razorlude

Hi all,wondering how much oil pressure you guys got to who that have a engine oil cooler installed on a h22(jdm),i don quite remember well so i guess i'm getting 60~80psi (cold) and around 12psi(warm)before oil cooler.After done installing a 10row(in outlet AN10) cooler while ago i'm getting only 45psi at cold and less than 10psi after warm up(80celcius). seems like something isn't right,dare not to roll the car out now

Acidcrakker

IDK, anything under 10psi at complete engine warm up means your oil pump is bad

lostforawhile

you have an oil pressure issue, and no it's not usually the pump

Acidcrakker

Could very be, how do you know without inspecting the car.

He did state that he has 12psi without the part that he just installed in. Which is fine, because according the helms at hot idle 10psi is the minimum you should have. Anything else below that needs further looking into.

Since at hot idle he was getting 12psi and than after installing it he is getting less than 10, than the most logical answer would be the part he put on is incorrect installed or just maybe his pump isnt good enough anymore to strain it through his new part?

It is all theory over the net based on info given.

lostforawhile

it's not very often that oil pumps fail on hondas and the minimum is just before the engine starts locking up, even at that minimum pressure you can start to have cam journal damage

razorlude

thanks for both of ur response n sorry for the
mininum info i had provided in a rush after a whole day of struggling on the cooler installation n then low oil press issue @.@. today i trial error bypassin the cooler,worse i got zero reading,got me come to suspect the pressure sender,checked wiring,checked sender resistance found good end up found out "sender pressure inlet port" (don know what to really callthatt) was choked with brownish soot(carbon i supposed,fyi my lude has been on jackstand for months n rarely fire it up).clean it up,enlarge the hole from 1mm dia to 3mm.

now im getting constant 14~16psi at idle,but still 45psi only at 3000rpm and there after til full throttle.izit normal?i see there are posting claim 80psi at wot.that got me wonder n heart hanging half way >.< really dont wanna get on the oil pump cos my garage isnt equipped to get job like that done yet.oh ya im using Nrg gauges(taiwan made imitation i guess) nrg usa website don even hv gauges selling

razorlude

thanks for both of ur response n sorry for the
mininum info i had provided in a rush after a whole day of struggling on the cooler installation n then low oil press issue @.@. today i trial error bypassin the cooler,worse i got zero reading,got me come to suspect the pressure sender,checked wiring,checked sender resistance found good end up found out "sender pressure inlet port" (don know what to really callthatt) was choked with brownish soot(carbon i supposed,fyi my lude has been on jackstand for months n rarely fire it up).clean it up,enlarge the hole from 1mm dia to 3mm.

now im getting constant 14~16psi at idle,but still 45psi only at 3000rpm and there after til full throttle.izit normal?i see there are posting claim 80psi at wot.that got me wonder n heart hanging half way >.< really dont wanna get on the oil pump cos my garage isnt equipped to get job like that done yet.oh ya im using Nrg gauges(taiwan made imitation i guess) nrg usa website don even hv gauges selling

lostforawhile

it's not that bad to do the pump, but everyone thinks pump as soon as they get low oil pressure, if you have crud in the pressure sending hole, drop your pan and check the screen, it could be plugged, what is this stuff you are talking about?

minilogoguy18

You also have to consider that you're adding another path for oil to flow that with the diameter of the hose you will lose pressure. You should also increase the capacity from stock since the engine now has an increased volume since you're flowing to a cooler.

lostforawhile

right,but plenty of people have run coolers and not gotten this low of a pressure, increasing the oil capacity in the engine is always a good thing, more oil means cooler oil and less stress on the oil itself. the pump doesn't care how much oil sits in the pan, if you run a cooler, it's best to run a remote filter plate so you can use a remote filter with a larger capacity

Acidcrakker

45 psi at that RPM isnt that bad.

Vtec needs min 55psi to work and that is at 5200rpms

Apex1972

exactly!! i tried one of those same oil coolers that also had a filter re-locate adapter. well , after adding almost 8 quarts of royal purples finest, i started her up only to see the oil light on. the instructions stated that sometimes this will happen if you have the lines backwards coming from the sandwich plate adapter. I flipped them around and still had low pressure. i took that crap off and said to hell with it. my advice would be to do the same thing. they arent worth the headache and potential engine damage they can cause.

minilogoguy18

The engine just isn't designed to use a air to air heat exchanger to cool the oil, unless someone who has good oil pressure shows actual proof of it making a worthy difference in oil temp I wouldn't buy one.

This_thread_sucks_now

Billy, aka 71dsp, might have data on air/oil cooler efficacy. He runs his race-prepped Prelude at some speedy tracks in the heat found there in the south.

Depending on application you can just run a thicker oil to compensate for the temps turning your 0w-20 to the viscosity of water.

FYI

lostforawhile

a lot of people have run coolers without issue, I dont see why the problems, for one thing if you are running a cooler, you need a bypass type thermostat before the cooler, the oil needs to stay around 190 at least, if you start a cold engine and start trying to force oil through the cooler immediately, I could see that being an issue, I've run them on Hondas before and no issues either, the slight drop in oil pressure was solved by shimming the pressure bypass valve slightly, I havent got mine running yet, but I have a kintex aircraft cooler, and an oversize filter to increase overall oil capacity, you need to run at least -8 lines preferably -10, and you need to run full flow fittings and adapters, my setup is force air cooled, I have a bosch blower under the bumper which is thermostatically controlled, and I'm running a derale thermostat

lostforawhile

I've been doing some searching and a normal drop on a Honda with a cooler is at most 3 psi, if there is as much pressure drop as you say, something is wrong, or not hooked up right, can you provide some specific details on what you are running, cooler brand and type, sandwich adapter? thermostat in the setup? oil line sizes? I wonder if some of these sandwich adapters are causing a lot of drop? that's a pretty sharp path in there for the oil to take, I runa remote filter adapter, so the lines are straight in and out at the filter base, not nearly as much restriction

lostforawhile

you had something wrong, if it was hooked up right you should have only had a few psi drop

117

I have an old datalog of my car from TWS during a 100+ degree day (IIRC, it topped out at 105F). My car was NA, using a 25 row Mocal oil cooler, -12AN line, and a Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate. Oil temp peaked around 227F. I never encountered any problems with oil pressure, and I didn't run thicker oil. If the system is designed and plumbed properly, you shouldn't notice much drop in oil pressure. A friend of mine uses -10AN hose, and did not notice much more of a drop than I did. I used -12AN hose to ensure no issues with pressure loss.

lostforawhile

I hope my -8 lines aren't too small, I dont know if the older Honda engines have a different oil flow requirement then the dual overhead cam engines,going to be a son of a bitch to swap everything to -10 if needed