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From what I have learned on cam gears, try and find a used set with larger bolts that have a large head, not the tiny little 4mm allen bolts that most use, as they are prone to slip at inopportune times, like 7K rpm on a dyno pull!
If you do get gears with the small bolts, use loctite on them!
Pretty sure I mentioned it earlier, and it is in the FAQs as well, but the "20$ H/F balance shaft delete" works very well.
I have my balance shafts deleted, and did "window weld" filled motor mounts, and there is not an excessive amount of vibration, so oem or modified mounts should be fine. Solid mounts might suck but they are for race only applications anyways.
From what I have learned on cam gears, try and find a used set with larger bolts that have a large head, not the tiny little 4mm allen bolts that most use, as they are prone to slip at inopportune times, like 7K rpm on a dyno pull!
If you do get gears with the small bolts, use loctite on them!
Pretty sure I mentioned it earlier, and it is in the FAQs as well, but the "20$ H/F balance shaft delete" works very well.
I have my balance shafts deleted, and did "window weld" filled motor mounts, and there is not an excessive amount of vibration, so oem or modified mounts should be fine. Solid mounts might suck but they are for race only applications anyways.
Thanks Ive heard the same regarding the cam gear bolts. I've been looking for a good used set but no luck so far. I may just order obx and get different bolts. I'll have to take another look at the $20 BS delete. t would be nice to save $100 but I'm afraid it'll be more time consuming. I'm gonna be rushing it anyway trying to do a wknd build. Thanks
Last edited by sublimeluder; 08-04-2015 at 08:37 AM.
Reason: wasn't finished
Nah, the time consuming parts of the actual work are the same for the KS delete or the "homemade". The prep time is a bit longer, as you have to go buy the metric rod, and the freeze plugs, compared to opening a box. Oh and you don't get the damn sexy KS cnc bits, and spacers.
One thing to keep in mind, on that one, the guy messed with the bearings, but if you do the blocking of oil ports right, like KS does it, you don't even need to touch the bearings.
Nah, the time consuming parts of the actual work are the same for the KS delete or the "homemade". The prep time is a bit longer, as you have to go buy the metric rod, and the freeze plugs, compared to opening a box. Oh and you don't get the damn sexy KS cnc bits, and spacers.
One thing to keep in mind, on that one, the guy messed with the bearings, but if you do the blocking of oil ports right, like KS does it, you don't even need to touch the bearings.
That's what I was thinking. If u block the main oil supply there's know need to mess with bearing. Thanks for clearing that up. I gotta question for ya.*Who do u think makes the best base maps.
That is awfully subjective. My first advice is always to ask whomever will be actually tuning the car and see what they say.
If you are buying an ecu, and buy from a vendor such as HAmotorsports, who is a Honda-Tech sponsor, they will include at least one basemap with the ecu for you, and are reputable.
Main names that come to my mind are Xenocron, Phearable, HAMotorsports, Turbogixxer, KSTuned.
I generally have done my own tuning, but I did trust Turbogixxer with it as well. Too bad my cam gear let go on the dyno.... but that was not his fault.
That is awfully subjective. My first advice is always to ask whomever will be actually tuning the car and see what they say.
If you are buying an ecu, and buy from a vendor such as HAmotorsports, who is a Honda-Tech sponsor, they will include at least one basemap with the ecu for you, and are reputable.
Main names that come to my mind are Xenocron, Phearable, HAMotorsports, Turbogixxer, KSTuned.
I generally have done my own tuning, but I did trust Turbogixxer with it as well. Too bad my cam gear let go on the dyno.... but that was not his fault.
I should have worded that differently. I'm kinda ignorant about tuning. I understand the basics but anyhow. Your wright I need to just contact the tuner.
I've gotta question for y'all. I've got a euro r head and was wanting to get euro r IM. But I'm a little confused on what needs to be done. Its meant for the head so obviously it will mount up. I know ill have to relocate the iac. Will my fuel rail and injectorss mount up? I'm still obd2 at the moment so I'll have to hook up egr. Thanks ahead.
Here you go this is the best route to go if you want the euro-r manifold. ***Rosko Racing***
Lol thanks I've looked at that site many times and have read what has to be done. I just wasn't exactly sure why. I knew the sensors and vacuum lines had to be modified and rerouted. But unless I have euro r im gasket and injectors it has to be done. I saw a stock euro r im on eBay for $200 but it quickly went up $350. Which was still a good buy with stock tb, injectors and air intake. But I didn't really know what had to be done. Anyhow thanks
I just ordered a balance shaft eliminator kit and install kit. I should've just bought freeze plugs, tap and everything separate. But I been hearing some weird noises coming from timing belt area. Its making me a little worried. So I'm planning rebuild for next wknd. I'm pretty obsessive over engine noises. I thought my power steering pump was chirping. I know its coming from one of the pulleys Im just not sure which one. It now sounds like the bearings are going out. Its very audible on start up and then it fades a little. I've also been getting a weird vibration when pulling out. Its very faint and only last for a second. I dunno hopefully I'll findout when I tear into it.
Update: I just checked out the weird noises. Im about 99% sure its coming from the AC compressor
Last edited by sublimeluder; 08-23-2015 at 07:13 AM.
I gotta question. Should the wrist pins and clips be replaced? I know cylinders don't need honed but I'm still gonna try to hand deglaze them with something. Any recommendations? Really fine Scotch pads.
I gotta another question regarding head porting. I may have screwed mine up. I'm very new to porting so I did a lot of research but maybe not enough. Wright underneath the exhaust seat theirs a little bump/ridge that wraps half way around the bowl. I didn't see this on any pics I've looked at so I tried to blend itin. I was second guessing myself so I did some more research and came across a site called the old one. They said removing this greatly reduces flow. Can anyone else confirm this?
What up fam im FINALLY starting my rebuild. I'll try and remember take pics for everyone. I started unhooking everything last night. I was supposed to take the head to machine shop this morn so he'd have it finished Fri. Oh well He should be able to finish it in 2 days. I gotta question is it easier to leave intake manifold on or
take it off? I've done got everything disconnected but the IM bolts look like there gonna be a pita to get to.
The build is going pretty slow. I got the IM and head off yesterday. The machinist is behind on work and said head won't be done til mid next wk that sucks. Anyway the oil pan was a pita to get off and the girdle is being just as stubborn. Besides that its an average rebuild. I'll post pics of progress if anyone is interested. Oh and
who ever changed the balance shaft belt last had it off center. I was thinking the belt was taken off because I'd get some weird vibration when pulling out. I've got the delete kit but I'm still hesitate to put it on. But hell the vibration probably wouldn't be any worse than before idk
Well I've got the bottom end back together. I installed new rings, seals and rod bearings. I left the stock main bearings they was in great shape. I just cleaned the injectors, IM and installed new gaskets. Hopefully I'll get the head back tomorrow. I've never saw a head with so much carbon*build up
I bet I'll gain 15 HP from getting rid of the carbon and new valve job. Maybe another 5 from the kstuned sticker
Last edited by sublimeluder; 10-13-2015 at 08:16 AM.
Reason: wasn't finished
What up guys. I finished up my engine last week. I changed every seal and gasket in it. Its like a brand new car hooray. I got my timing belt a little to tight with the manual tensioner. So I had to take it all back apart to loosen it last night. It freaking sucked the timing cover was a bitch putting back on. Anyway I've gotta question for y'all. How long should it take for my rings to seat? I know its different for every engine and there's a lot of variables. I got about 50 miles on it but it still seems to be lacking a little power. It already has more power than before but it needs more lol. The machine shop did a radius valve job on the exhaust side instead of a 3 angle on both. I wonder if it would've been stronger with 3angle
Last edited by sublimeluder; 10-27-2015 at 08:52 AM.
Just make sure to keep driving it with a big emphasis on decelerating under power for a bit, that is what I think makes the largest difference in the rings seating well. Drive it hard for at least the first 500 miles, with a few oil changes, then drive like normal and swap to synthetic, with a good zinc additive.
Thanks for the reply. Thats how I been driving it and im planning on switching to synthetic also. There's a lot of mixed opinions on how to break in an engine. But that's seems to the most widely accepted for Honda's. I'm bad about second guessing myself so thanks for confirming I'm doing it wright.
Lol. Really I've just been driving how I normally do. Well besides the accel and deccel a lot more. I haven't taken it over 6k yet. In my opinion an engine should be broken in how your gonna drive it. I'll probably be tearing back into it in a year or 2 anyway. I just wanna make sure it can handle the abuse in the mean time
Everything seems to be going good. I took a joyride up the mountain yesterday it seemed to like it lol. I'm barely over 100 miles so I'm not ragging it to hard. I got a mitsuboshi timing belt. I thought I had it to loose but after warm up it gets nice and tight. I guess its the type of material its made from. But it about drove me crazy until I learned it was just the belt lol.
Well I'm probably gonna have to loosen the belt some more. It whines after it warms up and belt shrinks. I'll probably give it a wk to see if it'll stop. But I'll probably just go get a OEM belt like I should have done the first time.
Just make sure to keep driving it with a big emphasis on decelerating under power for a bit, that is what I think makes the largest difference in the rings seating well. Drive it hard for at least the first 500 miles, with a few oil changes, then drive like normal and swap to synthetic, wi
th a good zinc additive.
I've got 400 miles but my rings still aren't seated. Ive been driving hard but I don't think I've been accel deccel enough. I just checked compression 190 1-4. Itshould be 200-220. Hopefully it just needs more time. If it hasn't seated in next month I'm gonna tear apart and hone cylinders. Idk what u think?
I went to grandfather mountain yesterday. On the way back down I let it engine break in 2nd down the mountain. When I got to the bottom and gave it gas it was smoking like crazy. So it obviously had some blow by. I checked oil when I got home and I burn 1/2 qt oil. I'm gonna have to disagree with people saying not to hone h22 (deglaze). I think 400 grit stones or 600 grit flexi hone would be perfect. I think the only reason Honda came out saying not to hone was because they was over honing and messing up. My rings may seat eventually but I think they would've seated a lot faster with a new cross hatch.
What up guys. I took the car out and let it engine break fro 7-3k about 15 times and checked compression again. 195 1-4 so hopefully it'll keep going up. I can actually tell a difference in the power since I ragged it a bit. What's everyones thought should I drive normal for the next 1500 mile or keep trying to seat rings.
08-04-2015, 07:00 AM
Re: poor mans h22 build
