the same issue as always as soon as the car gets warmed up it loses power and feels like a slug. Its either sensor related or fuel related or its heat soak in the engine bay and causing it to lag that much.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

So my start-up issue hasn't returned yet. I just changed my fuel pressure regulator as well so lets see how far I get before it returns if at all. This honestly could be a tuning issue since I am running just a basemap so I need to get my *** to a tuner and see what they can do for me.

Lude_wey

Hey there thirsk66, I hope you don't mind if I post here, as I been reading here and thought maybe someone here might help she'd some new light on my issue. 1992 honda prelude 2.2L changed dizzy, spark plugs, wires, 2 main relay's (not new, but seem like they are. Got from junkyard) fuel pump, fuel filter. Just rebuild the engine so these parts all actually needed to be changed. Next going to check all grounds but other than that. When the car starts, it runs REALLY GOOD! but most of the time it doesn't want to start. It cranks good, sometimes sounds like it will start. Sorry for making this super long guys, my apologies.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

So I changed the icm and the car runs the same way so I will change my cap out since its old as hell and has black dust on the inside of it just to check that off the list. It really does look like this is a tuning issue, but then again with any ecu in the car the engine feels like its under stress so I am just continuing to chase my tail here.

White_EG1

Something between replacing the alternator and main relay fixed my problem.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

That is awesome you fixed your issue. I am right there with you my issue has not returned for a long time.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Huge question sometimes when I go to start up my car the temeperature gauge is already reading the car is warmed up to operating temperature, when in fact the car is cold and going through its warm up cycle. Does this mean I have an issue with my engine coolant sensor or something? I just replaced my ect sensor about 4 months ago.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Im asking you guys can a crank sensor be bad and not throw a code? Im thinking that my cheap non oem crank sensor I purchased from eBay when I first did my swap is crapping out on me at times which is making my car have the start up issue and sluggish powerband. Not to mention my gas milage is awful and has been for some time now.

b18a1crxsi

If it was happening while driving and it happened more than twice in two drive cycles the computer would pick it up and throw a check engine light. It will still run but runs in limp mode and if its 0bd2 the computer wont let it rev past 3100 rpm. It will come up as a honda p14$$ somthing code. I had a problem with a ckf/tdc crank sensor. The prelude would not rev over 3100 unless i reset the code and untill the computer went through its checks of the sensor, the computer realized the sensor wasn't working so it threw a crank pos code and pit it in limp mode about 40 sec after the car started.

So if it was a crank sensor that was cutting out for a cupple seconds if it did it two times it would throw a code. Its prob more like 02 sensor cutting out and making it run rich or fuel pressure regulator. Even thow ive never seen a regulator f-up

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

That is the thing I dont run an obd2 ecu or havent ran one in two years, I run a chipped p28 ecu so maybe that is my issue. I have since then just to make sure its not my crank sensor put back in my obd2 p5m ecu to see if the code pops up or not. The car has never stopped running or shut off while driving it just has the start-up issue explained in this thread. I have also replace the fuel pressure regulator and it has been running fine, but has had the issue from time to time of not wanting to stay on or idling, it happens though when the car is warmed up or its super hot outside. I am chasing my damn tail on this issue and my car should not feel this slow or sluggish I swear most times it feels like it only 70 horsepower and that is a problem.